Need exploded diagram or manual for MF 723 post hole digger

trains

Member
Hi chaps.
I am after an exploded diagram for the early Fergy post hole digger with the wide gearbox, and 2 loose side lifting arms.

There is no Id plate but the 4 holes and mark shows that it did once have one :( .
Pretty sure its the MF 723.

Thanks

Trains
 

This model ?

39928.jpg


If it is I might be able to help.
 

Hi Charles.
Thanks for replying, yes that's the one.

Can you still get the input and output shaft seals for these.?
Local agco chap said to bring the old ones in, and they will match them up.
Am hesitant to do this in case they cant get them.

Am also on the lookout for a replacement pto shaft.
It was missing the male section with the spring loaded protection clutch. Is it 1" x 15/16" ?
Or if to replace the entire shaft, what is its measurements from closed to fully extended.

Thus, you see why I was looking for some drawings, or a parts manual for these details.

Thanks again.

Trains
 

I recently rebuilt the gearbox of one of these . They are very simple and will not give you any grief at all .
Yes the seal , both input and output are readily available at bearing shops , they cost about $20 Aus d each straight off the shelf . I was surprised as they are quite large and unusual looking things . The bronze bushes wear and score , you can dress these up a little with emery and fill the box with runny grease instead of oil to keep leakage down to a minimum . The original shaft didn't have a clutch , some owners fitted the one off the potato spinner that used the same gearbox . I have two of these post holers , neither has a clutch .
These photos might help , I can take others if you'd like .
39940.jpg
39941.jpg
39942.jpg
39943.jpg
39944.jpg
39945.jpg
 
Hi Charles,
Thank you for your prompt and helpful reply.
Great pictures, good to hear the seals are not made from "Unobtanium".
Do you have the part nos available?

Interesting to hear of the pto shaft not having the clutch, but was often substituted from another piece of equipment.

Want to make sure I preserve this equipment for future generations, and for some trouble free use for myself.

If you have the time, a brief overview of how it came apart, ie which shaft first, followed by any handy hints would be appreciated.

I realise we all live in the real world, and time is often scarce, but any further advice/ help would be appreciated by me, and I am sure by others also reading this.

Thanks again, and hope you have a good weekend.

Trains
 

No worries Trains :)
I wrote a detailed account of the dismantling on the Grey Fergie Forum here .
http://www.greyfergieforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=69&start=160

The hardest thing is the removal of the crown wheel , patience here is all you need .
The seal numbers aren't really that useful , the old one as long as it is still reasonably intact is all the bearing supplier will need . Just make sure that they understand that it is an Imperial size so they don't try to give you a metric one .
If you have any specific trouble just ask .
 
(quoted from post at 01:22:22 09/03/16)
No worries Trains :)
I wrote a detailed account of the dismantling on the Grey Fergie Forum here .
http://www.greyfergieforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=69&start=160

The hardest thing is the removal of the crown wheel , patience here is all you need .
The seal numbers aren't really that useful , the old one as long as it is still reasonably intact is all the bearing supplier will need . Just make sure that they understand that it is an Imperial size so they don't try to give you a metric one .
If you have any specific trouble just ask .

Hi Charles.
Thank you for the pictures, and the link.
Wow, great to see the time and effort you have put into your collection, well done.
Very helpful and I have invested some time going over the forum and absorbing as much info as I can.

Trains
 
(quoted from post at 22:16:38 09/04/16)
(quoted from post at 01:22:22 09/03/16)
No worries Trains :)
I wrote a detailed account of the dismantling on the Grey Fergie Forum here .
http://www.greyfergieforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=69&start=160

The hardest thing is the removal of the crown wheel , patience here is all you need .
The seal numbers aren't really that useful , the old one as long as it is still reasonably intact is all the bearing supplier will need . Just make sure that they understand that it is an Imperial size so they don't try to give you a metric one .
If you have any specific trouble just ask .

Hi Charles.
Thank you for the pictures, and the link.
Wow, great to see the time and effort you have put into your collection, well done.
Very helpful and I have invested some time going over the forum and absorbing as much info as I can.

