Massey 255 questions

Need a bit of help as I am really considering buying my first tractor.

I am looking at a 1978 255. Unit has unknown hours but appears to be in good shape. Oddly enough, it doesn't have the rattle can paint job that you see on most older used tractors. I have looked at hundreds online over the last several months.

Can someone tell me what year Massey started putting wet discs in the 255? I confirmed that this tractor does have the larger 236ci engine and no multipower but am unsure of the brakes. Is there a way to tell if if has wet or dry just by looking at it? I have read that some "notches" in the rear end are a sign but not sure. Not sure where the notches would be located.

Tires are loaded on this particular tractor. Forgive me for being a greenhorn, but are loaded tires generally an indication that the tractor once had a FEL?

*****This tractor is 9 hours from me so I may have it shipped. What should I be leary of? It is being sold by a dealer with a reputation to uphold so I feel a bit better buying from a dealer than some guy on craigslist..

Any know issues with the 255? What else should I have this guy send me pics of. What are some known things to look for? I have video of it running and it seems smooth without smoke. T It appears the front wheels are moved way out. They are obviously adjustable, but I have no clue how hard it is to move them back in.

Thanks for the help.
 
It's not uncommon for tractors to have
tires that are filled. FEL or not. More
weight more traction in most situations.
Wet brakes can be identified by the
notches where the axles bolt to the
differential. Number of notches indicating
Number of brake discs.
 
(quoted from post at 21:29:47 01/08/18) It's not uncommon for tractors to have
tires that are filled. FEL or not. More
weight more traction in most situations.
Wet brakes can be identified by the
notches where the axles bolt to the
differential. Number of notches indicating
Number of brake discs.

Thanks....looks like the tractor I am looking at has 5 notches on the rear plates. I think I am going to pull the trigger on this one. Good price, seems like a solid unit.

Next question...where can I get good factory service, operators, and parts manuals? I will pay good money for the real manuals and not shortneed versions. Any ideas?
 
(quoted from post at 19:07:45 01/09/18) You can get them from AGCO also http://www.agcopubs.com/

Yep.... This is probably where I will go. i want the real thing and not an abridged version.

Cant wait to get my tractor. First think I plan on doing is changing all the fluids... everything... Problem is trying to figure out what oils I want to use where... seems as if my research indicates that Massy recommended a SAE 20 for the engine during winter and SAE 30 for summer. Anything wrong with the equivalent synthetics?

What about trans oil and final drives?

Hydraulic oil?

Anything to point me in the right direction would be great.

Thanks
 
There shouldn't be an issue with useing
synthetic oils. Synthetic oils do tend to
clean built up oil deposits and make seals
that leak a little with conventional oil
leak more with synthetic. Engines with
rope seals will leak with synthetic oils.
For the engine a good 15w-40 diesel oil
would work.
I'm not exactly sure what the transmission
on that tractor needs. It's probably a
universal tractor hydraulic transmission
fluid.
 
Personally I would wait until I got an operators manual before changing the fluids. So you known your getting fluids that meet spec. and how much you need to get.
 
here is what the axle will look like if it has wet brakes, with the notches. I have wet brakes on my MF 265 and 165. 255 is a good tractor. If you buy it, plenty folks here to help.
a253418.jpg
 

Thank you.....yes mine (I bought it and it will be shipped to me) does have the wet brakes.

I will have a ton of questions so I am hoping for some help here. I am trying to find a muffler that is shorter than the oem one. The garage I have for storage has a 7ft tall door. Even if I cut the stock one I wI'll be too tall.

Suggestions? I think the 255 has a 2 1/8 inlet ID. Probably need a round style that has a short inlet length and tall outlet length that I can cut and use a slip over pipe when I am running the tractor.
 
Trans,steering, hydraulics and differentials
use Agco Permatran
821 XL oil. This is the oil sold now that
replaced the MF Agco M 1127 and 1129 specs.
The Agco Permatran costs more than the
various universal oils sold that meet
Permatran 1127 and 1129 specs. For me, I
choose to pay more for Agco Permantran oils
and don't think about it afterwards. Drain
rear planetaries at axle also. On some 200
series tractors the rear axle planetaries
are connected to tranny oil, so if you fill
drain plugs on planetaries make sure to also
check if tranny levels not rising too. The
manuals don't tell you this. Tranny with wet
brakes takes 11 gal. Also clean strainer for
hydraulic that is at belly in the round cap.
Make sure you drain tranny from both plugs.
Replace hydraulic filter too. Engine oil me
and most guys I know use Shell Rotella 15
40. Don't forget air filters, outer and
inner. If inner is clean that's good sign.
Good luck.
 
