MF 250 break lever pin rusted

I have figured out that the break levers(#7) are rusted in all three places and will not allow the breaks to release. I've worked both of the break rod pins loose and disconnected them on the right side. I will have to do one side at a time. In the manual MF-42, page 62, fig. 163, the top pin in the break lever is rusted in place. I have nothing to apply heat. I've been using PB blaster. I've tried every thing I can think of including a C clamp on the lever and back side of the pin to push it out. I cant get a break puller jaw on it or a crowbar under the head, just a small screw driver and I've busted enough knuckles on the dang thing. Can or should I take the break lever support (#5) off and deal with it. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the seal(#4) any way, it looks dry rotted around the edges. Will fluid come gushing out from behind the break lever support? If it dose, I just catch it in a container for proper disposal and put some new in after I am finished with the breaks.
I'm assuming, It was the engine oil not the hydraulic fluid that was shooting out of the dip stick hole. If over heating was the issue it would not have stopped when the engine was killed, It would have continued to boil. The Wheel turns now with no noise or binding.
The primer bulb diaphragm is busted allowing diesel in the oil chamber it seams. I might as well give her a new paint job while I've got the fenders off. Is their any think else I should do while I'm fixing things in this area?

Hello, if you have tried all 'reasonable' force then it's time to get a little more ruthless. The first thing to do
is remove the brake lever housing from the axle housing. Can you remove the retaining bolts? If you can and can
manage to create a gap between the two wide enough for a hacksaw blade you can cut the rod. Once off the brake
housing can be soaked in diesel or similar to assist the freeing. Be very careful as it is very easy to break the
pivot lugs. Concentrate on getting it to pivot first. Replacement brake rods are readily available for around ?7 or I
would guess around $10. With the housing off, you can play with it but be patient it will probably take a while. The
'top-hat' seal should be replaced and are cheap to buy. Have you checked the breather pipe that runs down the front
of the engine? These can clog at the bottom and any pressure within the engine has to come out of the dipstick tube
and it will drag oil with it. Is your oil level correct? You refer to the 'primer bulb diaphragm'. Are you referring
to the lift pump. If the diaphragm has perished it will certainly allow diesel to run into the engine oil and cause
the level to rise, probably quite quickly. Lift pumps can be overhauled but common ones like that fitted to the 250
etc and very reasonably priced. Buy an original AC one if you can.

DavidP, South Wales

DavidP, South Wales, I'm sorry I have to ask, but why cut the rod? will the lever and the lever support not just come away from of the housing and slide off of the rod, if I take the two bolts off the lever support? I have taken off the adjusting block and adjusting nut (#8 & #9) in fig. 163. Is it because of the differential lock petal? It sounds complicated to take off and put back on.
If I do cut the rod, cheep is good, but how hard is it to replace? I'm thinking, if I cant get it apart without cutting the rod then how am I going to replace the rod? I guess ill have to look it up in the manual. Would it be worth buying a small propane bottle to heat it up with at the auto parts store? I'd have to sand and repaint it if I did put heat to it right? Would it get hot enough?
What if I left it the way it is and just de rusted the other parts and repainted them?

Hello, it was not clear that you had removed the locking nut/s. If you have that's great. You should now be able to tap the rod back towards the axle. If you can get the rod semi-free in the cross-bush you will be able to remove the three retaining bolts and remove the housing to free it on the bench where you will have better access. Alternatively fit a piece of suitable pipe over the brake arm and push/pull it back and forth until it becomes free - probably in the brake housing. When you have freed it in the housing then you can support it at the head end and try and drift the pin out. If you have suitable drills and a 1/4unf or M6 tap it is worth fitting grease nipples to the pin housing on the arm. You won't have any problems after. A small propane blow-lamp would certainly be a good investment. It would reduce the risk of breaking the housing lugs and you'll probably find a load of other uses for it as well.
DavidP

David P,
the brake lever moves freely. the brake rod, that passes through the brake lever moves freely.
the only thing that is still rusted and will not move is the break leaver pin that attaches it to the break lever support. When I move the lever back and forth by hand, the pin moves with it. I do have the cotter pin out of the back side of it, its just rusted in place. I have all three brake rods disconnected, and the brake spring. The cros-bush is also moving now. Will fluid drain out when I remove the brake lever support? If so what size container should I have to catch it in. Do I need to remove the differential lock petal? I think I will go get the propane torch and try that first as to protect the housing lugs from getting broken as you mentioned. If that fails I will commence to taking it off. I really like the idea of putting a grease fitting in, and I do have a set of taps and dies. The size you gave me was that the same size as all the other grease fittings on the Massey Ferguson 250? If not I can look in the book or figure it out when I get to that point in this project. The bad weather and lightening has kept me from working on the tractor today. But I've learned a lot more because of it. So how hot do I get the brake lever that is around the pin. don't heat the pin itself right? I have never used a propane torch before. How do I know it is hot enough or to hot, and how long do I wait to try and carefully extract the pin while it is still hot? or do I let it cool completely.

Hi, I'm understanding where the problem is now. When replacing the top-hat seal I have always had the transmission drained or jacked the side that I'm working on several inches higher to let the oil run to the other side. If you remove the housing with it level a container that will hold a gallon should be sufficient. If you can grip the pin head to turn it you may stand a chance of removing it after heating. However with the housing removed one bump with a hammer and punch might be all you need to start it moving where as you might spend ages 'playing' with it and not get a direct hit on it. You could also try a pry-bar and suitable packing when it's hot. In all probability it will not be that tight.....but tighter than you can manage with it in place. How hot? You are very unlikely to be able to heat it to red. Check the propane lamps on offer. They do achieve various maximum temperatures. I have one in my service van which is a yello 400g cylinder by GoSystem MAP//PRO. It has a USA reference M1003 SN. It was the hottest one available from a big DIY chain here and has worked very well. It does not have the operating temperature on the cylinder. The adjustable screw-on nozzle pipe has an igniter about half way along it. With the lamp on almost full, three to five minutes of warming should be enough. Try and keep the flame on the brake arm bushing and not on the pin as it will increase in size when hot. It will be trial and error. If necessary leave it until it is stone-cold before trying to move the pin. I believe that most of the grease nipples on the 250 are 1/4"unf.
Good luck
DavidP

If you have to get a torch then i have to agree with the map gas variety. Burns hotter than propane and you can get different tips for different flame patterns. Mine has two.. one for pointed work and one that makes the flame wide for general heating.

Thank you so much DavidP, I will give it a try. I've decided to wait until all the parts come in before attempting to heat it up or remove the lever support. I found the yellow MAP gas. Ill try a pair of vice grips on it after I heat it up a little. If that don't work I heat it up a lot. if that don't work Ill take off the support bracket and tap on it with a hammer. Ill put a grease fitting in it also before reinstalling. I've got to repaint the engine so I will have some paint on hand also. thank you again.