Trains

Hi Chaps,

Still looking for the measurement details of the male part of the pto shaft, and of the length of the shaft fully compressed, and fully extended.

If I can find an original pto shaft, that would be great, however to make something up to fit, I need the above measurements so I can order the correct pto shaft.

So if anyone has one currently fitted, can you measure from uni joint to uni joint when its in the fully extended position, that would let me know how much of the shaft is still left in the female part of the pto shaft.

Kind regards

Trains
 
Hello Trains ,
I have only just today put the first coat of paint onto the shaft of the post holer I am working on at the moment . Once the paint is hard enough to handle tomorrow I can take further photos and measurements as well , The Universals are Hardy Spicer , the main shaft is a piece of 2'' or there abouts steel tube and the sliding part is a section of heavy walled 1'' square .
 
A co incidence ! the end of one is for sale right now , about six days to go on the auction and small enough to post .

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FERGUSON-PTO-FITTING-/282172953662?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
 
(quoted from post at 03:03:58 09/15/16) Hello Trains ,
I have only just today put the first coat of paint onto the shaft of the post holer I am working on at the moment . Once the paint is hard enough to handle tomorrow I can take further photos and measurements as well , The Universals are Hardy Spicer , the main shaft is a piece of 2'' or there abouts steel tube and the sliding part is a section of heavy walled 1'' square .

Hi Charles,
Sounds great, is that 1" tube sq or 15/16" by 1".
Thanks for the link, so I put the smaller id sq tube on the end of that and im good to go ?

Trains
 

My hands are about to be operated on , they are giving me grief at the moment, so the focus is unfortunately blurry , it was the best I could do .

Some measurements , Fully closed , including universals the shaft measures four foot ten and one half inches .
Fully open with only about one inch remaining inside the sliding socket the shaft measures six foot three inches .
The bar is as you suggested one inch by fifteen sixteenths of an inch and is seventeen inches long . The universal joint and socket adds a further ten inches to make twenty seven inches overall .
The adaptor piece at the end of the pipe shaft is eight inches long , this receives the solid bar .
The pipe shaft itself is thirty seven and one half inches without the universal joint or the adaptor fitted , it is made from two inch medium walled pipe , much lighter than you would expect .
Hope this helps I am happy to clarify anything if you need it .
 
(quoted from post at 19:12:35 09/15/16)
My hands are about to be operated on , they are giving me grief at the moment, so the focus is unfortunately blurry , it was the best I could do .

Some measurements , Fully closed , including universals the shaft measures four foot ten and one half inches .
Fully open with only about one inch remaining inside the sliding socket the shaft measures six foot three inches .
The bar is as you suggested one inch by fifteen sixteenths of an inch and is seventeen inches long . The universal joint and socket adds a further ten inches to make twenty seven inches overall .
The adaptor piece at the end of the pipe shaft is eight inches long , this receives the solid bar .
The pipe shaft itself is thirty seven and one half inches without the universal joint or the adaptor fitted , it is made from two inch medium walled pipe , much lighter than you would expect .
Hope this helps I am happy to clarify anything if you need it .

Hi Charles,
That info is just what I need, many thanks.

Hope that things go as well as they can regarding your hands and pending surgery/ overhaul :).
Hope they dont leave plasti gauge in there, hehe.

Trains
 
(quoted from post at 19:12:35 09/15/16)
My hands are about to be operated on , they are giving me grief at the moment, so the focus is unfortunately blurry , it was the best I could do .

Some measurements , Fully closed , including universals the shaft measures four foot ten and one half inches .
Fully open with only about one inch remaining inside the sliding socket the shaft measures six foot three inches .
The bar is as you suggested one inch by fifteen sixteenths of an inch and is seventeen inches long . The universal joint and socket adds a further ten inches to make twenty seven inches overall .
The adaptor piece at the end of the pipe shaft is eight inches long , this receives the solid bar .
The pipe shaft itself is thirty seven and one half inches without the universal joint or the adaptor fitted , it is made from two inch medium walled pipe , much lighter than you would expect .
Hope this helps I am happy to clarify anything if you need it .

Hey Charles,
hows the hands going, been thinking of you and hope your doing ok.
Had a look at the ebay sellers items, rang him about a few of them, but the prices went way beyond what I could muster.

