Oil Pan Gasket MF35

As I search through the archives I find several "answers" to this question: Should the oil pan gasket be put on dry or with some type of gasket sealer?

I will be putting the MF35 back together shortly and would like to do the job just once. I have read that some people swear by RTV and others swear at it. So I am looking for a bit of help.

Also what are the torque specs for the 18 oil pan bolts?
 
I use #2 Permatex with light coat on pan to hold gasket in place. #2 will not get hard
like #1 so when you remove later the gasket will come off better. I use #2 on all
gaskets--water pump--thermostat etc.
 
Hello, The front and rear cork strips are a fiddly job more
than anything. A coating of a silicone adhesive/sealer is
advisable to hold the side gaskets in place applied to the
underside of the block. The cork strips can be inserted into
the groove using a long small flat screwdriver. Turn the
crankshaft for better access to the rear. The biggest
problem is keeping the ends of the corks in place as they
will try to remove themselves. I always apply sealer to the
end of the corks before fitting and then when fitted further
sealer to the ends and area of the gasket where the sump
(oil pan) makes contact. Due to the studs at the front the
easiest way to fit the sump is to use a trolley jack so that
the sump can be raised equally. When you have a gap of about
1/2" you should be able to fit two bolts in the front and
rear and pull it up carefully. Don't forget the two long
bolts at the rear. As to torque, around 25lb.ft is the
figure for 5/16" AF bolts. I would aim for around 20 lb.ft.
Have never used a torque wrench on these.
DavidP, South Wales
 
if memory serves me right there is a funky little bend at the front of the oil pan. be sure the gasket fits right. after i got mine back together a small leak developed at the front of pan. not enough to cause a problem but irritating nonetheless.
 

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