Adjustment of a 175 split torque clutch

mechanic

Member
Anyone on here can give advice on how to adjust the clutch pedal on my 175 split torque clutch. When I got it all back together, I pressed the pedal all the way, but the throwout bearing never touched the fingers. My manual say to adjust the lever height but doesn't say how. It does show the tool for the adjustment. I am assuming you would adjust the bolts in or out as needed.
 
Hopefully the release lever bolts are already correctly set. You will need to loosen the clutch shaft clamp and reset it so the bearing will contact the finger bolts with the clamp top 1/8 inch away from the casting. This should give some clearance when the pedal is up.
 
I just had the clutch rebuilt completely. The clutch guy said the finger bolts were set. The problem seems to be that with the pedal all the way down, the release bearing is still off the release lever bolts. I think it needs the bolts adjusted out more so that the bearing can push on the finger bolts to release the clutch. Question is how much does the release fingers need to move? I suppose it is enough to release the clutch form the flywheel. Am I correct in my thinking. As you can tell, I am new to this couch thing.
 
Main thing is the release levers are set to the same height, so the bearing hits all three at once on any clutch. If the correct release bearing is in place the clamp/shaft just needs adjusted as mentioned before. I just reset my brother's 175 today, but it's the dual clutch and the PTO was not releasing. Reset the PTO release bolts, then the free play on the clamp/shaft assembly to get it going again. The bearing should make contact when the clamp top is 1/8 inch away from the casting, is set by turning the shaft with a punch with the clamp bolt loose. Once it's set, tighten the clamp bolt. Tractor should not need split again..
 
Ok, just checked and adjusted again. The bearing is touching all 3 bolt heads. The throwout bearing is at the end of its travel. Looks like the clutch lever bolts are adjusted wrong. They should push forward to release the clutch. But they just touch with pedal pushed and adjusted to the max.
 
When the bearing just touches the fingers, is the clamp assembly top adjusted to the 1/8 inch clearance, or more than that? If more it still needs the shaft turned in the clamp clockwise. This is IF the correct release bearing and holder are in place. MF used different bearings and holders for split torque and dual clutch models. Anytime a clutch is replaced the clamp/shaft needs reset too. As the main disc wears and gets thinner the levers move TOWARD the bearing and the bearing will need reset away. When a new thicker disc is installed the levers will be moved AWAY from the bearing, and adjustment is needed again to get bearing back closer to the release fingers.
 
So, I have checked and rechecked the adjustments. The carrier and throwout bearing are adjusted as far as it can go. The lever that pushes the carrier is as far forward as it can go. It touches the lever adjustment screws but has no more travel forward towards the clutch release finger bolts. I'm starting to think they sent me the wrong carrier and throwout bearing. There is no more adjustment to be made. Event the release lever bolts are out as far as they can go. I wonder if there is a longer release bolts?
 
Something does not make sense here if the bearing and carrier have been replaced with the correct parts. Remove one of the pedal clevis pins and let the pedal hit the step. Now use a tapered punch through the shaft hole after loosening the clamp shaft bolt and turn the shaft fully clockwise to put the bearing against the lever bolts. The clamp bolt assembly now needs adjusted counterclockwise until top is 1/8 to 3/16 inch away from the casting, then tighten the clamp bolt. Replace the pedal clevis pin. Clutch should now release if all correct parts are installed.
 
Ya, I don't get it either. I replaced the PTO retainer, carrier and throwout bearing. The carrier does look to be shorter than the original now that I look at it. It only looks like it needs about 1/4 more to get the clutch to release. I will check the parts agian. I'm not clutch expert but I am a schooled mechanic and something just isn't right.
 
Yes I have. There is no more adjustment to be made. I looked at the carrier, and it is as far forward as it can go. The lever that pushes the carrier forward is maxed forward also. Looks like the carrier is shorter than the original one. See, I got the new PTO retainer that has the larger diameter shaft for the needle bearing. So the carrier that goes with it is a larger diameter also. But it seems shorter. Which would limit the throw out the carrier and bearing. I think anyways. I'm pulling back apart to take a look. I have the split torque clutch also. Maybe that makes a difference in the carrier length?
 
