MF35 Siezes After Warm up

Axtell

Member
Location
RDU, NC
We have a Perkins 23C diesel that freezes up after warm up. The engine was rebuilt a year earlier and ran like a champ. It out performed an
MF250 and JD 1530 after the rebuild. I was told it could pull a trailer of 125 bales of hay up hill in high gear without hesitation. I was asked to
change the oil in it and after doing so the engine locked up after about 5mins. I noticed a little white smoke coming from around the front of the
engine around where the breather tube outlet is after it locked up. About like cigarette smoke. I was involved in the rebuild which was a major
undertaking for me and was sick to my stomach when it locked up. The tractor sat all through the spring and summer as I had other obligations
and until recently out of curiosity I tried to turn it over again. To my surprise it did but you could hear metal on metal. I have pulled it back in the
shop to break it down again but thought I would post this to maybe see if anyone had any advice what to look for. I am hoping it could be
something I could inspect/repair without removing the engine again.
 
It could be several things. Oil pump not working. Rod Insert spun. etc. How long did it run after rebuild? What oil did you run? Don't think oil change had anything to do with it unless you didn't add new oil. Had a neighbor to do that. Didn't put drain plug back poured oil in ran on ground. He didn't see it.
 
First off it's not a Perkins 23C. If it's a 23C four cylinder that's built by Standard Motors. MF35 Perkins were three cylinder engines. Which one is yours?
 
(quoted from post at 11:43:59 12/17/17) First off it's not a Perkins 23C. If it's a 23C four cylinder that's built by Standard Motors. MF35 Perkins were three cylinder engines. Which one is yours?

Got me there. Sorry. 3.152
 
I'm interested in your findings, In 1984? I had a Perkins 3 cylinder in the shop.The Crankshaft THRUST WASHERS failed..... metal was contacting metal:
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Bought a MF 65 this summer with a stuck motor. Got it freed up pretty easily, ran it around for a few weeks and decided to do some rototilling with it because it was running great. After about 1/2 hour the motor took to rattling something fierce. Got it parked and towed it to the garage for tear down. It had spun # 4 rod bearing. $1000 plus later with a rebuild kit and new crank it is running great again.
 
It has been several years since I preformed a Total R/R on a Perkins....is there a Counter Bore on the FRONT BRG.CAP to accept the protrusion of the oil Pump?

Is a counter bore required in Brg.Cap?

The last pump I installed was an Original from England and the pump mounting flange did not break off:

Bob....Owner operator MF FE 35 X 3 cylinder Perkins:
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(quoted from post at 13:21:46 12/19/17) It has been several years since I preformed a Total R/R on a Perkins....is there a Counter Bore on the FRONT BRG.CAP to accept the protrusion of the oil Pump?

Is a counter bore required in Brg.Cap?

The last pump I installed was an Original from England and the pump mounting flange did not break off:

Bob....Owner operator MF FE 35 X 3 cylinder Perkins:

Hmmmm.... that is very interesting. I will check that out this morning and update. Thanks!
 

It was already broken all the way. I just sorta pushed them prices together for the photo. I assume that shaft is pressed in the housing? I was not the one who put the engine back together. I just mounted it back on the tractor. Here are the two pieces.


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(quoted from post at 11:41:27 12/20/17) It has been cracked like that for a while. That shaft is supposed to be a press in fit.

It has been sitting under the shed parked since March or April. Just getting around to it. I showed the oil pump to the folks that rebuilt it and they were at a loss of what happened. They just told me to bring the engine in so they can inspect and bearings and such and will look further into what happened with the oil pump.
 
Was Oil pump a new pump on last Engine Major?

Any I've replaced on an overhaul fit snugly but did NOT require a Hammer:

Bob...
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(quoted from post at 05:52:32 12/22/17) I wouldn't be surprised if its a aftermarket pump, some aftermarket parts just don't fit like they should.

I was wondering about that. There are three bolts that mount that pump in. You would think there would not be much room for error on the counter bore unless lose or too much play. The counter bore seems to be run out a bit. Not sure what came first.

Also it seemed the crankshaft gear was what stripped the idler gear, but it looks like that gear is wider and the idler gear and would not have left a channel dug out down the middle, but the oil pump gear itself fits right in. I was able to spin that gear with my fingers, but can't remember if I did that in both directions.
 
(quoted from post at 23:17:17 12/21/17) Was Oil pump a new pump on last Engine Major?

Any I've replaced on an overhaul fit snugly but did NOT require a Hammer:

Bob...

The oil pump should have been replaced on the last rebuild.
 
Just got back from the machine shop and it looks like the only casualty was the middle crank journal/bearing which most likely caused the seize and can be repaired. Everything else looks ok, but they did mention the middle piston had a sharp edge on one of the rings. I forgot to ask what may have caused that or what that means. The only thing they can think of going forward is to just replace the oil pump and put it back together. I guess we are lucky but will always wonder what could have cause it. I did mention the fitmemt of the oil pump shaft Into the counter bore in the main bearing cap.

Thanks for all the help!
Axtell
 

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