135 3 point

When I got my 135 a few months back the 3 point seemed to work fine and lift anything I put on it. Now it won't lift a grading blade I put on it. Checked the dipstick and no fluid on it. It hasn't left a drop of oil on the black top where I parked it. Can it leak internally, where I wouldn't see it. Maybe it was always low and I didn't really put any weight on it. Heading over to TSC to get fluid. Not knowing what's in it, what should I get? The little bit on the stick is very clean/almost clear, not dirty or black. I asked a question earlier about the valve on a remote. The valve will turn 360 degrees. It looks like a ball valve that is off when straight up or straight down, and on when straight forward or back. There is no detent one way or the other. While I'm asking, does the response valve determine how fast the 3 point lifts? I'm going to see if TSC has a cheap manual to answer the easy questions. Thanks Joe.


what position should this valve be in? I was told if it was run in the wrong position the 3 point wouldn't work.



This is the Woods 6' bush hog I got for it for $150. The friend I bought it from said he ran a 6' Woods on it and it didn't even know it was there.



I put new hitch pins in the lower hole because the previous owner blew the middle holes out with bubble gum welds. Figured if I used the lower pins the arms wouldn't have to lift as high to get the mower up.

$150 for the mower is a good deal!

Make sure that the draft control lever is in the constant pumping range (the yellow colored control lever is to be all the way up), and then
try the position control lever all of the way up (the lever in the red). If still no reaction to the 3 pt. arms, then move the lever/handle
for the valve on top of the cover plate to a different location. If the ball valve is in the wrong location it will cut off pressure to the
3 pt. arms.

Post back.

Thanks.

Can I advise you, if that chain gets near the spinning blades it will get real noisy and violent for a while, lots and LOTS of banging and then it may get real quiet. If that is an access hole on top of the deck, with a chain nearby, you might just be asking for it.

Response control lever controls the rate of drop of the 3 point, not rate of lift. A heavier implement will drop faster at a given setting. We have Permatran (Agco) in ours. TSC should have an equivalent TDH fluid. Looks like it's
leaking from the diverter valve at top of trans for a start. No place internal it could go, except into bell-housing and then out through drain hole under clutch.

(quoted from post at 20:11:56 12/06/16) Response control lever controls the rate of drop of the 3 point, not rate of lift. A heavier implement will drop faster at a given setting. We have Permatran (Agco) in ours. TSC should have an equivalent TDH fluid. Looks like it's
leaking from the diverter valve at top of trans for a start. No place internal it could go, except into bell-housing and then out through drain hole under clutch.

Click to expand...

Unless someone plugged the drain hole, seen some for sale that people had them plugged up (no way a stick can be a tight fit in the drain hole).

Thanks again guys. I can't believe I didn't check the trans fluid, it was almost empty. The very first thing I do when looking at any engine is pull the dipstick to see what the oil looks like. I put 2 gallons of the TSC 303 that says it's compatible with MF. It's way over the low mark, but a little under full. I'm going to pick up another 2 gallon jug and keep my eye on it.

Thanks for the warning about the chain. I don't leave anything on the mower when I'm not working on it. My 5,000 pound dump trailer is only 5' wide, so to bring it home from the auction, I had to bolt the chain to one side of the frame and let them lift it up sideways, and back my trailer under it.

I was bidding on another Woods Mower, 96", 3 blade finish. It had receipts for $2600 of work rebuilding it said for tractors of 45-75 horse power. It looked like brand new. I new it was big, but the auctioneer had a hard time getting a $500 opening bid, so I jumped in and bid to $900. It Sold for $1100. I was afraid to leave something that nice on my farm.

I paid $150 for the 6 footer, that's why all the tools are stacked on it. The sheet metal along the front and on one side was rotted out where it meets the frame. So, I bolted 2X2 1/8 inch angel to the frame and put 2"X 1/8" plate on the bottom and sandwiched the sheet metal between it. It's very strong and rigid now, should last till I croak. Thanks again for your advice and help, Joe.

Oh, one more question. I have one rear tire that just seems to have sprung a leak. My BIL swears by The "Green Slime" at TSC. He said they have it in all if their tractor, Gator, and equipment tires. Is the stuff any good, will it mess up working on the tires later? The one rim that's leaking is rusted quite thin around the tire where it beads up. So, I'm looking for a new/used rim. I don't want to put something in it that will make changing a problem.

Do those rear tires have water in them? If so no fix-a-flat type product, like slime, will do anything but make a mess.

(quoted from post at 08:08:51 12/07/16) Do those rear tires have water in them? If so no fix-a-flat type product, like slime, will do anything but make a mess.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure. My BIL said that the type of valve is for a tubed tire. I don't think it has the weight to be loaded. I asked the friend I bought it from and he wasn't sure. Maybe I'll jack that side up and pull the valve stem out and see. It doesn't slosh around when you stop, but my Ford was loaded, and I never noticed it move. I think the neighbor that gave it to me said he had them filled with calcium years ago. They were heavy, Joe.