perkins 152 diesel inframe rebuild

i'm thinking about doing a inframe rebuild of perkins 152 3 cylinder diesel. assuming I get the old liners out, and the new liners in the block with no damage, do the liners need any additional work? I guess my question is if I buy quality liner / piston kit, do the liners have necessary clearance for the pistons once installed in the block? thanks for the help.
 
They shouldn't need anything else. You can take the new piston, put just a little oil on it (don't put the rings on it) put it in the cylinder, and move it up, and down to see if there is a tight spot in it. Unless the block got hurt somehow, or if you feel like you may have fudged a sleeve when you put it in. Plenty of good videos on youtube on putting sleeves in, but not this way (makes me cringe) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tnepmr8mVvE
 
Quote: Perkins 152 diesel in frame rebuild:

Sure hope this turns out well for you......

Seen and In-FRAME were the owner never used a MICRIOMETER on the Crank Journals..low oil pressure at 180 Deg.Thermostat..15-40 oil.....Engine oil psi <20 psi:

With in 100 HRS of operating rear Crank OIL SEAL leaked.......Dual Clutch pack was soaked:

Engine block was not soaked......casting Core plugs leaked....

Engine was a Perkins A3.152.......

Bob....

Owner Operator.......MF FE 35 X Perkins A3.152
 
I would not waste my time and good parts on an in frame on any tractor. Too many chances for bad results. We rebuild lots of engines, but we do not do in frames period.
 
I would never do the in frame again, did it once to my 205 industrial which has the same engine and oil pressure never was good even though crankshaft rods miked up ok. you cant get at the mains to mike them. Ended up pulling the engine a few years later and having the crank ground but didn't change the sleeves or pistons because it only had a few hundred hours since in frame. Now oil pressure is 60 + PSI. As to new pistons and rings I have done a few tractor engines and never had to do anything to them. Buy the complete kit from a reputable seller and you will be happy.
 
These guys all have good points. I don't care if its got a loader on there, if it needs an engine rebuild, it needs the rear bearing and seal, which is accessible from behind the flywheel- and a clutch might as well get replaced while it is down- and down that far. THEN you will have 20 or 30 years till you do it again. Do it 'half fast' as an in frame job is.... you will be back into it before you know it... not for the parts you just replaced, but for one of the parts you DID NOT replace.... the difference is a matter of time, not so much money...
 
I've always pulled the engine, it's not that much more work, plus you can't do the rear main bearing/rear main seal. The few in-frames I've seen done were on engines where they had to have whatever it was in to be up, and running asap because a re-man engine would have taken longer to get.
 

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