165 hydraulic problems

johnpolson

New User
hi new to this forum.
my early round axle 165 had poor lift on the arms took out the pump and cleaned / replaced valves , relive valve etc all looked in good condition filter filthy also changed top piston rings. slight mark on cylinder but not too bad. refitted and tested lift good now but the arm height position not working correctly. arms wont stop in selected position they go right up without stopping. the outside leaver seems to be working as normal. can anybody help please
cheers john
 
There are two levers, position and draft control. For the lift to stop at a given point use position. There were some tractors with pressure control quadrant that draft lever was outside next to fender, all the way back is up. The position was just left of it, all the way back was down, middle stop is up, and going past the stop and forward is position control range for the special hitch it used. Look at your levers, and leave the draft full up, then use the position lever. That's how it should work if all is well with the system.
 
What Diesel said. When I bought my 175, first thing I did was go on e-bay and got a nice original op man for $ 35. I grew up on farm but these are a little complicated if you never used one or had the manual for one. Good tractors.
 
Yes as you say that was how it was before I did the pump repairs . I am wondering if I have accidentally done something to cause the problem I now have.
 
I don't have a manual for a 165, maybe one of the other guys can chime in. Basically you set the draft lever between the marks on the quadrant and adjust the knerled screw on the control arm inside where it contacts the pump levers roller. This syncronizes the lever position to the lift position.
Assuming everything else is adjusted properly anyway...
 
The first thing you want to get is a gauge (0-3000 P.S.I.) I think I paid about $25 for a decent one. Once you get your manual you will note that the procedures always use one. Just follow the T/S ops check and it's pretty clear once you have correctly identified your particular version. I am just finishing up rebuilding the hitch cover on my MF and a lot of the damaged parts I had to replace were damaged from someone just winging it. If the hitch cover needs to be rigged and it calls for the Nuday rigging tools let me know I can send you a drawing to make them.
 
Make sure if you changed the relief valve it is of the correct pressure rating. That is one of the things you confirm with the gauge. They are color coded if you have the cartridge type. The 200 series models ran at a higher pressure and If the pressure is too high it can snap the studs off the cylinder or crack the cover.
 


Thanks guys
lot of info to go on I will post how I have got on . busy for the next few days before I can get back to it.
Cheers john
 
As I found out there where a lot of versions of hitch covers and pumps during the 1970's. When ownership of the company changed, much of the tech data dropped into a black hole. The easiest way to ID your assembly is the casting number of the hitch cover, and the shape of the support bracket on the side of the cylinder. If the support bracket is rectangular with dashpot, You can rig it without the special tools. (there are enough measurements in the service manual to figure it out). If it is triangular, without dashpots you will need the Nuday MFN-1080D tooling. That has not been made in 35 years or so. Feel free to email me as I have done a ton of research and have met some members of the online community who ran service shops for Massey. The MF40,40B,135,and 165 used many of the same parts depending on the time of production.
 
(quoted from post at 17:54:30 03/05/17)arms wont stop in selected position they go right up without stopping.

Do the arms go up immediately after you start the engine or can you get them down with the position lever?
 
(quoted from post at 14:01:07 03/07/17)
(quoted from post at 17:54:30 03/05/17)arms wont stop in selected position they go right up without stopping.

Do the arms go up immediately after you start the engine or can you get them down with the position lever?

the arms go up and down with the outside leaver (draft control)the inside leaver position control seems to be wrong . with that leaver right back (down) the arms stay down . if i move that leaver slightly up then the arms go fully up and wont stop with that leaver. i need to use the draft control leaver to stop and lower. if i dont stop the lift with the draft control then the relief valve lifts. all was working as normal before i serviced the pump
 
When you are working the position lever do you have the draft lever all the way up? You use either one but not both.
 
(quoted from post at 17:47:03 03/07/17) When you are working the position lever do you have the draft lever all the way up? You use either one but not both.

Yes the draft control is all the way up . I normally leave it like that and use the position leaver
 
Sure sounds like something happened to the linkage when you had the cover off. Let us know what happens with the pressure test.
When you had it apart did you work on the top cover at all or just the pump? Out of curiosity what caused you to rebuild the pump in the first place? Wonder if previous person made some adjustments to compensate for worn pump that is now haunting you with a good pump.
 
(quoted from post at 07:40:07 03/08/17) Sure sounds like something happened to the linkage when you had the cover off. Let us know what happens with the pressure test.
When you had it apart did you work on the top cover at all or just the pump? Out of curiosity what caused you to rebuild the pump in the first place? Wonder if previous person made some adjustments to compensate for worn pump that is now haunting you with a good pump.

i replaced the top cylinder rings . they came by mistake when ordering pump kit thought it would be prudent to replace seeing i had the parts. i was careful not to disturb the linkage s but you never know. yes i will post on here when i work on her next . thank s for all the help
 

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