MF165 gas mirco groves on crank

On my MF165 gas, it has a slight knock and low oil pressure when warmed up. thanks to the great members here, they pointed me to the connection rod bearings. when I check. the front two rods have a little play - at most 1/32dn, 3rd none, and 4th or rear has about 16th. so I removed the 4th to check out. on the crank, it has what looks like micro groves, maybe 1/32. like an LP's groves. these look intentionally machined. all are evenly spaced. not here and there like you would see on say, auto brake rotors. also have sharper points - from being cut in. is this normal?

a 2nd question, can I just replace the bearing(s), at least as a temporary fix until winter when I don't need it as much (for bi-monthly mowing and minor loader work)? I know I might mess the crank up, but figure I can get new one for almost what getting the current re-grounded. just don't want to mess the block up. thanks all!
 
If you have 1/16 play you will be throwing a rod through the block. Then you will be spending some real big bucks to find a motor. I wouldn't even think of using it like it is. IMO
 
Simple answer is yes you could be in new rod bearings but you will be lucky if you get 10 hours on the engine before it either starts to knock again or you throw rod out he side of the block. I was taught years ago no matter what the task do it right or not at all and in this case doing ti right will save you lots of $$$$$
 
What engine does it have, the Continental, or the Perkins gas. Which ever one you have I wouldn't run it without replacing the crankshaft, and the oil pump. You could put new bearings in it, but as others have said it would be a waste of time, money, or you could wind up with a blown engine which will cost you even more money (it's just not worth it).
 
Check you posting that you posted back on 07-19-2017 Titled:

MF165 gas G176 Crank - replacing connecting rod bearings:
 
Thanks ]John Deere D, sorry in missed you reply on the other post. That is great info! Thanks to everyone else for taking the time to reply! Boy, do it right and pay big bucks or do it half butt and pay even more do I have to split the tractor to get the crank out?
 
Cannot say for sure but you stand a 99.9% chance to pull the crank out you have to split it. I do not know that tractor as such but I know most of them you do and on a 185 you have to and it is a lot like what you have
 
NOT sure if you are confusing fore and aft movement of the rod on the journal with "oil clearance" or "running clearance", but typical oil clearance is 0.0015" to .003" and 1/32" = TEN times that much, or 0.03125"!!!!!! WAY past the point the rod is going to be planning an exit strategy!
 
I was guessing at how much. But it is up and down movement. #4 compared to #3, which has almost no movement up/down, has a lot. #1 and #2 have a little up\down movement, maybe twice that of #3. But 4 has at least twice that of 1 and 2 and 3 or 4 times of 3. I still need to plastic guage yet. I did run a mic on it and it does not seam out of round. It only slightly knocked after it warmed up and just lately seamed to get louder. From what everyone is saying is I need to fix the right way or pay more in the long run
 
(quoted from post at 10:52:20 07/29/17) NOT sure if you are confusing fore and aft movement of the rod on the journal with "oil clearance" or "running clearance", but typical oil clearance is 0.0015" to .003" and 1/32" = TEN times that much, or 0.03125"!!!!!! WAY past the point the rod is going to be planning an exit strategy!



Bob I am current rebuilding a 1971 Ford 4500 industrial tractor with a loader, and backhoe. The guy I bought it from said it had a knock coming from the front of the engine. Got it home, split the tractor, pulled the oil pan, and the number one rod. The number rod journal measured .110"-.130" under standard depending on where you measured it, the journal was non-concentric!
 
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