Left break lever

MF 250 wet brakes. what is the best way to remove the left brake lever. I think they are rusted up and causing my breaks to lock up. I removed the right one. cleaned it up and installed a zerk fitting. that seams to have un seized the breaks. the tractor now skids to a halt about two feet on the smooth yard grass. it still makes a loud squealing noise when I apply the breaks in first gear and low range. I think the parking break may need some attention also. It dose not lay flat against the housing as I think it should.I haven't tried to adjust them yet how the book says to do it. I need to clean up the other one first im guessing. their seams to be a hydraulic central unit ( for lack of a better term or proper name) in the way. It is bolted with three bolts to a support that stands vertical at my left heal and it has a knob or two attached to the structure that the seat is mounted to. I don't know any thing about it as I have no attachments that use the hydraulic hose connections on the tractor. I've changed all the fluids cleaned the screen filter replaced the fuel filters and the fuel lift pump. however the right break lever housing broke when trying to remove the right brake lever, and the diff petal is still attached to it sitting on the shed floor. never used it yet reckon I don't really need it. It didn't work any way and might be part of the problem. any info would be helpful as I have not found reference to brake lever removal in the shop manual or the operator's manual.

Hi,
The workshop manual would just tell you to remove the brake arm pivot pin. It however neglects to tell you what to do if it is seized. There is no easy way other than to remove the outer brake housing and holding it in a vice work a penetrating oil into the pivot pin area. Be patient as it is easy to break one of the lugs that the pin goes through. The brakes on the 200 series particularly the 250 have always been prone to seizing up if not lubricated regularly. Fitting a grease nipple is a very good idea.
From your description the valve assembly that you speak of is the auxillary remote valve. Pipe/s exiting this valve will carry oil to the connection for a tipping trailer or front end loader for example. It is a valuable asset if you can make use of it. The oil for this valve assembly is normally supplied by the aux pump located inside the transmission housing.
DavidP, South Wales

thank you David P. of South Wales,
I wasn't clear with my questions so Ill try to do better this time. do I half to take off the tire and fender, which ain't so bad. But the auxiliary remote valve, it looks kinda complicated. do I need or half to remove it also. it looks like a booger to get back together if I do it wrong. I have no air tools and only hand tools and a good breaker bar that I use on the tires. Its taken me 4 months to get the other side done. (Thats a long story). Im not sure I will half to but I think I need to. Without experience I don't know if there's a easier or shorter way to see if the brake lever will come off without removing a bunch of stuff, I have spent countless hours researching to find out and cant find much on it. I've been without it for 4 months and I was so glad to use it to move the roll of hay into the animals. Its hard to move those rolls without a tractor but it is possible. I am going to try and adjust the brakes thursday and then bush hog about 1 1/2 acres to see how it will do. I really need to get one pasture planted in rye grass for the winter. If it hangs up on the left side I'll fix that side up with a zerk fitting after cleaning up the rust. if both hang up I'm throwing in the towel and gonna send it to the tractor shop. the left lever dose move at this point just not as much as I would like. Im going to make a place for the tractor under the barn to keep it out of the weather this week.

If you remove the aux valve either make a sketch of which pipe goes where or take photos so that there will be no error in refitment. If you want to leave the valve off you will need to fit a 'U' bend hose to the two ports on the side cover. Oil is pumped out through one and back to the transmission via the other. Removing the mudguard (fender) and wheel will make life a lot easier especially if you have to do any further work such as accessing the brake discs etc. If you are not familiar with removing rear tractor tyres make sure that there is no water ballast in the tyre. Place the valve at the 6 o'clock position and remove the valve. What comes out will tell you if there is water installed. The tyres are heavy so it is advisable to seek assistance for removal. make sure that the tractor is securely supported on axle stands or large wooden blocks. When the linkage is free the amount of movement will depend on how far the disc adjusting nut is done up. Compare the rod protrusion through the nut on both sides. Unlatch the brake pedals and press them simultaneously by hand and observe the pedal position. One may be higher than the other. Ideally you should have one to two inches of free travel before pressure occurs. If you have this you should have reasonably balanced brakes. Look for wear in the brake rods and any sticking of the round bushing on the actuator brake rod which may hold the brake on. There are springs at the rear of the brake rods but they may not work if there is tightness in the linkage.
Let us know what you find.
DavidP, South Wales

for now I'll put the project on hold because of the coming hurricane, or two.