Noticed typo above, obviously you fill planetaries from square fill plugs on each axle end not drain plugs...
 
(quoted from post at 07:57:31 01/13/18) Noticed typo above, obviously you fill planetaries from square fill plugs on each axle end not drain plugs...

Thanks for all the info. I have the operator manual, service manual, and parts manual ordered from AGCO.

So I do know that my tractor has wet brakes. How do I know if the planataries and trans share the same fluid? 11 gallons? How much is a 5 gallon pail of permatran going for?

For the perkins, I plan on using amsoil 5-40 with a perkins branded filter. I use amsoil in everything I own with an engine.
 
The manuals say 11 gal but when you drain
probably may only need 8 to 9 or so gal
hydraulic oil. If planetaries are connected
to tranny you don't need to add oil to
planetaries at the square NPT plugs, since
tranny oil fill and level connected. To
check this, when you slowly add oil to
planetary fill plug it won't overflow back
out fill plug hole but rather raise level in
tranny as seen on dipstick. My 265 is like
this. Also an Archive YT from the late MF
expert guru Big Dean discussed this in
detail, on Archives search "1 More 255?
Draining Final Drives". The manuals do not
explain this. You can get engine oil filter
from Agco or NAPA too.
 
Ok guys. Received my tractor today and I am happy yet have some concerning questions.

1) started the tractor and warmed it up. Seems to have a small fuel leak from the fuel pump (I assume gasket) on the side of the engine. Also appears to have a decent oil leak from the crank case dip stick tube. Could it be a o-ring?

2) tractor does not have multipower. After driving it around and warming it up I heard a constant low whinning noise from the trans/rear end. When I depress the clutch pedal all the way, the noise goes away completely. Let it out and it reappears. Thoughts on what this noise could be?

3) front wheels are adjusted very wide. Seems simple to bring them back in. Tractor seems to have a TON of camber. Top of tires are way out. Is this normal or a sign of work spindles?.

4) Want to change all the fluids. Anyone know the correct fuel filter (Glass bowl on bottom) for this tractor. It has the 4.236 perkins. What about the hydraulic filter?

I appreciate the help.
Thanks
 
Guys
..Can anyone get me headed in the right direction with the stuff I mentioned in my previous post? I would really appreciate it. The whining sound coming from the trans area when the clutch is out has me very concerned. I was told the tractor had a newer clutch. First thing I am thinking is the throw out bearing?

Thoughts. Please...
 
(quoted from post at 18:40:25 01/23/18) Ok guys. Received my tractor today and I am happy yet have some concerning questions.

1) started the tractor and warmed it up. Seems to have a small fuel leak from the fuel pump (I assume gasket) on the side of the engine. Also appears to have a decent oil leak from the crank case dip stick tube. Could it be a o-ring?

(Parts book shows a 1/8 X 3/8 X 5/32 washer, part # 731119M1.)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2) tractor does not have multipower. After driving it around and warming it up I heard a constant low whinning noise from the trans/rear end. When I depress the clutch pedal all the way, the noise goes away completely. Let it out and it reappears. Thoughts on what this noise could be?

(Does it make the noise when the transmission is in neutral, and you let the clutch out. The transmissions usually have a whine sound.)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
3) front wheels are adjusted very wide. Seems simple to bring them back in. Tractor seems to have a TON of camber. Top of tires are way out. Is this normal or a sign of work spindles?.

(You can bring them in, but they do tend to stick/won't move if they gave been in that position for sometime. They usually have some camber to them, if the spindles, or wheel bearings go bad they will go the other way. Get the front wheels off the ground, and make sure everything is good, nothing loose).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
4) Want to change all the fluids. Anyone know the correct fuel filter (Glass bowl on bottom) for this tractor. It has the 4.236 perkins. What about the hydraulic filter?

