MF135 transmission case vent

rockepg · Aug 21, 2016

Hey guys quick question. Does anyone know where the transmission case vent is located? Have water in the oil and am looking for potential sources. Already replaced both shifter boots. Under the seat on the left side top of the case there looks like a vent nipple there. The kind they used to use in the automotive world although this one, assuming its it, is missing the mushroom cover. Would that be the vent?

ptfarmer · Aug 21, 2016

That would be it, part number 182099M91 Breather Assembly.

rockepg · Aug 21, 2016

(quoted from post at 12:27:29 08/21/16) That would be it, part number 182099M91 Breather Assembly.

Ok found it.. any idea who would carry one? Did some searching around "the google" and results come up but actual sites do not carry the part.

Jack in NB · Aug 21, 2016

You could improvise a cover by using a snug fitting conduit plug, glued in place with a few blobs of silicon, leaving some air passages through the silicon.

And there are 5 possible water ingress points. You have uncovered three; the other two are around the transmission filler cap (missing gasket; I use silicon), and the boot around the top link attach point at the rear.

Replacing that is a real bugger - I finally resorted to slicing the new boot lengthwise and wiring and siliconing it in place with the cut seam at the bottom. That worked until I needed to remove the cover, which made the proper replacement easier. The whole bracket and the internal spring have to be removed, and the attach clevsis unscrewed from the actuating rod. Usually requires a new acuating rod. Not expensive, but a real pain!

rockepg · Aug 21, 2016

Ok i improvised.. Took an old .45acp case and crimped it at the shoulder. Put a blob of epoxy around the primer to seal it. Seems to work. The gasket around the filler plug is intact and should be fine. The top link attach point is interesting suggestion. If its where i am thinking it is there is no boot at all there. Have a pic of what it should look like?

ptfarmer · Aug 21, 2016

It's kind of like a shifter boot.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/887654M1_Draft-Control-Boot_20541.htm

rockepg · Aug 21, 2016

(quoted from post at 17:31:58 08/21/16) It's kind of like a shifter boot.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/887654M1_Draft-Control-Boot_20541.htm

Yep that is the area i was thinking. There is no boot at all there. :/

rockepg · Aug 21, 2016

So how loose is that plunger supposed to be? I can move it around quite a bit just not in and out.

ptfarmer · Aug 21, 2016

It shouldn't be that loose, it shouldn't move in, and out by hand, but you should be able to rotate it by hand. The spring could be broken inside.

rockepg · Aug 22, 2016

I can't move it in and out by hand. That seems to be pretty tight as it should be. But i can move it side to side and up and down very easily. I gather that it shouldn't be doing that? Time to read up on removing the top cover?

ptfarmer · Aug 22, 2016

Time to read up on the top cover, it shouldn't move up, down, side to side.

rockepg · Aug 22, 2016

So from what i see in the manual it looks like that assembly comes out the back without taking the cover off. Back out the set screw and break loose that keeper nut and slide the whole thing out. Is that correct?

ptfarmer · Aug 22, 2016

Yes, but that keeper nut can be a real bear to remove. Lots of times I've had to heat the casting where the nut is with a torch to help get it to come out.

rockepg · Aug 22, 2016

So got the unit out easy enough. That keeper nut came right off with a punch and hammer and a few "love taps". The tube was full of dirt and debris which i have mostly cleaned out. Nothing looks broken. One of the spring coils looks like it might be compressed as two are almost touching while the others have roughly even spacing. Really dont see anything there that would keep it from moving around like it was. Am i missing something? Have a new bolt/plunger on order since i have to replace the boot anyway. Think i should replace that spring considering how it looks? I can upload a pic if that would help..

ptfarmer · Aug 22, 2016

I would replace the spring.

rockepg · Aug 23, 2016

Ok have new spring on order too. I want to remove the side covers to get a look inside and see if there is any damage from the boot not being there for so long. Pulling the pto side cover is easy enough. Is there any trick for the response control cover? Manual says just remove the 4 bolts and pull it. There is not springs or anything i need to be aware of that will fall out is there? All the oil is drained out already.

ptfarmer · Aug 24, 2016

On the opposite of the pto cover there is no tricks.

rockepg · Sep 11, 2016

Ok got the draft control all put back together and reinstalled. Adjusted the tension with both levers down like the manual indicated. Almost no movement now which is good

So now that i have all the various boots replaced it's time to flush the inside. I have read about 2 gallons of diesel and 3 or 4 quarts of rubbing alchohol. Just to verify is this correct? Pour it all in and let it equalize then drive it around the yard slowly once. Does the hydraulics needs to be cycled to clean them out or just leave the levers down and not mess with it?
Drain it all out and let it sit for a couple days for a good drip then fill with oil. I have two pails of 303 oil that looks like it's compatible. Any opinions on this? I know the utf stuff seems to be popular but i got this stuff for free so figured i would use it.

rockepg · Sep 12, 2016

Any opinions guys?

ptfarmer · Sep 12, 2016

When I flush one out with diesel I never run the tractor, or hydraulics I just want to wash any trash out of it. After putting fresh oil in it I run/work it for a few hours, the drain the oil, and put new oil in it. If there is still evidence of water still in the system after working it I will do one more oil change.

rockepg · Sep 13, 2016

Ok fair enough. One last question.. No promises though

After i do the rinse i'll pop both side covers off to replace the o-rings and the hydraulic filter while i am there. Is there any reason i can't run the engine with the covers off so i can see inside for anything leaking that shouldn't be? Will put just enough oil in so it doesn't overflow of course..

ptfarmer · Sep 13, 2016

(quoted from post at 05:50:28 09/13/16) Ok fair enough. One last question.. No promises though
After i do the rinse i'll pop both side covers off to replace the o-rings and the hydraulic filter while i am there. Is there any reason i can't run the engine with the covers off so i can see inside for anything leaking that shouldn't be? Will put just enough oil in so it doesn't overflow of course..

Yes you can do that, that is one of the ways you can check the hydraulics.

Caryc · Sep 13, 2016

(quoted from post at 05:50:28 09/13/16) Ok fair enough. One last question.. No promises though
After i do the rinse i'll pop both side covers off to replace the o-rings and the hydraulic filter while i am there. Is there any reason i can't run the engine with the covers off so i can see inside for anything leaking that shouldn't be? Will put just enough oil in so it doesn't overflow of course..

Just don't stick your hand in there with it running.

MF135 transmission case vent

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