New here and going to get a MH 33 tomorrow!

Bensjamming

New User
Well I'm lacking out and getting a super deal on a MH 33 or so I was told. He said it was a 1949 but after reading some that model wasn't made in 49. I'm thinking it may have the year messed up but it still has the number plate on the right side with the serial numbers and stuff that should be easy enough time figure out once I have it.

Is there anything I should be looking at that is common to be bad with these Massy's? About 29 years ago he said he spun a crank bearing so brought it in and has the entire motor rebuilt including align honing and decking the head surface. 2 weeks ago when I was there and seen it for the first time it fired up immediately after sitting for 6 months so I know it runs good. Had the hydraulic lift but the pto is higher the the top link mount. Is there any way to mount a 3pt brush hog or post hold let digger to this without having to find that special top link with the large ring in it? Could I fab a bracket that would just raise the top link up over the pto and get a lon get top link? If anyone has any pics of what they did to make it work it would be appreciated. Also is there any place that one can still get that style top link with the ring to keep it original?

Also it's a gas model with three narrow dual Tire front end. Not sure if it has a hand clutch or not yet. Will get some pictures of it tomorrow and post them here for anyone who cares to check them out. I know I'm excited as this will be my 3rd tractor. Already have a 42 AC model C and a 59 Ford 881 Powermaster but this is my first massey.

Thanks in advance and any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Ben
 
Easy to tell a 33, it will have an ohv engine vs the flathead in a 30. A 44 will have
an similar but longer engine and should have 260 stamped on the upper rear right side
of the engine vs. 201 on the 33. It will have a foot clutch unless equipped with live
pto, then it will have a foot and a hand clutch. Good tractor, manifolds can rust out
and are not reported. Loose steering can also be an issue, but can be tightened up.
Good luck, let's see some Pictures! Ben
 
You will have to get the proper top link, or make something up. Raise the pto shaft
on the implement as high as needed at the first support bearing, nearest the
tractor.They did operate all era equipment when new, some new stuff may not be
adaptable to the high pto shaft location. Ben
 
OK thanks alot. Can't wait to go pick her up in the morning. The only stuff I'd have to run off the pto are a 5 ft rotary mower and a post hole digger. All the other stuff is box blades, landscape rakes, etc.... just like to play around with them up at out camp mowing trails and deer food plots.

I will take some pics of it right away and post them up along with some more questions I'm sure I'll end up having. The wife's grandfather is just giving it to me along with the AC Model C that he gave me. I went and picked that one up 2 weeks ago and this one is this weekend.

I feel like a kid at Christmas time all over again! :D
 
Make SURE and get an overrunning clutch for the mower, the mower will push the tractor if you do not have one.
 
(quoted from post at 19:02:54 09/23/16) Yup, get or make the special link and keep the u joints greased real well.

So making a bracket to bring the mounting point of the top link on the tractor above the pto will not work if I had a longer top link?
 
Well, it might, but it will change the geometry of the mounted equipment, and it may
be difficult to control it's working angle, it may look OK raised, but when lowered,
the pto angle might get too sharp. Also, there may not be a strong enough mounting
point above the pto shaft. Ben
 
Well I made it to go and pick up the MH today. After looking a little more its actually a MH 333 I believe. The Model number on the tag is 333G1RF and serial number is 22003. From what I gathered its a 1956 made late in the year according to the serial. Glad to see that as it moves the rear PTO and link arrangement around from the 33 which would need the previously mentioned special top link so I should be able to use our brush mower and post hole digger with it when needed.

The thing just purrs like a kitten. Touch the start button and it fires right up within a second. It does have the hand clutch as well, the transmission with the high/low selector giving it 10 speeds forward and 2 reverse. Everything works on it and was told the only things known to be wrong with it are the hydraulic cylinder leaks a little out of the seal around the shaft but still works and said it would lower down if left for a weeks in the up position. Since I dont plan on holding anything up via the 3 point for weeks at a time its not real rush for me to get it fixed right away. The other thing he said he thinks is wrong is a seal on the inside which will leak oil onto the clutch it left park on an uphill incline I believe he said.

Any how here is some pics of the wonderful man that gave me his pride and joys. One of the nicest most loving individuals I have had the pleasure of meeting and having in my life. It was hard for him to let his babies go but at least he can come up anytime and go for a ride on them so its not like a total stranger has drove off with them for him to never see them again.







Hope you all enjoy and if there is any tips, info, or things I should know for the 333 compared to the 33 please let me know. Been doing all my reading and research on the 33 so gonna have to find out the differences between the 2.

Thanks in advance, Ben
 
Good looking tractor. Not a lot of differences between the 33 and 333....other than
the ten speed and pto placement. 333 should be 12 volt and has the 208 engine, a few
more horsepower. The 333 engine is gold coloured, the rims appear to be the correct
colour. It looks like he put a sheild beside the carburetor to direct heat from the
rad to it to prevent the carb from icing...it shouldn't need to have it, but it won't
hurt anything. Get the few missing chrome trim for the grille and the correct the
decals, a pulley or shaft cap and make her look pretty! Ben
 
Any idea where one could get the stuff needed to rebuild the depth o matic cylinder on the rear for the lift arms? It's leaking around the shaft slowly and want to try my hand at doing one myslf.

Also with me never doing a cylinder rebuild before is this not a good one to try it out on? Better off to bring it somewhere?
 
Myself, I would bring it to a hydraulic shop or implement dealer for repair, simply
because that is kind of an oddball cylinder, and I would be afraid of damaging it
beyond repair. Probably not a big job if you are handy. Ben
 
Question for ya guys. On the parking brake pedal is there supposed to be a spring or something on it to keep the pedal up? On mine everytime I push the brake the it sets the parking brake since the pedal end is heavier and keeps it down.

Could I just add weight to the end with the teeth I'd nothing else?
 

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