I have figured out that the break levers(#7) are rusted in all three places and will not allow the breaks to release. I've worked both of the break rod pins loose and disconnected them on the right side. I will have to do one side at a time. In the manual MF-42, page 62, fig. 163, the top pin in the break lever is rusted in place. I have nothing to apply heat. I've been using PB blaster. I've tried every thing I can think of including a C clamp on the lever and back side of the pin to push it out. I cant get a break puller jaw on it or a crowbar under the head, just a small screw driver and I've busted enough knuckles on the dang thing. Can or should I take the break lever support (#5) off and deal with it. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the seal(#4) any way, it looks dry rotted around the edges. Will fluid come gushing out from behind the break lever support? If it dose, I just catch it in a container for proper disposal and put some new in after I am finished with the breaks.
I'm assuming, It was the engine oil not the hydraulic fluid that was shooting out of the dip stick hole. If over heating was the issue it would not have stopped when the engine was killed, It would have continued to boil. The Wheel turns now with no noise or binding.
The primer bulb diaphragm is busted allowing diesel in the oil chamber it seams. I might as well give her a new paint job while I've got the fenders off. Is their any think else I should do while I'm fixing things in this area?
I'm assuming, It was the engine oil not the hydraulic fluid that was shooting out of the dip stick hole. If over heating was the issue it would not have stopped when the engine was killed, It would have continued to boil. The Wheel turns now with no noise or binding.
The primer bulb diaphragm is busted allowing diesel in the oil chamber it seams. I might as well give her a new paint job while I've got the fenders off. Is their any think else I should do while I'm fixing things in this area?