MH475

Michael QLD OZ · Jul 5, 2017

I have just got this MH 475 sunshine home.
1 quick wask later and I see that the positive lead for the battery has been removed completely.
Can anyone tell me where to reconnect the new lead as to me it's not obvious.
Also am I right assuming that its a Negative earth?,

Michael QLD OZ · Jul 5, 2017

Sorry mistyped I believe it is a 745.
The pink lead in the photo goes to the block then a heavy blue lead goes from the same point on the block to the starter motor.

Tony in Mass. · Jul 6, 2017

I thought i responded to this last night? I click something wrong?
So's anyway, pommie diesels even in these years were still 6 volt yes? So most likely positive earth. If the clamps are still on the cables you have there... and it 'ran the last time we used it'.. the earth terminal should fit the positive post of a battery. It really doesn't matter unless everything else is in good order. If you are starting from scratch, might as well go 12, and wire it negative earth.

Michael QLD OZ · Jul 7, 2017

That makes sence to me 12v neg earth it shall be.

Roy in UK · Jul 7, 2017

MH 745 with The Perkins L4 engine. It will be 12 volt.

Michael QLD OZ · Jul 8, 2017

So its a 745s from about 1957.
The engine is siezed and so are 3 of the valves. I have put atf and acetone into the cylinders and got a decent shifter onto the crank nut.
No movement so far but time will tell.

Tony in Mass. · Jul 8, 2017

You need to find a farm tractor that 'was not' in the submarine service. Tho Gregory Peck would be proud of you...
Try brake fluid too. Looks like another head needs to come off huh?

Michael QLD OZ · Jul 9, 2017

I just got this from a bloke here in Australia

Michael QLD OZ · Jul 9, 2017

I had alook at taking off the sump, but I dont think that is an option without removing it from the frame. So I pulled out the oil filter access and had a look up inside cylinder 2, it seems very rusty. Tomorrow I will get the inspection camera up inside there and post some pics.

Tony in Mass. · Jul 9, 2017

(quoted from post at 17:39:24 07/09/17) I had alook at taking off the sump, but I dont think that is an option without removing it from the frame. So I pulled out the oil filter access and had a look up inside cylinder 2, it seems very rusty. Tomorrow I will get the inspection camera up inside there and post some pics.

Nay bloody worries mate, that sump will come off IF you find all the bolts, in all directions. So you have an inspection camera? good on ya mate!

Michael QLD OZ · Jul 11, 2017

The worst corrosion seems to be on piston 2 and 3 number one seems good but so far I cant get a look at number 4.

Michael QLD OZ · Aug 10, 2017

Well it has soaked in a mix of ATF and Acetone for a while and no movement yet.
I would usually just removed the head, but I am having a problem finding the head gasket , lets say it still a work in progress.
So I hooked up a puller to the crank and tried to draw the crank backwards bringing piston 2 down as it seems the worst rusted.
However the puller gave way, it was only 3/4 mild steel threadall as I would prefer it fail than do other damage.

Michael QLD OZ · Aug 10, 2017

So the engine Crank is still set solid, and no head gasket in site, I decided to try a few old suggestions on breaking the rust connection.
First I used a wet vac to draw all the fluid out of cylinder 2 the boiled the kettle and filled the cylinder with boiling water. Let it sit for 5 mins and repeated.
Then I took some dry ice put it in a small cantainer and poured rubbing alcohol over it till i had asupper cold fluid, re vaced the cylinde empty anf tipped the -20 deg sludge into the cylinder through the injector port.

Michael QLD OZ · Aug 10, 2017

Then I got underneath and took another snap of the piston from below

Tony in Mass. · Aug 10, 2017

This is your engine? It looks like a snapshot of Apollo/ Soyutes docking back in the 60's...

Michael QLD OZ · Aug 10, 2017

Well the dry ice routine did not appear to achieve anything, but it should have disrupted the rust connection somewhat. This morning I wet
vacced out the cylinder again and heated up some atf to about 170 deg C then filled the cylinder up. i will let it sit till next days off.
Picture from the sump upwards shows that not much has changed and I still have not got atf between piston and liner.

Michael QLD OZ · Dec 7, 2017

So I finally made abit of space in the shed to have a propper look at this engine.

It took a bit of a push from another import but got it headed towards some shade to work in.

Before I start pulling it down, I will show a little optimism, can anyone tell me how to set this engine to top dead centre number one on the compression stroke, with the valve train off, so that all valves are shut, is it as simple as finger over the injector port on number 1

Michael QLD OZ · Dec 8, 2017

Being a 4 cyl with only 2 valves per cylinder, I believe that if I leave the crank in place with the cam shaft. When the rear most cam lobe is at its heightest point then bothe valves on the front cylinder should be closed and the piston should be at the top of the compression stroke. I think, cause that is how I would set the valve gap for the first valve. Just not sure, but no matter I have plenty of work to do before I get to that.

Michael QLD OZ · Dec 9, 2017

Rocker cover off again and the atf has cleaned things up a bit.

Valve train off.

Push rods out, the tips seem good but each one is showing lots of surface rust about halfway down.

Exhaust manifold seems to be half filled with mud.

Michael QLD OZ · Dec 11, 2017

Got the head loosened and then off, I have certainly seen worse, never owned it.

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