Please give input if you have any as I have aged significantly from this dreadful project. I originally posted in tractor talk. Got a few ideas but nothing is working so far. Figured I'd try here since this is where I normally post. To sum it up, on the Davis 102 Loader I mounted on my 135, the lift cylinders are hitting the tie rods when lowering. Below is word-for-word my last post in tractor talk. Sliding axle in, widening loader frame, and moving bottom cylinder straddle up are all ideas, that trust me, will not work.
I can't move axle in because I had to relocate the alternator due to loader install and bringing the axle in the tie rod hits the alternator. I have nowhere else to go with the alternator and I can't see that one slightly smaller will help.
I can't widen the width of the entire loader. It is maxed.
I will explain this one since this is what we had in mind. I will try to not make it confusing. What many of us thought would work as far as moving the bottom straddle up will not work. To get clearance on the tie rod I would have to move the straddle up around 6-8 inches. In addition to really flattening the cylinder, it also compresses it too much and I wouldn't be able to get my bucket down far enough. Reason I would have to go 6-8 inches is because the cylinder is making contact on the inside of cylinder (see 1st picture for reference). So I don't get near inch-for-inch clearance on how much I raise it. I'm mostly just getting the clearance on the tie rod travel. Meaning if I raise the cylinder straddle 6", my contact point is let's say 3" back on the tie rod, only giving me maybe 1.5" of additional clearance which isn't near enough. And that doesn't account for clearance lost in steering.
This is really the only other thing I can come up with. Moving the cylinder to the outside of the current mounting straddles.
Let's start at the top of cylinder. Everything is welded. Yellow square is 4x4 2" thick. The green line is 3/8". The white are holes. The black line around the holes is on the inside and is 3/8" for pin support. I am basically replicating the existing bracket, but on the side of the arm. I am going to use a heavy duty, tight fitting bolt and go through all 3 brackets to tie them all together.
For the bottom of the cylinder, I will drain the fluid because it needs fresh in anyways, and I will flush the reservoir a couple times with the drained fluid after done. The black line indicates where the main reservoir is welded on top of heavier tube frame. The yellow indicates heavy angle iron welded to the entire bottom, coming out a few inches from the side, and up a few inches. The 2 green lines are pieces of steel welded in to tie the angle iron to the side. The white dot is the drilled hole. Again using a heavy duty bolt to tie all mounting holes together.
Will this work, and if not, why?
I can't move axle in because I had to relocate the alternator due to loader install and bringing the axle in the tie rod hits the alternator. I have nowhere else to go with the alternator and I can't see that one slightly smaller will help.
I can't widen the width of the entire loader. It is maxed.
I will explain this one since this is what we had in mind. I will try to not make it confusing. What many of us thought would work as far as moving the bottom straddle up will not work. To get clearance on the tie rod I would have to move the straddle up around 6-8 inches. In addition to really flattening the cylinder, it also compresses it too much and I wouldn't be able to get my bucket down far enough. Reason I would have to go 6-8 inches is because the cylinder is making contact on the inside of cylinder (see 1st picture for reference). So I don't get near inch-for-inch clearance on how much I raise it. I'm mostly just getting the clearance on the tie rod travel. Meaning if I raise the cylinder straddle 6", my contact point is let's say 3" back on the tie rod, only giving me maybe 1.5" of additional clearance which isn't near enough. And that doesn't account for clearance lost in steering.
This is really the only other thing I can come up with. Moving the cylinder to the outside of the current mounting straddles.
Let's start at the top of cylinder. Everything is welded. Yellow square is 4x4 2" thick. The green line is 3/8". The white are holes. The black line around the holes is on the inside and is 3/8" for pin support. I am basically replicating the existing bracket, but on the side of the arm. I am going to use a heavy duty, tight fitting bolt and go through all 3 brackets to tie them all together.
For the bottom of the cylinder, I will drain the fluid because it needs fresh in anyways, and I will flush the reservoir a couple times with the drained fluid after done. The black line indicates where the main reservoir is welded on top of heavier tube frame. The yellow indicates heavy angle iron welded to the entire bottom, coming out a few inches from the side, and up a few inches. The 2 green lines are pieces of steel welded in to tie the angle iron to the side. The white dot is the drilled hole. Again using a heavy duty bolt to tie all mounting holes together.
Will this work, and if not, why?
