Massey 65 Alternator Wiring

fixt

Member
I have a Nippondenso model 8162 35 amp one wire alternator to use on my tractor when I get a bracket fabbed up. My question is about the wiring.

There is a switched line coming from the back of the alternator. Does this go to the oil pressure switch where the red wire is pictured ... tells the alternator to start charging when the engine is running?
Charge wire B+ to start solenoid?
Should the voltmeter positive come from battery or solenoid?

Photo shamelessly stolen from ptfarmer
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"I have a Nippondenso model 8162 35 amp one wire alternator"

The diagram is for a 3 wire alternator. If you have a one wire alternator, connect white wire to ammeter as in diagram. omit the red and blue wires at the alternator.

"There is a switched line coming from the back of the alternator. Does this go to the oil pressure switch where the red wire is pictured ... tells the alternator to start charging when the engine is running?" Switched output is from oil pressure switch to alternator, not from alternator to switch. On some one wire alternators you can connect this wire and not have to rev alternator to get it to charge. Depends on how alternator is constructed.

"Charge wire B+ to start solenoid?" black charge wire on diagram to post on start solenoid where big battery wire connects.

"Should the voltmeter positive come from battery or solenoid?" Neither. Volt meter + must connect to a switched source so it will turn off when engine is off, otherwise it will run the battery down.

Ammeter and volt meter are different. Which are you going to use? Ammeter connects as in the diagram. Volt meter negative to ground, positive to switched battery voltage. With volt meter, ammeter could be removed and both post connections tied together.

This diagram appears to be for a diesel since there is no ignition switch indicated. On this diagram, if there is a switched output on key starter switch, connect positive of voltmeter there, if not, connect to fuel gauge/alternator side of oil pressure switch. On a gasser connect to switch with wire going to ignition coil.
 
You are correct, the drawing is for a three wire. It's the closest drawing I could find.
Yes it is a diesel, forgot that little thing. 1964 model 65.

Here is my alternator. According to the data sheet, it turns on at 593 rpm with 8 amps at 1000 rpm to 30 amps at 2400 rpm. I guess I answered my own question about the sense wire if all this works as proclaimed. Crankshaft pulley size is about 7" and alternator pulley size is 2.75" so at 600 rpm idle I should be turning alternator at about 1500rpm and 10amps or so. at 2000 tractor rpm I should get about 20 amps, so it's not that far off from the original generator which was 12 amps.
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I did order a voltmeter but to simplify things I may go with the ammeter. It should seldom move which is why I toyed with the idea of a voltmeter. I'll go with the oil pressure switch connection if I decide to use the voltmeter. Thanks for that.

For the alternator 10 ga B+ charge wire, it goes straight to the batt cable connection at the start solenoid with the black and white 10 ga wire being one wire if using voltmeter, as pictured if using ammeter.

Will the switched live wire #2 pictured on the alternator be used as a "sense" to regulate the alternator output as needed?
I guess it would go to the oil pressure switch as well.

Thanks very much for your help sir. I do appreciate it.
 
Your instruction sheet is for a 3 wire alternator. I would wire it according to instructions.

"I may go with the ammeter. It should seldom move which is why I toyed with the idea of a voltmeter."
"For the alternator 10 ga B+ charge wire, it goes straight to the batt cable connection at the start solenoid" Connecting alternator output direct to start solenoid bypasses the ammeter and you will see no charge indication on it.

"Will the switched live wire #2 pictured on the alternator be used as a "sense" to regulate the alternator output as needed?" L (light) on your alternator should be to excite it to charge, I (ignition) should be to sense the charge level

Oil pressure switch should work for your switched output
 

I finally got the alternator mounted. I got hold of DBElectrical for a few questions on the 12180 one wire alternator, which is what I actually have. NOT those pictured above. The man tells me to just hook up the charge wire as the other two terminals on the back of the alternator are not even used by the internal rectifier/voltage regulator. He said most people plug those terminals with RTV to keep stuff out.

Pictures of the mounted alternator. It does have a little yaw to it but not bad. A 48" belt was a hair too big for when it stretched (and it will). A 47" was almost too tight to get on. I put it in the microwave for 20 seconds to heat it up and got it on. 4L470W is the belt it took

The yaw is not as bad as it looks in this one.
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I may decide to come back and wallow the two front holes out so I can drop the front a little bit. It may run a while like it is.
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The previous bracket (Out, out damned spot) with a gigantic alternator swaying from it and a belt that looked like a frayed rope. It was bad, trust me
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