MF 65 Oil Bath Air Filter

Bonnan

Member
My filter is badly in need of refurbishing. After ~60 years the metal sponge material is very dirty and compressed/compacted. The housing was not designed to be taken apart.
I have my ideas but was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the material and if so how and with what material?
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Try soaking in in a bucket of gas for awhile first. May take a few tries but soaking and shaking it will loosen a lot of the dirt inside. Messy job, but I've saved some before like that.
 
I used kerosene to clean mine, less fumes to ignite and did a great job. Soaked overnight and drip dried for a day, and was good to go.
 
I cut mine in half and put new mesh in it, then put a sheet metal band around it with big hose clamps then added some sheet metal screws so it couldn't come apart. It takes more than one of the replacement mesh packs, Probably 3 if I remember right.
 
I also used kerosene to clean my oil bath filter tower,
I put the filter tower in a 5 gallon bucket, filler with kerosene to cover the filter and let it set for 24 hours,

then I poured fresh kerosene through the filter until the outflow kerosene ran clear,

it took a while and 5 gallons of kerosene,
then set the filter canister on a wood wagon bed and let it drip dry for another 24 hours, until I could no longer shake any kerosene out of the filter canister,

installed air filter canister, filled cup with oil and fired up the old tractor,
it may just be me wanting improvement after all that work, but I think it ran better after the air filter canister cleaning.

you will be surprised at how much dirty kerosene comes out of that filter,
1957 model TO35 and to my knowledge the canister tower had never been cleaned, always kept the oil cup changed, but never touched the tower.

may take awhile, but if you cannot get the filter material stuffed back into the canister, you are up a creek.

This method worked and was not really a problem, just took awhile,
probably needs to be done ever 5 years or so, not wait 55 years,
 
Yea Phil that is what I was looking for. It is either cutting it in two or maybe grinding the "staked" rim from the bottom. But cutting/banding is probably simpler.
It is way past time to replace this mesh as it is compressed to about half volume and flops up and down. I'm embarrassed that I let it go so long. Also appreciate the tip for needing three new packs of mesh.
Jim B
 
Mine was so badly filled with crud I couldn't get it out. Tried everything, even burning it out, was also in poor condition like someone had tried to ramrod it out. I'm happy with my results.
 
If I remember right there are 3 or 4 spot welds at the bottom center that I ground off with a Dremel tool. Try to wrap something around it and make a line with felt tip marker so you can cut it square, also match mark it. Then I used a 4 inch side grinder with the real thin cut off discs.
 
I placed the air cleaner assembly from my JD 520 as well as my TEA-20 Ferguson, and MF FE 35 X in a bucket of kerosene, added a 1/4" steel line into the bucket. Turned on the air, boiled the kerosene with air for eight hours. Rinsed the air clears with gasoline .


Bob.....
 
$8 a gallon?? What part of Canada you live in? wait, even Canada don't have the @#$% to charge that much for kerosene.. and I need about 200 gallons thru the winter to mix with the home heating oil... wow. For that price... I'd HAVE to stay in Oklahoma all winter....
Like Phil's suggestion, I saw one of these a guy ground off the spot welds, pulled the mesh out, cleaned it, then put it all back and jut crimp where the spot welds use to be. I haven't needed to do that yet, but it's another option. I believe the YT online shop here carries the new mesh.
 

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