mf 35 braking

HELLO ALL, I have a mf 35 I recently bought, I felt it had poor braking ability (could not lock up wheels).
so I removed the wheels for an inspection I found the axle seals to be leaking and shoes had oil on them.
so I removed the axles ,replaced the seals inner and outer , put new shoes and return springs on.
set up the shoe to lining adjustment and tested tractor.
braking seems a little better can lock up left wheel but the right wheel will not lock up no matter how I adjust it. Any help would be appreciated.
another question is about a device on the rt lower dash it's a switch that goes up and down it say's multi power and has a high and low marks it also say's shift to high for engine braking on it, does any one know what this is for? the linkage go to a shaft that runs into the top of the bell housing. Thanks
p.s. I would post pictures but don't know how.

Tractors with Multi-Power have twelve forward, four reverse speeds doubling the six and two main gears. MP lever can be shifted to high or low with tractor moving without using the clutch. High is needed for engine braking downhill, low will allow tractor to coast freely.

Thanks for the reply, can you explain how it operates

Hello,
Perhaps Dieseltech will explain the Multi-power system to you. Regarding the brakes the chances are that the cams on the end of the brake shafts are worn. This is at the point where the shoes make contact with the shafts. If when you have applied the brakes the arms at the inner end of the shafts are leaning forward this is a sure sign of cam wear. You will need to remove the drums and shoes and examine the cams. You will almost certainly find a wear depression from the shoes. The cams can be ground using a small angle grinder and the surface built back to the unworn thickness using a welder and angle grinder. A few over standard thickness is OK. If you build up too much you will not be able to refit the drums. You will need to remove the pins at the rear of the brake rods so that you can build up the underside as well. Square the end of the shaft off so that the retainer plate can be fitted. Disconnect the brake rods at the front and free the clevises and locknuts. With the rods still removed adjust each wheel so that the drums are just locked. Tie the both pedals in the 'UP' position using a piece of rope to the steering wheel. Fit the rods to the rear first. Adjust the clevises so that you can just fit the front pins. Fit new split pins. Slacken each adjuster so that you can turn the wheel freely. Remove the rope. Refit the wheels and test the brakes on a concrete or tarmac surface. With the pedals latched together carry out any fine adjustment so that the brakes are balanced. Of the 20 or so that I have done over the years they have never failed to stop as we would say on this side of the pond 'on a sixpence' or for you it would probably be a dime. Let us know how you get on.

DavidP, South Wales

The MP transmission uses a jaw one way clutch for low range, and an oil pressurized three disc clutch to apply high range. It's a handy feature to have IF it's working correctly. Usually the high side stops working with burned clutch discs when the oil level is low during use. Does not hurt to have the hydraulic/rear end oil one gallon over full. I've never seen the low side fail, and tractor can be used if high does not work. Just make sure the brakes work right as in low tractor will free wheel down hill, high MP is needed for engine braking. Correctly working MP also has a "hill hold" feature that's handy too. Say you are driving up hill, want to stop for a bit, then go on up hill. With the MP in High range and the clutch pedal down through the FIRST stage only, the tractor will not roll backward, long as the SECOND clutch stage is still running the hydraulic pump and PTO drive. That's why when the main transmission is being shifted the MP should be in low range. Far as the brake shafts, David is spot on where the shoes contact the shafts, build up repair may be needed. Or you could do what I did with my TO-35D three years ago when I repaired the oil leaks on my brakes. While both sides were apart I swapped the brake shafts and plates side to side so the unworn shaft contact area came into play with the shoes. Now they work like new again..

Can I just add a 'non-technical' comment to dieseltech's explanation? I had 'multi-power' on a MF 550. Grand (and useful) if you farm on the flat, but if you farm on hilly ground like I did it's basically bloody dangerous! Turn downhill without thinking what you are doing and with the lever in 'low' and you're off - no engine braking! Make sure that if anyone else jumps onto the tractor, they know about it! Multi-power tractors should come with a health warning!

thanks for all the reply's I will give that adjustment procedure a try.