Not long till the sickle mower is out and then the hay rake and I must fix the tyre on the baler too before long :(.
Still have storm damage to clean up and fix too.

Trains
 

Hands are doing nicely Trains , thanks for asking :)
No one told me about having to sleep with splints on them for three months though :shock:

What sized auger do you have for your digger ? I have two twelve inch ones , the most common size down here . I missed out on a nine inch one last year , still kicking myself over that one . The nine is so much more useful for treated pine fencing posts .
There are universal fit , universal joints available from companies that make and supply conveyor equipment , these usually cost $20 odd dollars each , they would make good components for a reproduction shaft .
 
Hi Charles,
good to hear the hands are progressing, tho no surprise re the splints being left out of the brochure :), I found long zip ties good for scratching an itch under all the wrappings when supports cant be disturbed.

Ive got 3 augers, 12, 9, and 6 ", auger tips are good, but missing the wipers at the top.
An elderly farmer friend found a male pto shaft, but it was only 15" long, and it needs to be at least 19", but it was a kind gesture of which I really appreciated.

Have not been online much after the flooding/ storms and with school holidays added into the mix, the time just evaporates.
just wish some of the water still around here would :)

cheers
Trains
 
I'm in South East Gippsland Trains , where are you ?
My farm is covered in fallen timber , roads washed out and sheds all needing repairs after the last big blow .

Have to be envious of your augers , the 6 inch one is as scarce as hen's teeth ! and really , really useful . Only one rarer, the short tree planting 18 inch diameter one .
 
(quoted from post at 01:16:26 10/14/16) I'm in South East Gippsland Trains , where are you ?
My farm is covered in fallen timber , roads washed out and sheds all needing repairs after the last big blow .

Have to be envious of your augers , the 6 inch one is as scarce as hen's teeth ! and really , really useful . Only one rarer, the short tree planting 18 inch diameter one .

Hi Charles,

I am learning that I did pretty well by getting it, even with part of its pto missing.
Wifey rekons we got it 52 trees to late, and ive redone most of the fencing around the place now, but I am looking forward to using it, still have plenty of future holes planned, and dont think I, or the wife for that matter with be doing them by hand again.
Were in the mid north of Sa, just have a few acres to enjoy far enough out of town to be quiet, would have loved more land, but I am happy with what we have, its a great place to raise a family.

Trains
 
(quoted from post at 05:07:07 10/14/16)
More land equals more work :)
I suspect that the posthole digger will be welcome in SA's rock strewn limestone soils .

Hi Charles,
agree with you there, tho we have just enough land to need some larger toys, but not enough to get any money from for all the work invested.
Still a great place to be, and yeah, we have a bit of shale to get thru in places, but mostly just silt and clay, which has its advantages and disadvantages.

cheers, and thanks again for your help before, its much appreciated.

Trains
 
(quoted from post at 05:07:07 10/14/16)
More land equals more work :)
I suspect that the posthole digger will be welcome in SA's rock strewn limestone soils .

Hi Charles, just wanted to let you know that I tried my shorter male pto shaft, and it was just long enough to run without the shaft whipping.
Have been looking for a longer shaft, but nothing has come up.
Needed some holes for trees dug, so thought I might as well try.

Was good to hook it up, test it dry, then put the gbox over at 45 deg and top up with 90-140 gear oil, and then 9 holes later in very short order, one happy wife, tho she did mumble that it was 60 odd trees too late, and some fencing too, hehe

thanks for the help, and hope the hands are fully recovered.
tried to attach some pictures but dont have ftp to upload them at the moment.

Trains

[/img]
 

Lets try these pics.

Fposthole1.jpg


and
Fposthole2.jpg


And whilst were at it.

hay last year
hayrake16.jpg


and


baling216.jpg


Always good to see a little 35 in action.

cheers

Trains
 

Great stuff Trains ! :D
Thanks for the feedback always good to know when things work out . I have never seen this model post hole digger behind a 35 before , I thought they were supposed to not fit without modification . In fact I'm almost certain an application book I have by Ferguson mentions this ; I must check .
One tip with planting trees in post holes I learnt from a forester years ago was to score the sides of the hole with a shovel before planting the tree . It seems that the auger can ' polish ' the sides of the hole , especially in clay soil . This can collect too much water in Winter and create a barrier that makes it difficult for the young roots to pass through .
Impressive power developing by the looks of all of those chopped up roots in the photo , I wouldn't fancy digging in that by hand .
 
