Massey Ferguson 135

Ralph46

Member
Hi guys,

I just picked up a 135 over the weekend with the perkins diesel. It runs great the only issues are that it has no brakes and there is an issue with the power steering. I beleive it's the deluxe model because it has 5 gauges with a tach and hour meter (6055). I looked up the serial number but couldn't determine what year it is. The tag says 135 454136. Can anyone tell me what year it is? I have a manual on the way, I plan on fixing the few issues it has as well as changing the fluids/filters. I've heard good things about these motors.
 
Does it appear the mechanics of the brakes are working but the pads just aren't stopping the tractor? Like Rockepg says. are the inside of the hubs or rims wet? When I bought my 135 last year I had to replace the seals in the rear axle. Brakes were soaked with oil. Now they work like a charm.
 
Your 135 might be a 1975 British built model, according to the number you listed. US built models would have a 9A or 641 at the beginning of the number. It should have dry drum brakes.The 135 were great little tractors.
 
It may be british built. The gauges all say made in england on them. I moved it yesterday and the right wheel was squeeling almost like something with the brake was hanging up. I will take a closer look over the weekend.
 
ivor from UK here and some years ago there was a survey in the tractor magazine which was the best tractor ever made and the MF 135 won, I remember someone buying a SH 135 and he had brake problems
 
Hi there! Yes the 135 is as good a tractor as was ever made! I'm well through a refurb of my 1967 UK model, 50 years old this year, that we
(my family) have owned from new, and that has worked almost every day of its life, latterly doing all the loader work on a small farm. I have
just finished a brake overhaul (fortunately no oil leakage from the seals) but linings worn down to the backing. Worst job was getting the
drum retaining screws out - I had to drill them eventually (they are quite soft!) an then re-thread the holes in the hubs (with a tap) for
new ones. The drums themselves, if they are stuck, can be removed by 'borrowing' two bolts from the top of the gearbox housing (by the gear
levers) and screwing them into the threaded holes in the drums, put there for just that purpose. This gradually forces the drum away from the
hub. I had to use an impact wrench, very carefully and in very short bursts, on one bolt then the other. They were so stuck that if I had
just used a spanner I would have sheared the bolts. Good luck! (There's plenty on the net about the whole procedure of re-building the
brakes, but I did come across an excellent SOP that I can post if you like. Cheers, Jim.
 
135 purists shall roll on the ground and cry bloody hell....these socket head cap screws are my first choice:


Bob...Owner operator of a MF FE 35 X since new.
a163744.jpg
 
Just re-fitted the drums with new versions of the original! Did coat them with coppaslip grease though, to (hopefully) make it easier for the next guy - which won't be me in another 50 years time! I have no recollection of the brakes ever being overhauled in the 50 years that we have owned and worked the tractor - never used on the highway, so little need of brakes (!!!!!) - dangerous things to use on sloping fields!
 
Hi!

This pic is from my British MF 135. On the pic left there is adjusting screw that can be turned via opening in the brake shield. It's easier to take the drums away, if brakes are turned loose first. Of course adjusting can help so that it's not necessary to open brakes at all:

135jarru03mini.jpg


That was leaking and I changed the inner axle seals. More pics on http://www.haapasalontila.fi/MF135jarrut.html Text is so far Finnish
 
Hi There, sorry to be a pain, but could not help noticing that the left hand spring in your photo (the one next to the adjuster) is in the wrong hole at the top. It should lie against the adjuster, between the 'lugs' This stops the adjuster from turning on its own, but still allow you to 'ping' it round from behind with a screwdriver when you are adjusting the brakes. Jim
 
In fact that spring is in the wrong hole at the bottom too! See above photo, and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQDG2JTBnjg

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpRWVvXuqU8

Jim
 
(quoted from post at 10:07:14 06/24/17) Hi There, sorry to be a pain, but could not help noticing that the left hand spring in your photo (the one next to the adjuster) is in the wrong hole at the top. It should lie against the adjuster, between the 'lugs' This stops the adjuster from turning on its own, but still allow you to 'ping' it round from behind with a screwdriver when you are adjusting the brakes. Jim

There you see it's good to take pics. It's been that way over 30 years. I put it there and didn't have digital camera back then. Anyway the adjustment haven't moved I think. I will write that to my pages too.
 
(quoted from post at 12:02:45 06/20/17) Does it appear the mechanics of the brakes are working but the pads just aren't stopping the tractor? Like Rockepg says. are the inside of the hubs or rims wet? When I bought my 135 last year I had to replace the seals in the rear axle. Brakes were soaked with oil. Now they work like a charm.

I'm working on my MF 165 brakes as we speak which are similar to the 135. How did you remove the seal on the outside of the axle?
 
Hi - I need to replace the inner oil seal in the RHS half shaft on my MF135 as I have oil leaking into the brake drum. I notice you have sone this job previously - do you have any tips please?
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top