Fuel filter issues and other issues.. PTFarmer, Dieseltech

Good morning.

I am new to diesels so bare with me.

I have been working on a MF 255 with 4.236 Perkins lately. Finally got the Aux hydraulic system back together, changed all the filters, and all the fluids. Started the tractor for the first time last night since I started tearing it apart it in January.

I bled the fuel system according to the operators manual but while the tractor was running, I noticed a pretty good amount of diesel running down the line the goes from the injectors to the top of the fuel filter housing (Runs behind the fuel tank). Turns out the line has been rubbing on some sheet metal and looks to have a deep abrasion that COULD be leaking under pressure. i wasn't able to verify if the abrasion was the source of the leak.

Is there a way to fix repair a fuel line with one of the JB weld products or should I just try to get another line or make one up myself? This is the line with the banjo fitting for the fuel filter housing.

2nd issue... The new filter head that I purchased (spin on type) came with a super short banjo bolt. It doesn't even make it all the way through the OEM fitting. The original bolt has no hole in the side and this one does?? I am wondering why.. see photos. I started the tractor with the old bolt installed in the new filter head. Don't get why the old bolt doesn't have a hole in the side..


Last.. I think my Aux Hydraulic manifold/valve body needs to be rebuilt as it is still leaking. Is there a way to completely delete the Outlets, valve body, and lines, yet still take advantage of the large Hydraulic filter that is plumed into the valve body? In other words, I am looking to plumb the filter housing into the LH side plate with hose, and plug all the unused ports in the plate
I have no use for aux outlets right now and would rather not mess with the leaks. If I can have the valve body rebuilt in the future, i will. For now it is just a thorn in my side.

I would appreciate any suggestions. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, but not there yet.

Thanks!

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First, look CLOSELY at the original banjo bolt, it will have a small orifice hole on the side that may be plugged. It MUST be used in the system, it's there to bleed off any trapped air from the filter base top BEFORE it can get to the injection pump and cause engine shut down. The short bolt is just a bleed bolt. If you want to remove the complete auxiliary system, it can be done IF a hose or line is used to connect the two PTO shift cover elbow ports together.

You can get a new leak off line.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/35587344_Injector-Line-Leak-Off_171.htm

The banjo bolt with out the hole looks like a regular bolt that was cut to length. The center of it could be drilled out, then drill the crossway hole.

Does your tractor have the spool valves below the seat, or is it remotely mounted.

Thanks Dieseltech. I will take a look at the original Banjo bolt and see if there is a clogged hole. The only odd thing is before i tore into the fuel lines and filter, the tractor ran fine with that hole-less bolt installed in the original filter head with the filter and glass bowl. The original bolt is hollow....

The new bolt, as you can see, has a very large hole but just isn't long enough to be used with the new filter head and the banjo fitting. Is it just as simple as getting a new (longer) bolt with the proper hole? Was I given the wrong bolt with the new head assembly?

Any ideas on repairing the fuel line with the abrasion?

regarding the removal of the Aux Hydraulic valve body, maybe I can get you a photo of the side plate and you can suggest which ports need to be connected together while still using the large Hydraulic filter. If that makes sense... Maybe I should just remove the Large filter as well? Thoughts.

I really appreciate your assistance.. Now and in the past!!
Thanks again.

Hi PT. Not sure how I would get by without you guys!! Thanks. I don't believe the the Leak off line that you mentioned is my issue. The leaky line is #9 picture below (photo cut from a previous thread that you were helping me on)

I am not sure what you mean about the spool valves? My tractor has a factory valve body with 1 set of outlets coming out the back end and a large filter assembly mounted under the valve body. I would just assume remove the valve body and rear outlets while still using the large filter assembly. The problem (as I see it) is that I would have to re-plumb the filter to the side plate as it is currently plumbed through the valve body. Not sure exact how to do this...

Here is a link to my old thread when i initially started tearing into the aux hydraulics. Maybe you can use the photos in the thread to help.

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1342234

Sorry.. trying to explain this stuff the best i can..

Here are some more photos. The original banjo bolt does not have a clogged hole in the side but is hollow....I don't get it.

The other photos show how the aux hydraulics are plumbed. And the fuel line#9 That has a gouge.


Not sure why my photos are flipped. Sorry about that.

For the leak off line You can cut it, get some 3/16" rubber line used for diesel fuel to put over it with some clamps. The replacement leak off line if your tractor has the A4.236 engine the part number is 531993M92, for the AD4.236 engine the part number is 532031M93.

For the banjo bolt you can either try to drill the cross hole in it, or get the banjo bolt part number 731352M1 (Perkins part number 0095344)

Thank you PT...

