MF 150 stopped moving

I was moving a bale with MF 150 and it stopped moving.
I drained oil and removed the pto cover.
When I turn over engine with tractor in gear, i can see the top shaft turning including the back gear.(see picture)
Thanks
 
Hi, Normally when this happens the fault is in the clutch,....a broken plate perhaps? If you can see the main
drive shaft it has a connecting tube or 'shear-tube' as it is known. This is designed to shear when an excessive
load is placed on the transmission. When they break they normally go with a very clear 'bang'. Can you be sure
that the tube has not failed. Make sure that the tube is in the correct place and that the split pin which
retains it is present and open. You have mentioned that you can see the gear on the pinion shaft turning so this
would suggest that the shear-tube is OK. Moving rearwards the first possibility is a broken pinion. Unusual but
possible. Moving on, the bolts which hold the crownwheel to the differential hub can sometimes shear over time
until the last one or two fail and the crownwheel becomes loose. failing that there may be a problem in the
differential hub with the resulting loss of drive.
Let us know what you find.
DavidP, South Wales
 
PHOto one more time
46563.jpg
 
Looks intact. Which axle do you have? The regular tapered one or the one with planetaries? How about diff lock?
With the engine off and transmission in neutral, tires blocked, what happens when you reach in there and turn the shaft?
 
Thanks for the quick responses. I broke the shear tube a number of years ago pushing snow and remember the bang. This past episode, the last couple of weeks, I do remember smaller bangs, maybe 3 on different days. So if it is "[i:22be18489b]the bolts which hold the crownwheel to the differential hub can sometimes shear over time
[/i:22be18489b] how do i diagnose which side and fix? Am I getting to this through the axle port or the top or both.
I will look to see if i can find bolts in parts diargram.
thanks
Marcel
 
Ok does your axle have planetaries or no?
If not lets do this. Jack up the back end so both tires are off the ground. Chock the front tires so it doesn't move on ya. Roll each of the back tires one at a time, do both sides. Does the opposite tire spin the opposite direction or same direction or not at all? Make sure to listen for any poping or grinding. With a helper turn both tires forward while looking through the side cover. Does the shaft turn? Guessing it wont be..
 
I think the clutch disk may have broke, on the bottom of the bell housing there is a plate on the bottom with 4 bolts holding it on. Take that plate off, sometimes any broken pieces will be on top of that plate, you can also look around in there some. You may see something, also have a helper (with the engine off) work the clutch, and see what it does. The clutch should break long before the rear end does.
 
The planetaries also have a drain, and fill plug on them. You could drain them, if something broke some of what broke will come out with the oil. They should have 90wt gear oil in them, and they usually get neglected since most people seem to think that they share the same oil as the transmission/rear end/ hydraulics. If they are ok it wouldn't hurt to put some new 90wt in them, hopefully you won't get any water/rusty looking oil out when you drain them.
 
Hi, I'm curious here. Before my post I checked to see which type of axle is fitted to the 150. This model was not
available in the UK or a UK version of it. I saw several photos of tractors with essentially a 135 axle with
drum/shoe brakes so did not progress any further with a problem being in the outboard reduction units. You have
mentioned about 'draining the planetaries' etc. Was there a 150 model fitted with outboard reduction units and dry
disc brakes as well as the drum/shoe brake set up with a reduction unit mounted behind the gearbox?
Cheers
DavidP
 
The standard models had the basic tapered axle and drums. The rowcrop model has the planetaries. The basic axle also had the diff lock option too.
 
(quoted from post at 09:31:44 03/12/17) Hi, I'm curious here. Before my post I checked to see which type of axle is fitted to the 150. This model was not
available in the UK or a UK version of it. I saw several photos of tractors with essentially a 135 axle with
drum/shoe brakes so did not progress any further with a problem being in the outboard reduction units. You have
mentioned about 'draining the planetaries' etc. Was there a 150 model fitted with outboard reduction units and dry
disc brakes as well as the drum/shoe brake set up with a reduction unit mounted behind the gearbox?
Cheers
DavidP


Take a 165, and put a engine used in a 135 in it, that is pretty much what a 150 is. Some did have the same drum brake setup as a 135. It's a "mixture" of a 135, and a 165, the 150 does have the front axle, and similar steering box, and sheet metal of a 165. I'd trade my 135 diesel for a 150 diesel in a heart beat.
 
