MF40 Alternator, Front Crank Seal

burgs

Member
Hi
I have just bought a MF40 serial #MF 865195, Frontend Loader #MF40 Z 2780 Z, Backhoe #MF40 Z 2129 Z.
Year unknown 1970 somewhere?
It runs, backhoe and bucket appear to work OK but before I can try it out there are a few things to fix.
The main items are,:-
Alternator is laying at an odd angle and looks too big to be straightened out, or it simply has the wrong mounting bracket? Hard to see due to the FEL arms.
Front crankshaft seal, there was a big pool of oil on the truck tray when we got home and there was no oil on the engine dipstick, looking at the front crankshaft/pulley/pump drive the crankshaft seal appears to be the problem.
I assume that the radiator cowl has to be removed along with the front axle to allow access to the seal?
Apart from these problems, as well lots of rust, old hoses, engine breathing a bit hard, hard to start, needs a puff of Aerostart to get going it is basically ok.
I worked on similar MF industrial tractors in an underground mine back in the early 70 to 80s, these were modified to run backwards with a bucket fitted on the big wheel end they were Manufactured by Domino in Australia and called Mini Miners, so I am familiar with the main bits.
Any help or advise greatly appreciated.
Best Regards
Burgs [/img][/list]
 
To replace the front seal is a big job, you are going to have to remove the hood, un hook the radiator hoses, if it has a front mount pump the 3, or 4 bolts that hold the plate to the crankshaft pulley are going to need to removed. Then you need to support the engine from underneath, and remove the 6 bolts that hold the front axle/support to the engine, you need to support the front axle/support then roll the front axle/support/wheels forward enough so you can remove the bolt holding the front pulley to the crankshaft. The you have to pull the front pulley off so you can get to the seal to replace it, then put it all back together.
 
This picture will give you one idea on how to do it, the picture shows the "split" at the bell housing instead of at the front of the engine (the MF should be similar).
5667.jpg
 
Hi
You have confirmed my worst thoughts!
Is it best to also remove the FEL?
I may as well do the engine if I am at this stage.
After more cleaning I found the alternator bracket is definitely wrong, at least I will have a clearer shot at fixing it.
Also found the header tank for the power steering hanging around loose, looks like an after market item (plastic).
Left hand steer cylinder rod is past it, no chrome left, I will check both and if not too bad I might make up a new rod and piston on one and fit new seals.
The steering pump maybe another issue if it ran without oil.
When I restart I will have to reset the hydraulic relief valves as they where stalling the engine too easily.
Burgs
 
hi
I might have to attach slightly different, it looks like I ma=ight have to drop the bucket and arms off outside my shed, then drive the tractor inside, only problem I can see might be the weight on the rear but if the backhoe is tucked up it should be ok, looks like a lot of weight in the front anyhow.
Burgs
 
That looks like what I need to do.
Checked the alternator today and it is a bodged up job, looks to me like the tractor would have had a generator originally.
The steering arm had made contact with the alternator and pushed it out of alignment and looking at the vee belt it had worked like this for some time.
I have seen photos of other MF40 with FEL and they have alternators so it is possible, I guess just I have just got to find a compact design.
The alternator I have on my TEA is about the same sizes as the one that was fitted to the MF40?
Burgs
 
This is from the North America parts book on the MF40 industrial (they don't show a generator for it) 3.152 Perkins gas, and diesel engine.

1038180M91 Alternator
512949M1 Bracket, Alternator
512948M1 Bracket, Alternator
517505M2 Strap, Adjusting

If you have the Perkins 3.152 here's how my brother did the one on his, he doesn't have a power steering pump, but this may give you an idea on how to mount it.
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1293659&highlight=alternator+bracket
 
Hi PT
Haven't been able to work out how to post photos yet, but it is a real tight fit for an alternator.
It took a lot of juggling just to get the alternator out, after removing the bolts.
I tried raising the alternator up higher which was a bit better but then there is no room for adjustment, the steering pump is definitely in the way, along with loader frame, and if I move it outwards the steering arm hits it.
I will try the parts list you have sent and see what happens from there.
My workshop manual should come today, it may shed some light on the parts as well, I still need to locate a parts manual though.
Thanks
Burgs
 
PT that's a good idea, but I may have lucked out as I have located 4 x MF40s in a wreckers yard, they are checking to see if they still have the parts I require.
I spent a bit of time on the net looking for photos of MF40 TLB and they all appear to have alternators, so they fit in there somehow.
Might crank it up and lift the bucket, set the safety struts in place and have a better look.
I have sort of narrowed the year down to late 1974 or early 1975, not sure how the serial numbers were worked out, were they different depending where they where they were manufactured/sold.
Also there is a bit of confusion of the FEL model numbers I note some people have listed the 4 bar FEL as a 34 and others as a 32?
I am thinking that the 4 bar is a 34?
Regards
Burgs
 
Hi PT
Got a chance to do a bit more today, first job was to confirm where the oil was leaking from.
Drained the remaining engine oil about 1/2 a gallon, refilled with a cheap 15/40 oil, fired the engine up and ran till warmed up, no engine leaks from front seal :D
Found power steer hose/tube to cylinder lh side was cracked, power steer pump US as filled with water and emulsified oil, reprimed put no flow.
The engine is not blowing past the rings near as bad as before and also now starts quicker.
Engine exhaust at idle is blowing a lot of black smoke, and under acceleration as well as at high idle, too much fuel through out the range, not sure what to think here?
No blue or white smoke that makes me think compression is sort of ok and injectors ok maybe, and then the fuel pump is pumping too much fuel?
I used to have to tune the Mini Myners up to pass the gas test in the past and I used to de-rate the injector pumps so they would pass the testing agents test, then as soon as they were out of site. rerate them so we could get the machines to climb out of the coal mine :oops: they would blow a lot of smoke and oil the scrubber tanks up then.
Anyhow looks like I don't have to strip down to replace the crankshaft front seal at this stage.
Regards
Burgs
 
Hi PTF
With lift arms up out of the way plus the hood off I was able to gain access for a better view of the room to fit the alternator that came with the tractor, made up a new mount and fitted, still a tight fit though.
Had to grind some material off the alternator housing to allow belt to be fitted.
Alternator is charging but not convinced it is doing so correctly, the whole wiring needs a lot of attention.
The spare belt that was tied in place is out of shape and will have to be replaced.
Burgs
6416.jpg
 
Hi
Tidied up the wiring, fitted a new fuse panel, removed/replaced all bare wires, fitted new warning lights, old ones had fallen apart.
Started up and still have to rev engine over 1500 Rev/min before it starts to charge, once charging it will hold 14.42 volts at idle and with lights on as well.
The new alternator light is a LED and I was wondering if I need to fit a resistor?
Engine oil pressure light turns off before engine starts so oil pressure is looking good, still need to fit the test gauge.

Best Regards
Burgs
 

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