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Boot for Hydraylic lift top link

C

Cormiers Cove

Member
What is involved in replacing the boot for the hydraulic lift top link as shown in the photo below?

Is there a simple way to do it or do I have to remove the lift cover?

Any input is greatly appreciated

Thanks

Scott
39733.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:27:56 08/27/16) What is involved in replacing the boot for the hydraulic lift top link as shown in the photo below?

Is there a simple way to do it or do I have to remove the lift cover?

Any input is greatly appreciated

Thanks

Scott
39733.jpg
Click to expand...

Hi,

In part #6 there is a small allen lock screw. After taking the lock screw out, the whole #6 screws out from inside the lift cover tube. If it's not rusted tight it can be unscrewn simply with an angle grinder key.. I just did mine o 168 and it wasn't stuck or anything so pretty easy to get out.

After you have the whole assemby out, then it's easy to figrure out how the rest of it comes apart.

Do you have instructions about how to assemble it correctly? I don't remember it off-hand, but it's required the spring and the nut are tensioned correctly for the system to work as intended.
 
Don't you have to take off the plunger from the clevis/yoke to replace the boot as just loosening the nut will only allow you to remove the entire mechanism from the housing?

I hear that the hardest part is removing the yoke/clevis from the plunger rod as it's threaded onto each other.

I don't imagine there is a way to just remove the clevis/yoke from the plunger rod without removing the entire unit from the housing? Wouldn't it just spin around inside the spring as nothing really holds it in place?

Thanks

Scott
 
(quoted from post at 22:34:57 08/28/16) Don't you have to take off the plunger from the clevis/yoke to replace the boot as just loosening the nut will only allow you to remove the entire mechanism from the housing?

I hear that the hardest part is removing the yoke/clevis from the plunger rod as it's threaded onto each other.

I don't imagine there is a way to just remove the clevis/yoke from the plunger rod without removing the entire unit from the housing? Wouldn't it just spin around inside the spring as nothing really holds it in place?

Thanks

Scott
Click to expand...

Hi

The yoke at least on my case unscrewed pretty easily from the plunger. It has a locking pin to hold it from unscrewing itself.
I guess it could be somehow possible to hold the plunger still with some pliers etc. However I see little point in doing that, since you only need to unscred #6 to get the whole thing out. Also when you remove the whole assembly you can clean up the insides of the top cover, mine had quite a bit of dirt inside as the boot had been broken for a good while.
 
You are correct, Scott.

The whole thing has to come out. The rod just spins. I've generally had to cut the rod with a hacksaw through the spring, so I could hold it in a vise to unscrew it. One was rusted so solid I had to drill it out, and then clean up the threads in the clevis. Hindsight - should have bought a new clevis for that one!

Part of the problem is the 5/8" or so rubber plug in the back of the clevis hole (# 12) - it's gone after 30 years or so, and the trapped water rusts the rod very firmly into the clevis.

During reassembly, I grease the rod threads well, and pack that hole full with grease.
 
(quoted from post at 04:49:53 08/29/16) You are correct, Scott.

The whole thing has to come out. The rod just spins. I've generally had to cut the rod with a hacksaw through the spring, so I could hold it in a vise to unscrew it. One was rusted so solid I had to drill it out, and then clean up the threads in the clevis. Hindsight - should have bought a new clevis for that one!

Part of the problem is the 5/8" or so rubber plug in the back of the clevis hole (# 12) - it's gone after 30 years or so, and the trapped water rusts the rod very firmly into the clevis.

During reassembly, I grease the rod threads well, and pack that hole full with grease.
Click to expand...

I suppose having slightly leaking remotes just above the top link was somewhat benefical for me - no rust and the parts came apart with no effort at all..
 
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