rockepg

Member
Ok guys now that i have all the seals replaced and water drained out.. I am testing the 3-point lift and have a question. The position control lever only works when the draft control is in the full upright position. When the draft is maybe an inch off the top things settle and the position does nothing again. The draft control assembly doesn't move at all either regardless of position. Also the lift shutters near the top and has hard time going all the way up. Put pressure gauge on and it shows about 200 psi. If i stand on the blade that is hooked up it goes up to about 350 psi. Took the side cover off and looked around inside while moving it up and down. Nothing appears stuck that i can see. The draft cylinder leaks a decent amount of fluid when fully extended so that may need rebuild. The safety valve is not leaking. I can't really see the pressure control valve, think it may be under oil but not sure. There is a lot of oil being flung up onto the side of the case where the pump is and churning in general. Oil gets really foamy after the engine is off. Is that normal? With all the foam its like air is getting agitated into the oil. Stand pipe does not seem to be leaking from either top or bottom that i can tell. The lift speed does change with the side lever so that seems to be ok.
If i shut the engine off the blade stays up and slowly sinks over about a 5 minute period. Is that because of the lift cylinder leaking a bit?
 
Ok did some more research and apparently the lift is only supposed to operate with the draft lever all the way up. Seems strange but is what it is i guess. That leave the pressure problem. One thing to note is when i got this tractor it had about a gallon of water in the transmission. It sat for a while and when i drained it out nothing but water came out for the first few seconds and the stick was showing over filled. It sat a couple winters like this before i got it and am thinking the pump might be shot with the water down there freezing. Any thought on a more definitive test before i pull the thing? Will be taking off the top cover anyway to rebuild, or replace, the lift cylinder.
 
That is the way the position control works with the draft control lever all the up. The draft control is used when using ground penetrating implements like a plow. There is a operator manual just for the MF hydraulics. I may have it on file in my computer somewhere (I just need to find it). With the hydraulic pump sitting in water it probably needs to be gone through. You will need to remove the lift cover which isn't light weight. Get a shop manual before trying to work on it. The chatter when lifting could be caused by a sticking control valve, and or the sealing rings in the lift cylinder, since your 3 point drops pretty quick the lift cylinder seals needs replacing. You have to have the lift cover off to replace the lift cylinder seals anyways so might as well do the seals, and pump.
 
Ya the operators manual is where i learned how those controls actually work. Still good to have confirmation that i was reading it correctly, thanks. Any idea which rebuild kit i should get for the pump or do i have to wait and see how many splines are on it before ordering parts? It's a 66 mf135, live pto and 6 speed tranny. Nothing fancy. Any quirks with a massey pump i should be aware of? Have done other types of pumps and they are not to difficult but each has there quirks and challenges when you least expect them. Rebuilding the lift cylinder seems pretty straight forward from what i have seen. Hopefully it's not scored to badly and just needs a new piston and rings. Have the shop manual so will do, or at least check, all the internal adjustments while i am at it.
 
Ya the operators manual is where i learned how those controls actually work. Still good to have confirmation that i was reading it correctly, thanks. Any idea which rebuild kit i should get for the pump or do i have to wait and see how many splines are on it before ordering parts? It's a 66 mf135, live pto and 6 speed tranny. Nothing fancy. Any quirks with a massey pump i should be aware of? Have done other types of pumps and they are not to difficult but each has there quirks and challenges when you least expect them. Rebuilding the lift cylinder seems pretty straight forward from what i have seen. Hopefully it's not scored to badly and just needs a new piston and rings. Have the shop manual so will do, or at least check, all the internal adjustments while i am at it.
 
Yup saw that. I did splurge and get the agco books. Expensive but well worth it in the long run. Have the cover unbolted and ready to pull, just need to figure out something to attach to the front seat hole to hook the come along up to. The roller came out the side really easy, not sure if that is a bad omen or not lol...
 