(Fuel filter(s) Wix WF8020, NAPA 608020, Baldwin BF844, FIL MF796, Donaldson P556287. Hydraulic filter MF 1870199M92. The hydraulic filter is accessed at the round cover where the pto engagement lever is. If the fluid isn't clear put new hydraulic fluid in it, if its a yellow color you can't see through, has water in it, also drain it before removing the side cover. Should take around 8 gallons to refill it).

I appreciate the help.
Thanks
 

Thank you PTFarmer.. I really appreciate the help!!!!!

I am still on the fence about what i am going to do with this tractor.. If it needs major work, it will have to get sent back to the seller or I will have to sell it locally for a loss.. I hope it doesn't.

To answer a few of your questions.

The noise... I didn't start it last night when I was out in the garage. Based on my initial tests, anytime the clutch is out (in neutral) it will whine. I don't believe it whines while in gear and moving... But I will have to confirm this. It is constant and sounds like the whine of cold hydraulics but that is not the case. It was nice and warm when I tested it.

This has me very concerned as I hope it is not some internal issue (input shaft, throw out bearing etc) that would be reason to split the tractor. I can't split a tractor here at the house and would have to take it to the local dealer. Wouldn't even want to know what that would cost. I was told by the selling dealer that it had the clutch replaced about two years ago.. That is all I know.


As far as the fuel filter is concerned, looks like it has a Perkins branded filter on it now. Can't tell the number can only read "Perkins" in faded blue on the white housing. Is there any way to get away from the glass bowl style fuel filter set up and convert it to something else? Glass bowl seems to be leaking but assuming a new filter comes with new o-rings maybe that problem will correct itself.

Last night I decided to bring the front wheels in. No issues at all. Got the front of the tractor up, removed necessary bolts, and slid everything inward. The only issue I am having is the left side tie rod toe adjustment nut (on the threaded steering shaft) wont budge. Obviously because I moved the wheels in, I need to shorten the steering geometry and this nut is the only way I see to do it. It is turned way out and obviously I need to bring it quite a ways back in. Do you think I need to use a pickle fork and split the ball joints to get this nut free?

Checked the spindles while the front was in the air. I guess it is a good sign when there is no movement in the spindles or hubs. That was a small win.

I welcome additional opinions and suggestions.
Thank you!!
 
I would not try to eliminate the glass
bowl on the filter assembly it allows you
to see if water has contaminated the fuel
system so it can be drained off before it
causes issues.
It's hard say about the whining with out
hearing for myself. If it doesn't get
worse under a load its probably nothing to
worry adout.
The throw out bearing would still make
noise in gear. If it changes as soon as
you start to put pressure on clutch pedal
than I'd suspect the throw out bearing.
 
My brothers 1965 MF150 that he used in 1975 had a whine to it. 2018 has the same whine, never had trans apart. I'm almost sure the 255 has straight cut gears like the older 150, etc, the straight cut gears always whine some.
 
On my 135 I replaced the fuel filter to a spin-on fuel filter, I got it off of ebay, but the guy doesn't have the filter base anymore. I think someone here did find the filter base elsewhere, but I don't remember where (maybe amazon). Here is the spin-on fuel filter that is a 100% complete bolt on replacement for the style you have on my 135 (the old filter is next to it).

9601.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 11:32:19 01/25/18) On my 135 I replaced the fuel filter to a spin-on fuel filter, I got it off of ebay, but the guy doesn't have the filter base anymore. I think someone here did find the filter base elsewhere, but I don't remember where (maybe amazon). Here is the spin-on fuel filter that is a 100% complete bolt on replacement for the style you have on my 135 (the old filter is next to it).

9601.jpg

Found it https://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/filter-assembly-sfa11-p-718.html I got mine from the same place, well worth the $.
 
Thanks PTFarmer.. so this is a plug and play install. Can the filter base accept other filters or is it specific to the delphi brand?
 
(quoted from post at 12:25:32 01/25/18) Thanks PTFarmer.. so this is a plug and play install. Can the filter base accept other filters or is it specific to the delphi brand?

Wix 33472, Napa 3472 (Napa, Wix same filters), Baldwin BF1225, or BF7921, Donaldson P550248, Fleetguard FS1251.
 

