Milky looking Hydraulic fluid

dlinmi

Member
I noticed while hooking up my 3pt log splitter that the hydraulic fluid that seeped out around the coupler while trying to connect the lines to the auxilary connections was milky looking. Which I assume indicates water contamination? I'm assuming that it was the splitter but I'm not sure. How might it have got water in? Actually how could it have gotten in the splitter lines? What is the best coarse to replace fluid? Obviously drain my gearcase, but how do I flush out the cylinder for the splitter? By the way, is there a trick to connecting the hoses? I always struggle to get them connected.
 
Make Model of Tractor?

Possibly I'm the only on who couples the remote line with the Engine not operating, and the pressure bleed off.

Bob...
 
a lot of hyd oil is kind of yellow let it sit a few days and the water will sink to the bottom loosen drain plug and see if water comes out
 
Water likes to get into the transmission/hydraulic fluid through the top link of the 3 point, it should have a rubber boot to seal it. It also could be getting water in it from around the shifters on the transmission, they should have rubber boots on them to keep water out. If it has been getting warm then cold quickly on a regular basis it could be condensation. The fluid could have been in there for awhile also, and it probably needs to be changed.
 
I've had it for 10 years and the fluid has never been changed, I can't recall if there are boots around the shifters or not, I'll check into that. And I'll also check the third arm. My first thought was that the oil and water would seperate and I could drain out the water, but I haven't ran it in weeks and when I pulled the dipstick it looked "milky" or "foggy", definately doesn't look right. I'll try to fix the boot issues, or at least change out the fluid and keep it covered for now, thanks.
 
I've had it for 10 years and the fluid has never been changed, I can't recall if there are boots around the shifters or not, I'll check into that. And I'll also check the third arm. My first thought was that the oil and water would seperate and I could drain out the water, but I haven't ran it in weeks and when I pulled the dipstick it looked "milky" or "foggy", definately doesn't look right. I'll try to fix the boot issues, or at least change out the fluid and keep it covered for now, thanks.
 
I recently bought a MF231 diesel. My hydraulic/transmission oil was also like skim milk.

It cost me $100.00 to change it (about 10 gallons for my model). I chose Wal-Mart Super Tech tractor oil which is listed as equal to M-F Permatran III, the recommended oil. You can get by with oil from Tractor Supply for less. When you drain the oil, remove the filter and clean it. Replace if damaged.

If your shift lever boots are cracked or missing, Ebay has them cheap. I replaced mine for about $10.00, free shipping.

My tractor stores indoors. If you store outdoors, you might want to consider a heavy plastic cover over the rear half of the machine to keep the hydraulics dry.
 

Water gets into your cases in the form of vapor in the air through the vent and various points that are not air tight. Have you ever had condensation form on the exterior of your tractor's cast iron? Well, it is forming on the inside at the same time. This has been going on since the first tractor was built. As soon as the tractor goes to work and the oil gets hot the moisture evaporates. The solution to the milky oil is to work your tractor, or change the oil at least twice a year. Modern UTF holds the moisture in. It doesn't separate and go to the bottom.
 

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