Massey Ferguson Power Steering Pump

Caryc

Well-known Member
My MF202 has a Cessna power steering pump on it. It's leaking oil from the top cover gasket. I got a new gasket from Agco, but what I was wondering is this. In the MF202 parts book when referring to that cover gasket part number, it says it also comes with a tube of glue.

So, does that gasket need to be glued to the top? I have not tried to put it in yet though. Isn't there like a recess that the gasket should fit into in that cover? Does it fit so loose that it needs to be glued in place to keep it in there when putting the cover back on? The Agco gaskets didn't come with any glue.

One other thing. Concerning the bolt that holds the top cover on, the book shows a gasket on that but Agco's info listed it as a washer which they say is no longer available. I'm thinking that this may have been a copper washer that works as a gasket when you tighten down that top bolt. I purchased an assortment of copper washers from Harbor Freight that I will try on it.

Any actual knowledge about this stuff would be appreciated.
Thanks guys.
 
Ok, I have the Cessna power steering pump and it has a leak. As near as I can figure, it's leaking from the bottom of the reservoir where it connects to the pump.

In the parts book with the breakdown of the pump, it looks like the place it would be leaking is the O ring between the reservoir and the top of the pump.

It looks like there is only one bolt inside the reservoir that holds it to the pump. Could it be as simple as replacing that O ring to fix my leak? Anybody had any similar problem?

I'm going to have to pull the pump off to get at it.
 
One more question on this pump. I think it's leaking between the bottom of the reservoir and the top of the pump. So I ordered the O ring that goes in there.

So, when I replace the pump, the book says to fill the reservoir and run it, then fill it again if needed.

My question is this. When I initially fill the reservoir can I run the tractor without the top on it, or will it throw oil all over the place?

With the loader frame right in front of the pump, it's kind of a PIA to put that cap on while holding that heavy spring down under it. I'd rather get it to the correct level before putting the cap on the last time.
 
Wow, I got that new reservoir top cover gasket from Quinn Co.

That sucker was $16 just for the gasket. I've also got the O ring that goes between the reservoir and the pump and the pump to tractor block gasket. I'll shift my attention back to this problem once I get the 8N back up and running.
 
(quoted from post at 18:24:44 10/02/16) One more question on this pump. I think it's leaking between the bottom of the reservoir and the top of the pump. So I ordered the O ring that goes in there.

So, when I replace the pump, the book says to fill the reservoir and run it, then fill it again if needed.

[b[color=red:4235bf7310]]My question is this. When I initially fill the reservoir can I run the tractor without the top on it, or will it throw oil all over the place?[/color:4235bf7310]
[/b]
With the loader frame right in front of the pump, it's kind of a PIA to put that cap on while holding that heavy spring down under it. I'd rather get it to the correct level before putting the cap on the last time.

The answer to the above in red is NO. I found out the hard way. It shot oil straight up out or the reservoir. Good thing I had my nephew watching it while I started the engine. I shut it down right away but still had a mess to clean up.
 
(quoted from post at 18:24:44 10/02/16) One more question on this pump. I think it's leaking between the bottom of the reservoir and the top of the pump. So I ordered the O ring that goes in there.

So, when I replace the pump, the book says to fill the reservoir and run it, then fill it again if needed.

My question is this. When I initially fill the reservoir can I run the tractor without the top on it, or will it throw oil all over the place?

With the loader frame right in front of the pump, it's kind of a PIA to put that cap on while holding that heavy spring down under it. I'd rather get it to the correct level before putting the cap on the last time.

I'm a bit late to help you specifically- maybe it'll help others: you did not need to remove the pump to replace that o-ring between the reservoir and pump. Remove the one bolt in the bottom of the reservoir first, then grab a large allen key and put the short end through the sideways drilled hole in the stub in the bottom of the reservoir with the long end sticking up out of the reservoir. Grab a ratchet and socket that matches the size of your allen key and just turn it out. That's what I did and it worked like a charm.

I wish I'd caught this earlier, would have saved you a bit of time. It only took me 10 minutes to replace that o-ring, including cleaning everything for a proper fit.
 
(quoted from post at 06:30:25 11/23/16)
(quoted from post at 18:24:44 10/02/16) One more question on this pump. I think it's leaking between the bottom of the reservoir and the top of the pump. So I ordered the O ring that goes in there.

So, when I replace the pump, the book says to fill the reservoir and run it, then fill it again if needed.

My question is this. When I initially fill the reservoir can I run the tractor without the top on it, or will it throw oil all over the place?

With the loader frame right in front of the pump, it's kind of a PIA to put that cap on while holding that heavy spring down under it. I'd rather get it to the correct level before putting the cap on the last time.

I'm a bit late to help you specifically- maybe it'll help others: you did not need to remove the pump to replace that o-ring between the reservoir and pump. Remove the one bolt in the bottom of the reservoir first, then grab a large allen key and put the short end through the sideways drilled hole in the stub in the bottom of the reservoir with the long end sticking up out of the reservoir. Grab a ratchet and socket that matches the size of your allen key and just turn it out. That's what I did and it worked like a charm.

I wish I'd caught this earlier, would have saved you a bit of time. It only took me 10 minutes to replace that o-ring, including cleaning everything for a proper fit.

It's hard enough to get the reservoir top back on with the loader frame right in the way. I don't know how anyone could get any tools in there to remove that reservoir when you can't even see what you're doing.
 
(quoted from post at 08:21:09 11/23/16)
It's hard enough to get the reservoir top back on with the loader frame right in the way. I don't know how anyone could get any tools in there to remove that reservoir when you can't even see what you're doing.

Lift the loader all the way up in the air before you start. If you do that first you can see in enough to do what you need. I just lifted the loader all the way, rested the bucket on my retaining wall (just in case of sudden leakage) and shut the machine down.

My reservoir was empty, but if it wasn't I'd have used a turkey baster to remove any remaining fluid. I felt around the bottom for the bolt I had to remove, pulled it, then realized that center suction piece held the reservoir in place as well. That's when I thought of the allen key trick.
 
(quoted from post at 10:30:19 11/23/16)
(quoted from post at 08:21:09 11/23/16)
It's hard enough to get the reservoir top back on with the loader frame right in the way. I don't know how anyone could get any tools in there to remove that reservoir when you can't even see what you're doing.

Lift the loader all the way up in the air before you start. If you do that first you can see in enough to do what you need. I just lifted the loader all the way, rested the bucket on my retaining wall (just in case of sudden leakage) and shut the machine down.

My reservoir was empty, but if it wasn't I'd have used a turkey baster to remove any remaining fluid. I felt around the bottom for the bolt I had to remove, pulled it, then realized that center suction piece held the reservoir in place as well. That's when I thought of the allen key trick.

It's not the loader arms that are in the way. It's the loader frame as you can see in the picture and that frame doesn't move. Then a couple inches from that frame is the tractor hood.

There is no way I could get both hands up in there and manipulate any tools as well. It's enough trouble just getting that reservoir top bolt started, then getting a small ratchet with a swiveling head on it to tighten down that bolt. There is no way I could have gotten to the inside of that reservoir to do anything.

When I got the pump off, I did use an allen wrench with the short end through the center piece and a socket on the end of the allen wrench to get that center piece out.

DSC03762_zpsha2tamnh.jpg
 
I've replaced all TOUGH to get at CAP SCREWS with 12 POINT Cap screws and use 1/4 or 3/8 drive universal sockets...eg...JD Carbs, Massey Ferguson FE-35 STARTER bolts...

Possibly this could work for you?

Bob..
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