Just checked the Agco parts site, several retainers and carriers are shown with two different bearings also. Carriers both look the same length, with different bore size. Bearing length could be different for the split torque clutch being longer if I recall, dual clutch release bearing was shorter since the clutch assembly is taller.
 
I took the new carrier assy out and measured it against the old assembly. It is shorter by almost an inch.
 
I'm looking at AGCO parts now, and they made several different PTO retainers and carriers to go with them. It's kinda hard to follow, but it's really based on your tractor s/n and transmission s/n. I think they sent me the wrong retainer and carrier.
 
My tractor s/n is 9A 27191. Transmission s/n is 0C 15 P, at least that's what it looks like. It has the split torque clutch and IPTO.
 
Have the 3 (1/4") slave bolts been left in the cover by mistake? Also check your parts list as I think there are 2 lengths of release bearing
carrier for Multi Power or non Multi Power tractors.
 
No bolts left in. It's a split torque clutch anyway. The rebuilt clutch is identical to the original clutch. The problem is the carrier. My parts book shows several carriers. No length mentioned, but I'm sure there is different lenght. One is for the split torque and the other for the dual clutch setup. Then it says whether it is live or IPTO. Then transmission and tractor s/n. I'm kinda at a loss right now. I may just machine the original down a bit on the inside diameter and use it.
 
Well, I got this thing figured out. The new throwout bearing carrier is for a duel clutch and not the split torque clutch. Actually, the new PTO retainer and carrier are for the duel clutch set up. Fact is that is all they make now a days. We have backed up and punted. I'm going to mill out the I/D of my old throwout carrier to match the new PTO retainer. Ended up its better built anyways, twice as thick as the new carrier. Machinist said will be done first of the week. So, problem solved.
 
Haven't got to work on the he the old bird this week, but I am starting back tomorrow afternoon. I got my old throwout bearing carrier machined out to the new I/D today. Fits like a glove! I may just have a the only custom fit carrier out there. Anyway, we have spent $800.00 on this repair. Parts as follow are...PTO retainer and pinion shaft, split torque clutch, constant speed PTO gear, several new needle and roller bearings and several metal and rubber seals. Sounds like a lot, cause it is.
 
Got the transmission mounted bact to the engine early this morning. Throughout bearing and milled out carrier works like a charm!
 
I have another thread about a MF 200, it has a dual. I bought from the forum sponsors and some help here and got some good help. I didn't buy a manual for this and probably should have, its not mine and wont likely see it again.
The clutch fingers looked about the same as the old and looked consistent, I put it in. Its too tight by a bit and am going to investigate further at some point and see if the throw out carrier can move further back and be adjusted with the pedal or need to adjust the fingers? I havnt fully come to understand exactly how the dual stage works, its been a while since I work on anything but a very simple clutch.
I was wondering if the new had the fingers pre set? If they are then I can assume it can all be made with the pedal adjustment? I see something that looks like a chisel mark aligns with the pedal shaft hole, looks maybe like someone marked it or may have even been factory? As it is it seems the pedal is what stops the TO brg from returning farther at this point. We slid it together and going to make sure it all work before bolting it all up and I stopped the other night after I come to this issue, I will have to go back and investigate closely. I had the throw out carrier out, didn't really pay attn. to see if it would return farther. It is not a deal to roll it apart again, takes but a minute or 2.
 
The pedal should do the majority of the adjustments. What I found out is that there is an adjustment on the fingers that should be done on the tractor. The first step is adjust the fingers to the proper height. Then adjust the pedal to so the TB contacts the fingers at the proper time so as the free play in the pedal corresponds to the clutch release. Then you adjust the PTO clutch release. That's my take from the manuals. I had all kinds of parts issues that AGCO couldn't figure out, so I machined some stuff to fit. Used it today for 1000 lb. Hay bail moving and some bush hogging. No leaks and Multipower works wonderfully. I can say i have learned alot about this old tractor. If I can help in anyway just ask. I'm in Alabama.
 
I was hoping to find the finger adjustment. The bolts were centered and similar, looked about the same as the old, not out to an extreme but in the middle so to speak. I was hoping someone had a pic from a manual but probably no go.
 
I figured out from the new set the pre load bolts etc. Never considered them from the tear down.
41934.jpg
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top