MF180 DUAL AUX HYDRAULIC CONTROL VALVE

I need help understanding the connections for the auxillary control valve which controls the remotes on my 180. I need to replace (or repair) the valve and want to be sure I understand what's needed before I start. The picture shows the valve looking from the right front; as installed the handles are to the right and below the seat and the control valve is under the seat.
Question: Are the VALVE lines labeled 2 (which are connected to the left side of the valve assembly) the INLET and OUTLET valves? If so, which is the INLET?
Question: What is the purpose of the BLEED Line #3? The potential replacement valves (Prince and NorTrac) I have looked at have no such lines.
Has anyone replaced this valve? If so, what brand and model did you replace it with? How about a rebuild kit; is there one available?
This and any other info you can provide will be much appreciated as I am not much of a mechanic. THANKS.

My local dealer told me on mine that they can rebuild it. Says that it doesn't need to be done too often but can happen. What is the issue with your valve?

I would guess bleed line 3 just allows any potential air from an implement, etc back into the top of the case and out.

Thanks for the reply. I use the remotes to operate my Kelley front end loader. One set of remotes used to work the lift cylinders is fine. Second set used for the tilt cylinder is not really working at all; at most I'm getting about 10 degrees tilt movement even with no load. I have ruled out having a cylinder problem by temporarily switching the tilt and lift control lines which gives the same results, little tilt control.
Had same problem about 100 hours back and a local tractor mechanic did some work on the internal valve pistons (honing I think, definitely not a rebuild). He thought the piston was letting some fluid bypass so that it was essentially being locked in place. Afterwards, the loader worked ok until I hauled some 2000# bales of hay recently.
I don't think a dealer repair is feasible for me. The last time I had my tractor hauled out for repair it cost $150 and another $150 for return. That plus the parts and labor just make that option too expensive, surely over $500 total. It may be feasible to remove the valve assembly and take it in for repair; I will have to check on that. Anyway, I can buy a new dual control valve for about $160. I figure new fittings and lines (cause new control valve isn't configured same as old) will run another $50-$100 for about $210-$260 total. But then of course a cheaper repair which doesn't fix the problem or doesn't last is no good at all. So, I'm trying to gather as much info as possible before making a decision.

There is a mistake in my previous response. When I switch the hydraulic lines for the lift with those for the tilt (switching lines at the remotes) the tilt then works ok so the tilt cylinder is good. But lift doesn't work. So the problem has to be in the control valve.

The remote valve you have now is connected to the auxiliary hydraulic pump in the tractor and the remote hydraulics are completely independent from the 3 point hitch. Are you sure the new valve you are looking at replaces this valve, or is it the type that mounts on the right front corner of the top cover and gets its pressure from the main pump. I think the platform on a 180 will interfere with mounting that type of valve.