What 35 do I have? or does it matter :)

Partsguy

New User
Hello all,
I just purchased my first tractor Friday night from my wifes grandfather.

It works great and I'm really happy with it.

He told me that it is a 1960 Massey Ferguson MF35 gas.
The stickers on the hood does say MF35.

But the serial number plate on the dash say T0-35
SGM I78I92?
Massey Harris Ferguson INC

Does anyone know what it really is ? or is this common for it to have mf35 and T0-35 markers?

Thanks
 
It will make a big difference it it does not have a live pto clutch,

It would be like the old fords and Ferguson but surely they would not still make the clutch pto set up for a 1958 model,

Could be just a cheaper old style pan seat, maybe no lights, no power spread wheels,
 
I have not tryed the PTO yet but Her grandfather said he put a new duel stage clutch in not too long ago. Would that not mean a live PTO?

i took some pictures, Im not sure if this will work

https://www.flickr.com/photos/146788024@N02/shares/4pG08i
 
Sorry the pictures didnt work
ill try again
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/Partsguy1/embed/slideshow/"></iframe>
 

Sorry this is a mess
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So I actually went out and tried the PTO tonight. If i press the clutch even half way the tractor stops and also the pto, So I would assume this doesn't have the live PTO?
 
(quoted from post at 18:43:30 09/07/16) So I actually went out and tried the PTO tonight. If i press the clutch even half way the tractor stops and also the pto, So I would assume this doesn't have the live PTO?
check Fena web sight that ser# is a late 1957 and some of the late ones were red .and the sgm is a two stage clutch :roll:
 
On the bottom of the bell housing there maybe be a plate with 4 bolts holding it on. If it has it pull that plate off, and you should be able to see the clutch, get a picture of it if you can.
 

SGM is the designation for a dual clutch . It may need adjusting seeing that it doesn't respond to your foot as it should . The inspection plate is under the bell housing , remove this and find the adjuster bolts . They are soft and difficult to loosen so be careful not to round off the heads . These bolts should be adjusted by using a normal hacksaw blade as a feeler gauge , one thickness of the blade for each bolt .

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Thanks for the information! I will check tonight!

One thing I notice is the clutch is much harder to depress than my fathers MF135

Even my uncle ( who has many tractors) commented that it must have a really strong pressure plate.

Could this have any bearing on my problem?
 
You need to adjust the clearance on the clutch like Charles in Aus shows in the picture he posed. If that gap is too tight you will be disengaging both stages at the same time.
 

I have only ever used one thickness but now that PT Farmer has pointed out the workshop recommendation I am off to the shed to measure the blade I use :)
 
Well I pulled the inspection cover and you guys were right. The adjusters were hard up with no gap at all.

I used one hack saw blade and now the pedal is much better and the tractor will stop while allowing the pto to turn!

Sorry for all the foolish questions and thanks a million for the help
 
(quoted from post at 16:32:03 09/08/16) Well I pulled the inspection cover and you guys were right. The adjusters were hard up with no gap at all.

I used one hack saw blade and now the pedal is much better and the tractor will stop while allowing the pto to turn!

Sorry for all the foolish questions and thanks a million for the help




The only way to learn is to ask questions, no matter how simple the question maybe.
 

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