Massey35 fires, dies.

BillwithMF35

New User
Hi, I am trying to get my Massey 35 back to life. It stopped running while I was hauling a load of firewood and has been out there ever since. I took the carb for a rebuild (it didnt need any parts, my friend at the shop just cleaned it up and reassembled)--not the problem.
Late 50s (I think) Z134 gas engine.
Since the problem started, it hasnt wanted to keep running, just starts, runs a bit and dies. Then wouldnt do anything. Aside from the carb, I just changed: plugs, wires, points/condenser/rotor/dist cap. Couldnt find a new coil so that is still original. Spark is alternating blue/orange going into distributor.

Having changed all those ignition parts, I was back to: cranks,fires briefly, runs for a second, then quits.
I just took delivery of a new sediment bowl assembly so I am heading back out to try that. (definitely needed as the old one was leaking and shutoff valve gone wonky.)

To be continued.
 

So here is the specific advice I need: in the course of doing all this I have messed with the carb settings--both screws--I like to think they are back to not far from original but I dunno--and the distributor. I have noticed there are two adjustments for the distributor, one is the mounting bracket marked R I A (retard to advance ?) and the other is plain old twisting the distributor till it finds the sweet spot (which I obvs havent found. ) Can anyone suggest a sequence for adjusting these two systems? And details for getting the carb set to where it should be? Any tips appreciated.

I'd sure like to source a coil. I'm in eastern Ontario.
If I get real lucky it will all run swell once I get this fuel gizmo on, but I'm not counting on it. Cheers, I'm off to the woods again.
 
First: It appears to be firing or it wouldn't start then die.
second: It appears to be getting fuel for a while or it wouldn't run at all.
third: A common problem is the stopping up of the inlet to the sediment bowl. This is the behavior they cause. Also, if there is an amount of water in bottom of tank this can happen.
Fourth: This can be discovered by removing the glass off the sediment bowl with the valve shut off. If when you open valve gas continues to flow, then you can look elsewhere. If it runs a while and stops
there is something in tank floating around and getting over the inlet tube for sediment bowl.
Fifth: There is many times a strainer screen in the right angle fitting that the fuel line from tank to carb screws into.(it is usually a brass fitting in the carb that the line screws into.) Remove that too and check for plugging. If plugged either bump on piece of wood to
dislodge the trash or buy a new one.
Good Luck
Jim
 
Thanks for the info Jim. I'm happy to report that after I removed the old sediment bowl, which of course caused the gas tank to drain (I was prepared for that fortunately) and got the new one on, engine fired right up and ran smoother than it has in some time. Idle is rather fast but I can fuss with that later. I drove tractor home with its load of wood with no issues.

I noticed that the new sediment bowl has a cylindrical,open-topped mesh filter at the intake; there was no evidence of such a filter on the old one.

I was pleasantly surprised that the replacement sediment bowl was so inexpensive, cost about ten bucks US plus shipping.

Doubt I actually needed to spend the hundred bucks on carb and ignition parts, but they certainly didnt do any harm so I'm glad I did, considering it is running so much better with no misfiring now.
 

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