MF 35 fuel lines question

I am wondering if anyone knows if the fuel lines on the MF 35 diesel tractor have flared ends? The lines from the heater reservoir going into the intake heater and the one from the reservoir to injection excess overflow T pipe?

I made a few new fuel lines with brake line of the same diameter and used new brass sleeves but I still have leaky fuel at my intake manifold heater and at the small fuel reservoir near the fuel tank. The female fitting at the T fitting for the leak off injector pipe is also leaking. It seams wherever I put a new brass sleeve on my new made fuel lines are the issue.

My brass sleeves don't seem to be sealing good.

My original fuel line going into my lift pump from my primary filter also leaks at the lift pump despite putting a new rubber olive. This pipe had an original rubber olive and I put a new one on but again leaks.

These are old photos to let you know what I'm asking about



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Brass sleeve fittings can be a royal pain in the arse to get sealed. Best chance is to loosen-tighten several times. Perkins went to the rubber line olives as they will seal better without needing to be so tight, but the Thermostart manifold heater NEEDS a brass sleeve. Never use rubber on the Thermostart supply line due to the heat it makes while in use.The line at the supply pump may just need tightened a bit.
 
Dieseltech,

Thanks very much,

I bought a bunch of rubber olives of the sizes of my lines and I will try them. Do I need to flare the ends of my new made up fuel lines? I was starting to wonder if the brake lines I used were not somewhat less of outer diameter compared to the original massey lines or the brass sleeves I bought were a hair too big and just did not compress enough to tighten up on the lines.
 
I tried a new rubber olive and replaced the original one when I was reassembling the lift pump lines. But the fuel line from the primary fuel filter to the lift pump continues to leak at the lift pump even with a new rubber olive.

I hate anything leaking which makes me wonder if I am dealing with a major pain with this old Massey 35. Everyone seems to just allow everything to seep or leak and not fix it.
 
The olives to me seem to be a little short. the tubing nuts will bottom out before the olives smash enough. What I do is take some extra olives, cut them about 1/8" long, put them on the line first then a uncut olive. You should be able to get them leak free without having the tubing nuts bottom out, but with the extra 1/8" olive the tubing nuts maybe a bit of a pain to get the threads started. While I've never tried it a 1/16" - 1/8" thick x with the id of the o-ring close to the id of the tubing maybe better/easier than cutting up a olive, or two.
 
(quoted from post at 21:52:50 02/22/18) The olives to me seem to be a little short. the tubing nuts will bottom out before the olives smash enough. What I do is take some extra olives, cut them about 1/8" long, put them on the line first then a uncut olive. You should be able to get them leak free without having the tubing nuts bottom out, but with the extra 1/8" olive the tubing nuts maybe a bit of a pain to get the threads started. While I've never tried it a 1/16" - 1/8" thick x with the id of the o-ring close to the id of the tubing maybe better/easier than cutting up a olive, or two.



I mean to the od of the tubing.
 
I changed the fitting and line on the Lift PUMP to a JIC ORB fitting..

NO more fuel leaks onto STARTER:

I have no pictures of the FUEL FILTER SIDE:

Bob...MF Fe 35 X
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(quoted from post at 09:45:48 02/24/18) I've ran a MF FE 35 X for the past 100 HRS with NO more FUEL leaking onto Starter:

JIC fitting:

Bob...
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Bob

I would like some more info on your JIC fitting fix and better style fuel lines.
Did you have the lines made? What length and size? So if I understand your fix correctly, instead of using steel lines with brass sleeves or rubber olives you are using 37 degree JIC male flare into the in and out of the lift pump.and also at the fuel shut off under the tank and the inlet for the Primary filter head? So no need to use 45 degree SAE and 37 degree JIC will seal??
 

Today I eliminated the fuel lines to the heater and that mini tank. What remains is the return line from injector bleed off to the filter banjo. I never had a wire going to my heater and the rebuilt motor starts at whatever temperature so I ended up ditching that mess of leaking lines. Its nice and clean now.
 

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