davis 102 control valve replacement option

seek amanita

New User
I am not very tractor savvy. Started a post about my new to me (and Freely given) International 300 with davis 102 loader and 201? backhoe.

Anyways, the control valve leaks like no ones business on the loader. I have yet to find a replacement for the seals the levers seat in. Since I cannot find them, I feel the best alternative would be to replace the complete valve. Has anyone done this with this loader? and can offer suggestions? I am reading and trying to learn about the valves. And I find Northern has a 4 way valve rated at 25 gpm

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200638935_200638935

or this one rated at 12 GPM but I am unsure if it is a 3 way or 4 way.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200638935_200638935


Now, I dont know if I need a 3 way valve or what, so if anyone that can help me decide, it would be appreciated. If possibly, it would be nice to have a option to float if possible also.


Thanks in advance!

-chris
 
The 12 GPM should be ok but make sure it has float position in one bank. As for the seals in the old valve they are usually just quad rings or O-rings available at any bearing supplier.
 
(quoted from post at 00:08:24 08/15/17) I am not very tractor savvy. Started a post about my new to me (and Freely given) International 300 with davis 102 loader and 201? backhoe.

Anyways, the control valve leaks like no ones business on the loader. I have yet to find a replacement for the seals the levers seat in. Since I cannot find them, I feel the best alternative would be to replace the complete valve. Has anyone done this with this loader? and can offer suggestions? I am reading and trying to learn about the valves. And I find Northern has a 4 way valve rated at 25 gpm

or this one rated at 12 GPM but I am unsure if it is a 3 way or 4 way.

Now, I dont know if I need a 3 way valve or what, so if anyone that can help me decide, it would be appreciated. If possibly, it would be nice to have a option to float if possible also.


Thanks in advance!

-chris

The Davis 102 loader shows a 20gpm hydraulic pump to run it, I'd make sure that you get a valve that flows at least that much.

The Davis 99 uses a 12gpm pump.
 

Sorry, but "float" is a new term relating to tractors to me. Would someone please fill me in?
 
(quoted from post at 12:02:29 08/15/17)
Sorry, but "float" is a new term relating to tractors to me. Would someone please fill me in?


Float allows the loader bucket to free float over the contour of the ground. When the lever is put into the float position and you backup, you can use the bucket to "float" alot the top of the ground using just the weight of the bucket to hold it down.

Very useful for leveling loose dirt or material.
 


The seals that I took out do look like metal bearings. They are the seals that the levers go in on the outside of the valves. Rubber orings would be too weak I would think?
 
(quoted from post at 10:16:33 08/15/17)
(quoted from post at 12:02:29 08/15/17)
Sorry, but "float" is a new term relating to tractors to me. Would someone please fill me in?


Float allows the loader bucket to free float over the contour of the ground. When the lever is put into the float position and you backup, you can use the bucket to "float" alot the top of the ground using just the weight of the bucket to hold it down.

Very useful for leveling loose dirt or material.

Thanks for explaining that. It does indeed sound like a useful thing.
 
(quoted from post at 13:17:48 08/15/17)

The 102 says it's rated to 18gpm at 2150 psi at 2000 rpm I believe.

Just doublechecked, we're both incorrect, but you're closer.

The valves are rated at 20gpm, but the pump will push out 17gpm.


mvphoto2013.jpg
 


Ok so if the pump pushes 17 GPM, I assume I should go with a equal or next step higher pump? The 20 GPM? Is there any disadvantage going with a valve that's rated to a higher flow rate?
 
Those are probably wipers to keep dirt out of the spool. If you remove the ends and just leave the spool you should be able to push the spool inside a ways and see the O-rings in the valve that seal the spool. Usually only in there about 1/8 inch. I have replaced a lot of them. Be careful because the spool in a precision fit to the body.
 
This link may help.

http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/46078-how-to-replace-rubber-seal-for-hydraulic-control-valve/
 
(quoted from post at 17:50:37 08/15/17) this is the parts breakdown. Number 62 is the part I have been trying to find. Fluid floods out of these seals. Am I allowed to post to a pic on another forum?



http://alturl.com/uwbb3

Don't see any number 62 anywhere in those drawings.
 

Sorry, I see it now. For some reason it did not load completely the first time I clicked on it.
 
I'm with ptfarmer, I'd go for that. It also has the option for power beyond (also a very good thing!) with the addition of the PB sleeve. Then you can add more auxiliary hydraulics (add a grapple, for example) if needed.

I may actually pick up one of those somewhere down the line as well. The price is right, and it'll work with our loaders. Good find!
 


Then I will order it. I am not very familiar with power beyond but if it'll open up possibilities for additional hydraulic attachments down the road, I like that idea
 
NOT sure what valve you have (a photo would be nice), but if it's the typical valve Davis used, it's compact and fits the loader nicely, and the seals (O-rings or quad rings) can be found at any hydraulic shop, on line, or call Baum Hydraulics in Omaha.

SHAME to throw it away if all it needs is seal rings.
 
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...NCE-RD522GCGA5A4B1-OC-VALVE-W-FT-9-6702-F.axd

One like this would be ideal and is very similar to the one I put on my 102 loader. You'll have to do some plumbing. The problem I had with my old controls was that the spool was so worn down that even new o-rings didn't help and oil would squirt out the top giving me a nice shower of hydraulic fluid! It was also starting to break apart from years of use/abuse. The new valve is so much nicer to use and the float is a great addition.
 
(quoted from post at 13:54:42 08/16/17) http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...NCE-RD522GCGA5A4B1-OC-VALVE-W-FT-9-6702-F.axd

One like this would be ideal and is very similar to the one I put on my 102 loader. You'll have to do some plumbing. The problem I had with my old controls was that the spool was so worn down that even new o-rings didn't help and oil would squirt out the top giving me a nice shower of hydraulic fluid! It was also starting to break apart from years of use/abuse. The new valve is so much nicer to use and the float is a great addition.

The link that he posted to Amazon is actually the exact same valve, and cheaper, with free shipping!
 
Guess I should have clicked the link :oops: . Well I concur, that one would be even better! :)
 


Yup, looks like the same thing but cheaper :) . I am going to go ahead and get this one. I appreciate everyones input with this.

Might need help when it comes in though :)

-chris
 
I think I have some pictures from when I did mine. Or maybe it was the power steering, which shows a good part of what I did for the loader valves.
 


Thanks ill check this out!


On another note, not to give new life to this thread, but Is it possible to do a joystick single lever without anymore complications? Saw one on the john deere setup as a demo at the county fair tonight and remember how easy they are to work. Wondered if it was something I could do just as easy as replacing the one I have. .... sorry :)
 
As long as the specs are the same as far as flow I see no reason not to do it that way. I contemplated it for mine but I was already used to having two levers. I've run other equipment with joystick and once you're used to it, I think it's a bit easier. It's kind of a muscle memory thing. I don't even have to think about it my hands just do what they're supposed to. That also applies to the backhoe which has 4 separate levers for all the functions. You find ways to make your hands do what they need to do in order to make it function smoothly.
 
In looking at your pictures it's definitely a bit different from the controls on mine but that shouldn't affect you putting on a different set of controls. The only thing is that the return line on the original control back to the tank comes out of the mounting flange where it bolts on to the frame. I had a plate welded up with a threaded piece of pipe where I could attach a return line from the new control valve. Other than that it's finding a way to mount the new controls at a position that will be comfortable to operate for long periods of time, having appropriate hoses made up if necessary and plumbing it all together.
 

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