(quoted from post at 02:58:59 08/28/17)
Great stuff Trains ! :D
Thanks for the feedback always good to know when things work out . I have never seen this model post hole digger behind a 35 before , I thought they were supposed to not fit without modification . In fact I'm almost certain an application book I have by Ferguson mentions this ; I must check .
One tip with planting trees in post holes I learnt from a forester years ago was to score the sides of the hole with a shovel before planting the tree . It seems that the auger can ' polish ' the sides of the hole , especially in clay soil . This can collect too much water in Winter and create a barrier that makes it difficult for the young roots to pass through .
Impressive power developing by the looks of all of those chopped up roots in the photo , I wouldn't fancy digging in that by hand .

Hi Charles,
Hmm, not sure about the modifications, they fit the back top link fine, and the swing arms are ok, the male pto shaft I was given has the larger spline the 20s had the smaller pto outlet as you know, maybe this was the issue.
Jibs, grader blade, plough fit both the 20 and 35 that ive tried.

I did a bit of scratching around breaking up the roots with the auger to get rid of them, saved using an axe and shovel but didnt need a hole there, stopped and snapped a pic, then raked the bits away and replaced the soil.

Yeah dig deep hole, then fill in by opening up the top bit of the hole, and layer up mulch, blood n bone, gypsum, water saver crystals etc, more mulch etc, you get the idea, gives the roots something to search for, and as you said, takes away the polished sides of the hole.
Depending on where the plant is located, they are finally put above the hole, not down in it, if there might be water soakage issues, then we put bales around the trees to help manage weeds, and let the worms turn the soil for us, works pretty well if your patient.

There were a few roots that were munched by the auger tho, good arm thickness bits, few nibbles of the auger, then pop, and a few turns later, they were spat out the top of the hole, was surprised how big they were.
Wife timed a hole, about 50 seconds, but I did take the auger out of the hole a few times to clear the screw, was only running 900-1000 engine rpm.
Glad I didnt find a strong root, and wind the auger half way to china :)

Trains
Previous owner of the auger must have had a deere and plenty of touch up paint hehe.
 

I finished the restoration of my second post holer the other day Trains , photos of which are at the link I posted to the ' Other ' forum :)
I searched through my TE20 to FE35 Implement adaptation book today and found the reference I recalled . It is a really useful book printed in 1956 and lists the part numbers and process for adaptations needed to continue to use existing Ferguson implements on the newer FE series .

2732.jpg


2734.jpg


So it seems that only the very earliest models needed to have new ends welded onto the arms and that later models like those we have were able to be used on both tractors .
PS , love the hay rake !
 
(quoted from post at 17:49:22 08/28/17)
I finished the restoration of my second post holer the other day Trains , photos of which are at the link I posted to the ' Other ' forum :)
I searched through my TE20 to FE35 Implement adaptation book today and found the reference I recalled . It is a really useful book printed in 1956 and lists the part numbers and process for adaptations needed to continue to use existing Ferguson implements on the newer FE series .

2732.jpg


2734.jpg


So it seems that only the very earliest models needed to have new ends welded onto the arms and that later models like those we have were able to be used on both tractors .
PS , love the hay rake !

Hi Charles, Many thanks for the detailed replies, much appreciated, I find this sort of thing both very helpful and fascinating too.
Hay rake does a very good fluffy windrow, our neighbors all come and have a watch and wave when I get the mower, rake and baler out, they used to use the same equipment, but over 50 years ago :shock:

I was not aware of the different top mount arms, dodged a bullet on that one then :).