Looks like the original bolt is just an M10 Banjo bolt. I am just wondering why in the heck mine has no hole. Unless it is clogged and is super hard to see.. I don't get it. I will probably just repair the line as you suggested. I tried to find a replacement line with that same part number and I didn't come up with anything.

Any thoughts on re-plumbing the Large Hydraulic filter and removing all the Original Aux stuff? That is my main concern right now as the Aux valve body is leaking pretty bad I just assume remove it and deal with it later.

I know these tractors came without rear outlets but am unsure if in that configuration they still had the large Hydraulic filer. Either way, I just need to get this thing up and running.

Let me know what you think I should do...

Thanks again..

Ok...so I took a real good look at the old banjo bolt again and found the the hole you were speaking of dieseltech. It is a pinhole. I was looking for something the size of what is seen on the new screw in the photos above. My mistake.

Can you explain more about connecting the two ports so I can delete the aux hydraulics? Can I still run the large hydraulic filter? Or does that need to be deleted as Well?

Thanks for your help.

(quoted from post at 13:17:32 03/01/18)
Ok...so I took a real good look at the old banjo bolt again and found the the hole you were speaking of dieseltech. It is a pinhole. I was looking for something the size of what is seen on the new screw in the photos above. My mistake.

Click to expand...

I would drill the pin hole out to the size of the one in the banjo bolt that is too short, it won't hurt anything.

I will do that. Thank you sir.

Anyone else? I could really use some help deleting the aux hydraulics. The jumper that Dieseltech suggested sounds fine, I am just not sure I am understanding it correctly. I would still like to use the hydraulic filter....just not sure if that is possible. I just want to bypass the valve body.

Is there something different with my hydraulic pump or internals that would not allow me just to plug the angle fittings on the left plate and remove everything?

Help please. I appreciate it.

The original banjo bolt has a center hole up to the head, and SHOULD have a small cross hole about .020-.030 inch in size. If the cross hole was forgotten there's a chance fuel seepage past the threads was just enough to let some air out of the filter base. Don't make the cross hole too large, it helps control fuel pressure on BOTH the supply and return side of the system. Both supply and return you'll notice both go to a filter base, CAV DPA pump has about 5 PSI at BOTH supply and return ends of the pump to keep the whole pump pressurized. If the bleed bolt cross hole is larger than it should be, supply pressure will drop drastically to the injection pump.

The jumper line just connects the two side cover fittings, filter is no longer used with the jumper line or hose.

Thank you dieseltech. Last question. The jumper hose seems simple enough to have made up. Could I not run a hose from the outlet on the on plate to the inlet on the filter and the from the outlet on the filter back to the plate on the side of the tractor? Or am I not understanding how the system works?

Sorry....obviously I am a novice with these things.

Thanks

You could keep the filter and run inlet/outlet hoses or lines to it. MF used to have a short J style steel line for the side cover fittings on some of the 100 series I remember seeing at the dealer I worked for. By the way, I found a filter banjo bleed bolt in my diesel test fittings, hole is .020 inch near as I can tell. A tag wire .018 inch just barely will go in the side hole. DON'T make it bigger, just make sure it's open. It can sometimes plug and drive a fellow nuts, when the air that's supposed to go out the banjo and back to the tank instead goes into the injection pump inlet, causing shut down. Went through that with my brother's 1105 years ago..

Thanks dieseltech. I really appreciate it. I am a bit stressed out about this hydraulic issue. After I removed all the gunk from the valve/manifold and took it off the tractor trying to fix the leaks, it is now worse. I just want to eliminate the dumb valve and outlets. Maybe I can find someone to rebuild it eventually or just get an aftermarket one.

*****To be honest, you guys are my only good source of information. If the guys on this forum weren't helping me, I would be SOL. .

I have unclogged the small hole on the banjo bolt and it now passes air. I will leave it alone.

As for the aux hydraulic filter. It has two ports, one coming out towards the front of the tractor, and one to the rear. Currently the rear port goes to the valve body and the front port to the side cover. If I eliminate the valve body should I just run a hose from the rear port on the filter to the open port on the side cover (where the valve body was connected) just want to make sure I do this right and don't burn up a pump or other high dollar part. Wife would kill me and I don't have money to keep throwing at this tractor. Front tires are completely shot and need to be replaced.

If there's a line from the filter base to the side cover, then the other filter fitting can be hooked to the other side cover line..

Awesome. Thanks for all the help!. That is what ibwill do for now. My next thread will ber about front tires!.

Thanks to both of you for be ing so helpful over the last few weeks. I appreciate it greatly.