Massey 202 wont move

ddlt1

New User
Does anyone have any help or info how to change the Sheer tube on my tractor.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
If there's no three point lift cover the coupler can be replaced through the side cover holes easily. With three point it can still be done through the left side, but it's not as easy.
 
I do not have a 3 point lift cover. Would it be possible if you can send me a link or give me some more info on it.

Thanks
 
Even without a 3 point lift cover it should still have a non 3 point top cover that can be removed..
9bm7va.jpg
 
That is the cover I have, Just hoping someone could give me some info on replacing the coupler.
Thanks for the pictures.
 
It's not to hard to replace the shear tube, it has a cotter pin than keeps it in place. Remove the cotter pin, slide the shear tube back, and then you should be able to remove the rear shaft with the tube on it.
 
(quoted from post at 14:17:48 08/25/16) It's not to hard to replace the shear tube, it has a cotter pin than keeps it in place. Remove the cotter pin, slide the shear tube back, and then you should be able to remove the rear shaft with the tube on it.

Being the new owner of a 202 workbull myself can you explain what this shear tube is and does the OP mean that the whole tractor won't move even in gear?
 
Think of the shear tube like its a electrical fuse, its made to prevent major damage to the transmission incase of an overload. When it does break the tractor will not move in any gear, the tube connects the transmission to the rearend.
 
Come to find out my cotter pin fell out and allowed the assembly to drop down into the bottom. The reason was that the rear pinion bearing was loose and allowed to wear the cotter pin out.
I can spin the nut by hand so I guess the next question is do I tighten the nut snug or do I use a brass chisel and hammer to tighten it. Also what kind of oil do you recommend that I should use.

Thanks for all you Help sure is a great Forum to be on.
 
Thanks again for all your Help. I figured out my problem on the Nut. Someone at one time replaced the Bearing and did not bend down the lock ring for the nut. Problem solved.
Also figured out what I need for oil.

Thanks Again for all your Help
 
(quoted from post at 09:27:21 08/26/16) Thanks again for all your Help. I figured out my problem on the Nut. Someone at one time replaced the Bearing and did not bend down the lock ring for the nut. Problem solved.
Also figured out what I need for oil.

Thanks Again for all your Help

What did you figure out you need for oil?
 
(quoted from post at 17:03:48 08/26/16) Find a transmission/hydraulic oil that meets MF spec M-1110.

The operators manual on my 202 says to use straight mineral gear oil S.A.E. 90.

That would be Traveller GL1-90.
 
(quoted from post at 17:10:49 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:03:48 08/26/16) Find a transmission/hydraulic oil that meets MF spec M-1110.

The operators manual on my 202 says to use straight mineral gear oil S.A.E. 90.

That would be Traveller GL1-90.



The MF parts book for the 202 says MF spec M-1110. The mineral oil would probably be ok in California since it doesn't get really cold there. If it does get cold you need to let it warm-up before really using it.
 
(quoted from post at 17:15:15 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:10:49 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:03:48 08/26/16) Find a transmission/hydraulic oil that meets MF spec M-1110.

The operators manual on my 202 says to use straight mineral gear oil S.A.E. 90.

That would be Traveller GL1-90.



The MF parts book for the 202 says MF spec M-1110. The mineral oil would probably be ok in California since it doesn't get really cold there. If it does get cold you need to let it warm-up before really using it.

Are you talking about an original MF 50 year old parts book? The parts book I have is 320 pages and says nothing about fluids, only parts.
 
(quoted from post at 17:31:41 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:15:15 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:10:49 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:03:48 08/26/16) Find a transmission/hydraulic oil that meets MF spec M-1110.

The operators manual on my 202 says to use straight mineral gear oil S.A.E. 90.

That would be Traveller GL1-90.



The MF parts book for the 202 says MF spec M-1110. The mineral oil would probably be ok in California since it doesn't get really cold there. If it does get cold you need to let it warm-up before really using it.

Are you talking about an original MF 50 year old parts book? The parts book I have is 320 pages and says nothing about fluids, only parts.



AGCO's online part lookup, enter in the model number, and select the brand, and it will take you to it. http://agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/Default.aspx?
 
