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Brendon Warren

D

dacaseguy

Member
Brendon, thanks for the reply on the fuel lines. The rubber was on the back side of the flare. My neighbor who is a pretty good mechanic said oh no those are the wrong fittings. He cut the flare off and put the tube thru a new rubber which was evidently to tight. We had a hard time threading the fitting back into the fuel pump and when we finally got it started and was able to tighten it the pot metal fuel pump broke? Dick
 
HTH. Yep rubber grommet behind the flare. All of my 100 series are like that. I think they might of used the rubbers to dampen vibration. If Dieseltech sees this he could tell you better than me.
 
Your mechanic is wrong, Perkins has done the lines that way for years after getting away from brass line ferrels. The flare limits how far the line enters, the nut expands the sleeve to seal. I have extra sleeves in both 1/4 and 5/16 inch line size if you want the correct sleeve, just need to know the line size.
 
So are you saying the tubing needs to be flared after the grommet is put on it? Been a while since I had one apart but I was thinking no flare on the tubing and just snug up the nut to seal . If I remember correctly the tubing fit into the back end of the threaded hole about 1/4 inch and the rubber ferrel fit against the shoulder of the filter and the nut compressed it to make the seal. Maybe I am having another senior moment. Seems to happen a lot now.
 
Flare is not really needed IF the line is not pushed in the port too far, nut will hold it snug when drawn tight. That's how I did the lines on my Super 90 puller when I made new lines using steel brake line. Perkins three and four cylinder engines mostly used 1/4 inch lines with the flared end. Six cylinder engines used 5/16 inch lines without the end flare, but a "bubble" formed about 3/8 inch from the end that the line nut made contact with. The rubber sleeve was on the end side of the "bubble". These lines are no trouble to remove or replace.
 
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