Thanks again. Well...The trans/clutch noise (along with several other items) have me concerned enough that I might be sending this tractor back. I am going to stop by a dealer tomorrow that has a similar tractor and compare it to mine for a point of reference. If the dealers tractor whines I will consider it normal. If not, I will surely be sending it back and probably taking an unavoidable loss on shipping IF the out of state dealer cooperates. I am hoping he does. Hindsight is 20/20. I should have never bought sight unseen.

I will keep you posted
I do appreciate all the help.
 
So....I still have the tractor. Changing all the fluids, filters ect. I have a replacement fuel lift pump and have ordered and received the spin on filter assembly that ptfarmer suggested. Have the fuel lines removed to/from the pump and filer housing. Looking at my old housing and old lift pump it appears both have rubber o-rings so the 1/4 inch flared hard lines seat properly. The new housing and pump did not come with o-rings. When I test fit a line and snug it down, the line will still spin.

Do I need to order o-rings? If so, I am thinking 3/8 OD. any suggestions. Lines don't seem to be seating right.

Thanks
 
The rubber "olives" sold these days some of them seem to be too short (the nut will bottom out on the threads, the line will be loose, and may seep fuel). What I have done is take some extra olives, and cut them around 1/8" long, put them one on first, and then put the regular olive on. That usually gets them tight, and the nut won't bottom out on the threads (that's the problem I've had on occasion).
 

Can someone tell me if the "olives" referred to above are grommets, o-rings, rubber bushings or ? I looked at the parts manual and I couldn't find a listing for them. I would think they are 3/8 but have no clue what to order. Any my help is appreciated..
 

Hey PT. Do you mind explaining the Olives a bit more. This is the first time I have messed with 1/4 inch fuel lines that required sleeves or Olives.

Any idea on the correct size for the 1/4 inch lines? Do the olives fit over the flange and then the nut comes down over the olive of does the flange seal against the olive as it is sitting in the pump or filter head? Does Massey have a part number for these?

I need to get the tractor back together.

Pulled the fuel tank off last night with intentions of cleaning it out and removing all the old fuel. Noticed The tractor has what appears to be a terrible valve cover leak. Topside of the engine valve cover (under the heat shields) was covered in a 1 inch thick layer of gunk. Ordered and new Valve cover gasket.

Anything else I should do while I have the top of the engine exposed? Other than de-gunk it..

Thanks!!
 
Any diesel injection shop should have them, use the id for the size. they usually call them olives (at least here where I am). They slip over the tube.
11271.jpg
 
I have the line olives on hand. Send me your address in an E-mail and I'll mail some. I sent an E-mail, buy my Yahoo account claims it didn't go through..
 

Thank you so much PT. That helps. Actually I was able to order the bigger sized ones from this site. I didn't see the smaller ones which I will need for the line that goes to the injectors up to the top of the fuel tank.

I ended up ordering the filter head you linked earlier in this thread. Started messing with it today and it came with a very short banjo bolt that doesnt work with the fitting on the tractor. I guess I can use the bolt from the old housing. Also, being new to diesels, how do I bleed that spin on filter head. There is no screw.

Thank you sir
 

Thanks dieseltech. As I mentioned in the thread above I ordered a pack of the larger ones from this site. Still need a few smaller ones.
I will send you a message with my contact info.

Thanks!
 

Sorry....I am full of questions. So my 255 has 2 batteries up front behind the grill. Is there any issues with converting the two battery system to a one battery and putting it in the space under the steering wheel? Mine has 2 850 CCA batteries. Can I run one 1000 instead?

Moving the battery would make it much easier to re-wire, access the power steering and clean the radiator.

Thoughts?

Thanks again.
 
The main thing is the gauge of the wire, most battery cables at most auto parts are 4 gauge. For heavy duty use I make them out of welding lead cable like 00 gauge. If your tractor has some good thick battery cables you can make new ones with them. I crimp, and solder the ends on, some heat shrink tube to go over the sections where the cable, and ends meet would also be good. Also use heat shrink tubing on all the wire ends.
 

Thanks!. I will probaably just buy a heavy cable. The negative is grounded with a mesh looking thing. Any suggestions on size of battery. I live in MI and it gets pretty cold here.
 
Measure the height, width, and length of the area where you want to mount the battery, the go to where ever you get your batteries from, and start measuring them.
 

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