(quoted from post at 18:39:19 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:31:41 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:15:15 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:10:49 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:03:48 08/26/16) Find a transmission/hydraulic oil that meets MF spec M-1110.

The operators manual on my 202 says to use straight mineral gear oil S.A.E. 90.

That would be Traveller GL1-90.



The MF parts book for the 202 says MF spec M-1110. The mineral oil would probably be ok in California since it doesn't get really cold there. If it does get cold you need to let it warm-up before really using it.

Are you talking about an original MF 50 year old parts book? The parts book I have is 320 pages and says nothing about fluids, only parts.



AGCO's online part lookup, enter in the model number, and select the brand, and it will take you to it. http://agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/Default.aspx?

OK, I took a look for 202 Massey Ferguson, there were headings for 346 pages but I didn't see anything about fluids at all.
 
(quoted from post at 19:04:58 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 18:39:19 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:31:41 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:15:15 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:10:49 08/26/16)
(quoted from post at 17:03:48 08/26/16) Find a transmission/hydraulic oil that meets MF spec M-1110.

The operators manual on my 202 says to use straight mineral gear oil S.A.E. 90.

That would be Traveller GL1-90.



The MF parts book for the 202 says MF spec M-1110. The mineral oil would probably be ok in California since it doesn't get really cold there. If it does get cold you need to let it warm-up before really using it.

Are you talking about an original MF 50 year old parts book? The parts book I have is 320 pages and says nothing about fluids, only parts.



AGCO's online part lookup, enter in the model number, and select the brand, and it will take you to it. http://agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/Default.aspx?

OK, I took a look for 202 Massey Ferguson, there were headings for 346 pages but I didn't see anything about fluids at all.


You have to at the pages closely, look very closely on page 346
 

Ok, I'm officially an idiot. The last page in my printed manual has the same thing. I saw the drawings of the cans and thought it was just about paint so I didn't pay any attention to what was printed on the next page.

You were 100% correct. :oops: :oops: :oops:

So...now I'm wondering if that MF-1110 is mineral oil?
 
As I said my 202 owners manual says to use 90 wt mineral oil, so I filled it with GL1-90.

Since that parts manual says M-1110, when I was at TSC today, I looked at what they had. Their universal hydraulic / trans fluid listed it as compatible with Massey Ferguson M-1110.

But this Universal hydraulic fluid says it's 10-30 weight on the front of the container.

So why the two different fluids? How can they recommend 30 weight or 90 weight? I don't get this.
 
The M-1110 spec is 10-30 oil. All non-synthetic oils are mineral oil based. The 90wt mineral oil used in the older tractors was used because it was cheap to make, it simply relied on the thickness of the oil to provide a cushion between gears. Oil has come a long ways as far as technology/additives go, so newer oils can be thinner but provide just as good, or better wear protection because of additives put in them.[/b]
 
(quoted from post at 16:04:58 08/27/16) The M-1110 spec is 10-30 oil. All non-synthetic oils are mineral oil based. The 90wt mineral oil used in the older tractors was used because it was cheap to make, it simply relied on the thickness of the oil to provide a cushion between gears. Oil has come a long ways as far as technology/additives go, so newer oils can be thinner but provide just as good, or better wear protection because of additives put in them.[/b]

Thanks, that makes sense but will the 90 weight oil work better in an old worn pump? If it had any leaks wouldn't the thinner oil be more prone to the leaks?

So is mineral oil a product of petroleum?
 
(quoted from post at 18:06:59 08/27/16)
Thanks, that makes sense but will the 90 weight oil work better in an old worn pump? If it had any leaks wouldn't the thinner oil be more prone to the leaks?

So is mineral oil a product of petroleum?



The 90wt mineral oil (dino oil, fossil oil, petroleum, or whatever) will work/seal better on a worn pump, or worn seals on the lift cylinder. 90wt gear oil is a different animal than 90wt mineral oil so don't use gear oil! In colder temperatures in winter time you will need to let the mineral oil warm up some before use. Since you are in southern California I doubt you have very many really cold winter days.
 

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