MF 50 brake job complication

suplene

Member
I had little or no brakes on my MF 50. I took one wheel off and discovered it had practically new shoes and a good looking drum. The shoes were glazed and there was alot of grime and dirt in there. I cleaned everything up real good and put it back together. That brake works great now, but when I took the other wheel off the whole inside is covered in oil. The parts look practically new. I'm guessing the oil seal is shot. I've got the shop manual, but it goes into great detail about tearing the whole thing apart. There is one small note in italics about changing the oil seal without messing with bearing cup. Here it is:

NOTE: The oil seal in the wheel end of the axle housing may be replaced with- out disturbing the bearing cup.

So, my question is, can I simply pull the end out, replace the oil seal and put the thing back together without making this a major project? If so, any advice on not turning this into a major nightmare? I can easily clean everything up and put the brakes back together, since this side seems practically new as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Yeah just re-read the manual, look at the pictures- the wheel, brake drum already off? The bunch of bolts in the back and the axle will come right out, just go slow and be careful putting in the new seal. There are shims in there too, clean em and don't lose any. 'Usually' it's an easy job.
 
The axle is heavy and combined with juggling the backing plate can make it a little awkward. Just be careful putting the axle in and hold it in the center best you can while sliding it in. If you let the weight ride on the new seal you can tear it. Otherwise pretty simple job.
 
Hi, to add to what Tony has said; The end float of the axles should be 0.002-0.004". Do not assume that the present
number of shims is correct. When at least 4 equally spaced hub bolts/studs are fitted the end float should be
absolutely minimal. IT MUST NOT BE TIGHT. Have one side of the tractor slightly higher than the other to ensure that
one shaft will fall away and then adjust at the higher shaft for a truer setting.

DavidP, South Wales
 
Hi Dave, thanks for the info. At the risk of sounding stupid, I'm not really sure how to check the end play or how to adjust it. Can you give me more details?
 
You need a dial gauge setup. Your manual will have instructions on how to do it. Basically you mount the gauge on the backing plate and measure how much in and out movement you get from the axle while pushing and pulling on it. Adjust the movement by adding or removing shims. Do one side at a time as you'll need the other side installed to get a proper reading. If you do the method davidp suggests then make sure the side you are working on is the low side so you use the tractors weight to hold the bearing and cone together on the other side.
 

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