rockepg

Member
Hey guys quick question. Having a sr moment.... Cleaning and packing the oil pump on my continental and can't remember if the little divot in the pump cover is supposed to go over the input our output hole?
48290.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:00:07 04/28/17) I would grind that plate flat before putting back together.



That plate isn't really think enough as it is, if you grind the surface you have to grind the relief the same amount. The plate where the relief is already super thin there. A lead gasket goes between the plate, and the pump housing.
 
Decided to rebuild the pump in general. The post for the idler gear is worn on one side enough that there is a pretty good ridge on it. Will need to find a new one or make one.
The gasket that came off there was paper and the replacement one is also paper. New pumps don't seem to be available anymore.
 
Huh.. Wonder if they eliminated the lead and replacements are a paper one of roughly the same thickness. Can't say i have ever seen an actual lead one honestly. I know the parts book indicates the original was lead.
 
I really do not see what PT farmer is talking about, the plate has no fittings on it, any grooves in it will decrease flow/pressure.

The rebuild kit should contain a stronger spring, this will get pressure from 20 PSI to 40 PSI.

I had thought about writing a CNC program to reman the body, it would just need to clean up the bottom and take the same amount off surface.
 
He is referring to the divot that sits over the outlet side. After studying the pump i am not exactly sure what it's for. Maybe reduce cavitation or something but not sure. The spring in the kit is just for the pressure relief and it has the same amount of tension as the stock one far as i can tell by just squeezing it. According to the book it should open around 50 pounds but i find that hard to believe based on how easy it is to compress.
 
Ok cavitation is what i thought it might be. Good to know i haven't completely lost it :)
Speaking of lost it... The piston that goes in the relief hole is supposed to install flat side down and the spring rides in the cup correct? Now that it isn't snowing sideways i need to get out and plow. Then will work up a jig to test the new spring tension but it should be ok.
I do question the integrity of the rebuild kit. The set screw is missing and the gasket is tissue paper thin and looks like it was in someones pocket when their pants were washed. The aluminum drive gear looks like it was bouncing around someones tool box for years. The bushings and pump gears though look fine.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top