135 engine rebuild

Bought a 135 perkins diesel loader tractor this spring. Engine turned out to be pretty bad. It has good rubber, good brakes and power steering. Smokes and pukes oil out the breather hose and oil filler real bad. I pulled the loader off yesterday so I can get the tractor in shop and tear into engine. I'm going to pull the pan and head and take a look at crank. I might get by with out pulling the engine clear out ? Dick

Might just need a sleeve and piston set..

I'm hoping just sleeves and pistons and a valve job. Dick

The way you are going to go about it will kill it for sure. Take it apart and do the crank and bearings. And you can replace the clutch at the same time... and have something good for the next 30 years.
The 'new' pressure on old bearings ages them fast. It probably already needs em. In a couple years you'll see what I mean. For a couple more days and couple hundred more, you'll have something that will last for decades.
Taking it off the tranny is peanuts compare you what you did removing the loader frame...

Going through a rebuild on mine right now on my 1965 MF 135 AD3.152. Engine had good oil pressure, but smoked and puked oil out the breather the same as yours. I have run it for a couple years like this just keeping the oil level full and haven't had any problems; aside from using about a quart of oil every 2 hours. Anyway, pulled the engine completely down and found the bearings to be fairly good along with the crank, but the rings where completely shot and they had broken on one piston. Took the head to be rebuilt and they said it was completely worn out. Had to replace all the guides, valves, springs, and have new seats installed. Cost around $500. The engine block is at the machine shop now waiting on my engine kit with the liners. Its my understanding that a machine shop has to remove, install, and fit / finish hone the liners in this style engine due to them being "dry fit" liners. They don't have o rings around the liners to seal the coolant passages and are cold shrunk before they are installed into the block. I'll post more after I get the block back from the machine shop.

Got my block back from the machine shop the other day and it looks great. Cost around $250 to have the crank ground .010/.010, liners removed and fitted, connecting rod small end bushes fitted, connecting rod big ends sized, and block cleaned. The engine kit I used was purchased off eBay from TractorPartsDirect.com, 1-877-319-0059. The parts in this kit where made by companies in England called Anglo and Bepco. The quality seems very good and very similar to the original Perkins parts that I removed from the engine. I shopped around a lot and tried to find a kit that was going to be as close to the original parts as possible, and I feel satisfied that I did with the parts in this kit. I did not want any Chinese or India parts inside this engine if at all possible. I even chose not to use the new Dorman freeze plugs that I found at my local CARQUEST because they had China stamped in them. I found some USA made Pioneer brand plugs and installed them instead. I know, they are just freeze plugs, but the tractor is not Chinese and those China stamped plugs make it appear that way. Just my opinion. Anyway, very happy with the engine kit and after a few checks, I installed it and all the parts fit great. The only exception was the front timing cover gasket in the kit was wrong and I had to buy a sheet of gasket material from NAPA and make my own. I am going to inform the kit supplier after the holidays about this and hopefully can correct this for other people. Building this Perkins engine was fairly easy because it is simple and well designed. I do highly recommend the use of a FACTORY service manual (not an IT) when doing this job, because of specified clearances, torque values, and rear rope seal and piston ring installation procedures. None of this info was included in the kit, just the parts. FYI-there are five 1 1/4 and one 7/8 freeze plugs in the block, none in the head. There are no cam bearings in the block, just machined bores for the camshaft. Rear camshaft seal SKF 8660 not included in the kit. This seal is located in a small aluminum housing where the tachometer cable screws onto.

Thought I'd add one thing that I found out today about my engine rebuild. Started engine and didn't have any oil pressure after a couple minutes of running. Did some investigating and ended up removing the oil filter adaptor and filling both block ports with engine oil along with refilling the spin on oil filter as well. This primed the oil system and oil pressure came up immediately after start up. This may help someone with a no oil pressure after rebuild issue.