When i spin either wheel the other wheel does not move.
When I spin the right wheel walk around and spin the left wheel in the same direction the shaft does not turn
Thanks
Marcel
 
Sending picture of back end, hope it helps in deciding if the tractor has [i:ea699f376b]" does your axle have planetaries or no? "[/i:ea699f376b]
From the manual this tractor is labeled as:
MF 150 Standard Clearance Tractor which could have the manually adjusted rear wheels or the power adjusted variable tread wheel. (13.6 x 28)
or
MF 150 High Clearance Tractor with power adjusted variable tread wheel (12.4 x 38)
Mine is the high clearance.
i will let you know next weekend if i find anything
thanks for your help

46580.jpg
 
Can you confirm that you do not have planetaries type axle? Do you have a differential lock? It would be the lever by your right heel when sitting on the machine if it exists. If you have the diff lock lever then repeat the test with someone sitting on the tractor holding the lever down. This provides a possitive engagement for both wheels and turning one should turn the other the same direction.

I hate to say it but sounds like you are in for some differential surgery.
 
Ah ok the picture helps. That is the standard axle. When you turn the wheels is there any poping, grinding or scraping sounds?
 
One issue no one mentioned is there is a drive coupling on the shaft above the hyd pump. It is made so you can remove key and slide up on short shaft and removeit and shaft then the hyd. pump can be removeed
(after disconnecting other items) through top cover opening. It has a cotter key that keeps it centered and engaged. If the key is gone and/or the coupling is disengaged or broken it will do the same as you
describe. If key is gone it can just slide up on the short shaft and keep the rearend disengaged.
 
Be glad you don't have planetaries on it, if they need repair they are not cheap. Plus the dealer has the special tools to work on them, and needle bearings are sold individually (something like 350 of them). My brother had gone through the planetaries on his 150, when I asked how much it cost he said he didn't want to talk about it.
 
No news other than no clunking sound or no grinding, wheels spin freely. I am kind of stalling because this something i have not tackled before, plus working full time does not help.
Will post as soon as i am able to let you know what i find.
thanks
Marcel
 
Started taking apart yesterday. How is the auxillary control valve held on?
looks like two allan bolts from top?
don't have alln deep / long enough to reach, hole is too small to get 3/8 socket into hole
thakns
Marcel


46849.jpg

46850.jpg
 
It's a allen head bolts (should be 3/8"), hopefully the heads of the bolts aren't rusted enough that they are stuck to the remote valve. On my brothers 135 the inside of the bolt heads stripped so we had to drill the bolt heads off (they were rusted in those holes tight).
 
Only if you have to remove the pinion should the top cover need to come off. Take the left trumpet housing off and you'll get at the differential assembly. Take a look in the manual and it gives instructions but it's pretty straight forward.
 
Hopefully you don't have to take the top cover off. Taking the left side trumpet off the one side is hopefully all you need to do. I think either the side gear(s), spider gear(s), or the cross pin for the spider gears broke.
 
Oh two things to note..
1) drain out the hydraulic fluid as the differential shares that with the hydraulics and transmission. Otherwise you'll end up taking a bath that you dont want.
2) When you take the trumpet off pay attention to any shims that might fall out on ya. There may or may not be any but just pay attention and you'll be fine.
 
finally, here it is.
the bearing is gone, how much of the bearing holder am i missing? half?
is the tractor done?

thanks for the replies
Marcel
 
OUCH!! You should be able to find a new (used) differential housing from a bone yard. With all that damage you'll want one with the differential still in it since yours will be shot. Tractor is savable in general but will take a bit of work.
 
I would like to see how exactly someone managed to do that much damage! I have to agree with getting another good, complete rear end center section, it would be the easiest, and probably least expensive way to fix it.
 

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