MF285 Dry Sleeve Install Frustration

IFF

Member
I started to install a new sleeve in my Perkins 4.318. Per the manual, I put the sleeves in the freezer which, according to the manual, will allow the sleeves to slip in by hand. The other option the manual gives is to not chill the sleeves but to oil them and press into place. I went the cold route since I have no means to press them in because this is an in-chassis rebuild. I chilled the sleeves and put a space heater on the block. When I went to install the sleeve I put a bead of Loctite 640 sleeve retainer near the bottom of the sleeve. Sleeve was a little snug to start, certainly not loose enough to install by hand. I needed to tap the sleeve and was using a wood block on top of the sleeve when the sleeve cracked. I am wondering if the sleeve retaining compound causes too much friction. Do I need to oil the sleeves instead? Is tapping OK or do they need to be pressed? I am ready to spit nails as I need to get this tractor running and not spend money on a stupid mistake. In the end, what is the proper technique?

IFF
 
DON'T use a block of wood, that's a good way to break any dry sleeve. I use a heavy steel plate, hold it down solid on the sleeve while driving it down in place.
 
Dieseltech,

Would you suggest using Loctite sleeve retainer or oil the cold sleeve and go?

IFF
 
cool the liner in liquid nitrogen. its cheap and available from welding suppliers like Airgas. warm the block overnight with a light bulb. work quickly after removing the liner from the nitrogen. should be no need to hammer. If you do not have a nitrogen tank for transport use a styrofoam cooler placed inside a plywood box for safety. Imbed the cooler in the box with urethane foam. wear gloves and safety glasses. I cracked three before I learned a home freezer just isn't cold enough. Remember liquid nitrogen is dangerous if spilled.
 
you do not want anything between sleeve and bore, for heat dissipation. maybe light film of wd40 for ease of installation.
 
Hi, have never needed to go down the chilling route as I have always used a (potentially) 50Ton press when fitting liners. Always ensure that there is plenty of oil present when fitting. The cheapest, safest way when fitting in situ is to use a length of 5/8" or 3/4" studbar. Drill a suitable hole in a bar or utilise something suitable to bridge across the bottom face of the block. Drill a suitable hole in a piece of 1/2" plate or similar slightly larger than the bore diameter. Fit the assembly and tighten two nuts at the top of the rod so that you can prevent it turning.
Ensure that the rod is central and that the liner is started square. Slowly pull the liner in by tightening a nut mounted above the 1/2" plate. Make sure that the tightening nut is well lubricated. Ensure that the liner is fully seated.

DavidP, South Wales
 
Thank you all for the input. I am going to construct a jig that will allow me to use a bottle jack to press the sleeves in place. They will be going in at room temperature with oil and no sleeve retaining compound.

IFF
 

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