Auger has been on the back of the tractor the last few days, and as yet, no real oil leak from the output or input seals, it all felt quite tight when I inspected it all hooked up, and also when I ran it.
Great read on the grey site, your projects look well cared for an lovingly restored, I grew up on an irrigated property with a grey gold 35 pet and 135 3cyld diesel, and remember using the top link you mention, it was all there, I am sure the person who took the 35 knew what it was worth, unlike my Dad :( I really wanted to have that 35, just for sentimental reasons but there you go.
I was only pondering the use for that button when I was washing down the auger screw, I have no idea, sounds like you do tho :).

Current project here is looking into getting a gear re spindled on an old german made mantle clock that has 1/4 chimes and hr toll, was gifted from a family with kids that might have been a bit rough with it, glad its only one end of the gear that has a sheared spindle, all the other gears look ok, has a lovely polite chime and keeps good time too, its the toll side that is broken.

Could do it myself it I had a clockmakers/ jewlers lathe.
Tractors and clocks, both mechanical, and both at the opposite ends of the size chart too.

Trains
 

Odd , I have collected and repaired clocks since I was a boy :)
Handorf comes to mind when thinking of restoring old clocks , at least it's in your state .
The mysterious knob :?
It is a locating pin for the drive shaft when transporting the implement over long distances . It isn't really needed with a 35 but is almost essential when behind a 20 .
Because the pto needs to be engaged to keep such a heavy implement raised it would mean that the auger would keep turning as you drove about on a TE20, clearly not a clever thing to do . So to transport ,the drive shaft was disconnected at the pto and the entire gearbox, shaft and auger flipped over upwards towards the tractor , the lugs on the sides of the gearbox hit the arms and stopped the whole thing from flipping right around . The end of the drive shaft sat on that pin quite neatly . It is a sight to see such an unwieldy thing all packaged up neatly and ready for the road . Try it sometime , it isn't as hard as it looks to flip the thing around .
 
(quoted from post at 04:54:35 08/29/17)
Odd , I have collected and repaired clocks since I was a boy :)
Handorf comes to mind when thinking of restoring old clocks , at least it's in your state .
The mysterious knob :?
It is a locating pin for the drive shaft when transporting the implement over long distances . It isn't really needed with a 35 but is almost essential when behind a 20 .
Because the pto needs to be engaged to keep such a heavy implement raised it would mean that the auger would keep turning as you drove about on a TE20, clearly not a clever thing to do . So to transport ,the drive shaft was disconnected at the pto and the entire gearbox, shaft and auger flipped over upwards towards the tractor , the lugs on the sides of the gearbox hit the arms and stopped the whole thing from flipping right around . The end of the drive shaft sat on that pin quite neatly . It is a sight to see such an unwieldy thing all packaged up neatly and ready for the road . Try it sometime , it isn't as hard as it looks to flip the thing around .

Hi Charles,
many thanks for solving the mystery of that, makes sence when you think about it.
There is a clock maker up in the barossa, might drop the part into him, and get him to re solder a broken gear for my old wind up simpson oven timer whilst im there.
Not that keen on heading down near the city if I can help it.

Sorry for the late reply, wifeys book is about to be launched, and im not sure where the time all goes.
10 years of work, but the last few months have been a blur.

once the dust has settled, will ask about splitting the 35, the clutch is almost worn out, you just brush the pedal to release the clutch, yes the pedal has the correct gap under the foot peg.

Cheers

Trains
 

Also an illustrator , Childrens' picture books , close to three hundred in various forms up to now .
A little too well known to name here though .
It is an odd world , tractors , clocks , farms , probably Landrovers as well .
 
(quoted from post at 18:21:35 08/31/17)
Also an illustrator , Childrens' picture books , close to three hundred in various forms up to now .
A little too well known to name here though .
It is an odd world , tractors , clocks , farms , probably Landrovers as well .

Looks like we all enjoy the good things in life, tractors etc etc etc :)

Sent you an email.

Thanks again for your help and advice its much appreciated.

Trains
 
Hi Charles, I am trying to find a bevel gear for auger. Have done many a hole with mine but i think the key sheared and blew the gear in half. Chewed the shaft a bit too but i think I can get it built up ok. My auger is a pig to put on so i usually anchor it to a tree, any clues on how you do it? Would appreciate any help with the gear. Its the small gear in you first photo https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1284767
 

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