mark20

Member
Buddy of mine bought a Massey 50 early last year, used it once to bush hog . Next morning went out to fire it up and it was locked up, it's been there ever since. He offered it to me pretty cheap,it's in decent shape. I'm pretty familiar with farmall's but not with massey's. Was thinking of repowering with something else but doesn't look that easy to do. Any suggestions? Look into fixing or repower with something else?
 
They are not easy to repower because the engine is part of the frame. The engine's used in the 50 are easy to rebuild, and the parts are not that expensive. What engine does it have, it would be either a Continental 4cyl gas, or a Perkins 3cyl diesel.
 
It's a 4 cylinder gas. I'm glad to hear that they're cheap to rebuild. Are they the same motor as the 135?.
 
I am willing to bet it is a jammed starter bendix, clutch or PTO bound up- i forgot exactly, cause it wan't suppose to be mine at the time, but my MH50 was tight when we got it, but it was more to do with the barbed wire spun under the brushhog. Miner might remember, he was the one who un- stuck it...
 
(quoted from post at 02:56:37 04/21/17) It's a 4 cylinder gas. I'm glad to hear that they're cheap to rebuild. Are they the same motor as the 135?.


Look at the starter first like Tony suggested, I've seen that happen.
 
Last year when he called me to ask what he should do ,I got him to pull the starter out. He said that didn't work,I got him to check the oil for metal or antifreeze but said it was clean. He's a good guy but not that handy. Im picking it up today ,I'll get it to the shop and check it out. Hopefully before my wife see's I picked up ANOTHER tractor
 
The needle in carburetor may leak and the cylinders are full of gas
can be checked by removing the plugs and try to turn the engine.
If it is the case an oil change is imperative.

On these old machines it is recommended to shut the valve on the
sediment bowl when tractor is not in use.
 
Ok ,got the tractor home.Got digging in,and found all the bearings had been scared up and got hot. The mains look ok and the crank can be saved. Didn't find what was the cause , took the oil pump apart and found the top gear and broken a tooth and sheared of the drive pin. Glad we found that, I'll rebuild the bottom end and should be ready to go
 
If you have a broken tooth in the pump then that is why the bearings are gone. It was pumping metal into the rest of the engine. Lost pressure and bearings over heated. While you have it out i would take the rest apart and give it a good cleaning to make sure any and all metal is out of there. I keep a set of journal brushes on hand for just that task.
Check the bottom of the pan and see if there is any metal "pebbles" in there. Small enough to fit through the pickup screen. Something else might have started to come apart and got sucked into the pump.
 
I'll tell ya. For the extra couple hundred bucks, and couple days of work, do the whole engine. The rings and sleeves must be just as bad, and as rockrpg said, little pieces of metal are all over in there. Then you know you got something for the long run.
 
Wished you lived near me, I'd give you a good deal on a complete, running Continental Z134 engine that has been made to filter the engine oil before it gets to the bearings.
 
The sleeves look good,no ridge's or grooving . I would think that the rings would still be good. I sent the crank out to day, I'll see that's going on with that, and price out a whole engine kit
 

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