Ok so got the top cover off. Ya that sucker is heavy but that was expected. The lift cylinder is heavily scored on the bottom third and will need to be replaced :( Reason for the leaking no doubt. Imagine if i had full pressure in there, it would be raining oil lol.. The pump is out as well. Physically it doesn't look like there is any freeze damage. The intake piece with the filter on it has a huge hole right next to it sucking in raw oil. No point to even have a filter on it. In the essence of time i'll probably just get a new pump and keep this one for later and rebuild it as a spare. Did find out the rock shaft bushing are heavily worn on one side and should be replaced so will have to dig those up.
Found a tiny L shaped piece of aluminum with a tiny screw through it in the sump bottom. When i get a chance i'll get a picture posted and see if someone can tell me what it goes to. Isn't the stand pipe supposed to have "special" washers on the ends along with the o-rings? the one i pulled off only had two o-rings on each end.
 
Looks like 886029M1 is the part number for the shaft bushings. Anyone have a source for these? Can't seem to find any..
 
That part number also crosses to MF part number 3611558M1. You may try calling YT they have more parts than what they list. The measurements of the bushing is LENGTH 72mm , INTERNAL DIA 56mm , OUTER DIA 61mm APPROX
 
didn't load pics..
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Ok so got the top cover pulled apart. Didn't realize it would have to gut the thing to get the cylinder out, oh well. Good thing though cuz the linkage pivot pin was broken and came out in two pieces. All the new parts should be here this week. YT was able to source those new rock shaft bushings too.
Did do some quick checks before i pulled things apart and nothing was adjusted correctly based on the book settings. The bracket for the draft adjustment bolt was even bent back a bit. Clearly someone had been in there before.

2 questions..
1) The mfn-163 tool.. Is the purpose of that to just hold the dashpot piston all the way out during adjustment? If that is the case i can improvise something to do the same.

2) The mfn-970 tool.. I read somewhere else that you can use a 3/8 bolt between the cover and the lift arm and be good. Can anyone confirm that? Also is that the threaded part or the bolt head?
 
Ok my parts are here finally and am ready to assemble and adjust. I have confirmed that the one is to hold the plunger extended and is easy to improvise. Need input on how people are setting the lift arm without that 970 tool. The arm already has a shiny spot along with a corresponding shiny spot on the differential case from where they were rubbing together. Want to get this right..
 
Unfortunately i dont have a mill to make my own. Was hoping someone had an alternate method of coming up with the same gap.
 
I have that same picture in my manual. I assume that "clearance" arrow is supposed to be on the other side of the lever? Like the draft control linkage adjustment procedure shows?
 
Another way instead of the 970 tool is to fully raise, and mark the lift arms to the lift cover. You have to do this before removing the lift cover (or you can set the lift cover on, bolt it down with a few bolts, mark it, then take the cover back off). Then line the marks back up before making the adjustments.

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Hmm.. Since you can manually raise the arms until the lift arm hits the housing would it not make more sense to back it off slightly once it's topped out and then mark?
 
(quoted from post at 13:38:25 10/19/16) Hmm.. Since you can manually raise the arms until the lift arm hits the housing would it not make more sense to back it off slightly once it's topped out and then mark?


You can do that, that just stops how high it can lift. If you go past it you run the risk of busting the top cover, or worse.
 
Ok so finally got a chance to work on this. Have everything together and making the adjustments and have a question. With the 3lb hooked up to the lever i make both adjustments per the book. Should i be able to go back and forth between the settings and have the adjustment remain the same or is it a set it and forget it type thing? I know its difficult to get the draft arm between the marks exactly the way it was the first time so i am guessing i shouldn't worry about it? I set with a .0015 feeler and .002 would not fit unless i pushed it.
 
Got everything ready to slide back together and realized i did not have a gasket. Could have sworn i ordered one but guess not. So new back to waiting. Oh, ptfarmer i ordered that seat as well as the gasket. Figured i needed to add something to the order to justify the shipping lol.. :)
 

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