massey 35 perkins rebuild problem- discouraged

I just finished rebuilding my massey 35 3 cyl perkins. Use the tractor every day, been toughest two weeks ever.

I did a full rebuild and clutch. All went well, no extra parts, started well, sounds good. Very low oil pressure. Changed to a new guage, same reading.

I had 40 psi at idle and 60 at 1500 rpm before rebuild. Way too much blow by and hard cold starting. Rings were really bad and broken.

Now have 5 at idle and 10 at 1500 rpm.

Checked under valve cover - dry.

Ran for one minute and shut off.

Ran with no filtre element for 30 seconds, same reading.

Did all the work myself. Crank was turned. My name is George and I did not plastiguage. Bearings were stamped the appropriate undersize. I know I should have guaged it.

No external leaks anywhere.

Going to pull the pan off today to check.

Never realized how much I use this wonderful tractor.
 
I installed an rd-406 in a h-5 military truck that someone else assembled, same problem you have no oil pressure,turned out to be the bearings boxes were marked correct but the bearings weren't stamped with a size and they wound up with standard bearings on a 20/20 crank and I got the pleasure of repairing it, after that I always use plastic gauge even when I mic the crank myself.
 
I did the plastiguage on all the big ends and the front three mains. Did not do the back because of the seal.
All was perfect to spec, roughly all 0.002"

My local mechanic said that perhaps I did not let it run long enough to fill the galleries and cam shaft.

blew through the oil filtre ports, all was clear. pump looks great, measured to spec.

any other advice before I put the pan back on and try.

thanks everyone who suggests comments. thanks george
 
Just an update, took the pump off, measured to spec.

Poured lots of oil down from head. Ran motor again, same problem. Have oil at the cam inlet, just drips getting up to the rocker shaft. Essentially no oil to the head. Because the guage still says 5 and 10 psi, assuming the pressure is the problem.

When I removed the oil filtre housing and mount, and blow into the top hole, there is no resistance, just feels like air pouring into below the pistons. When you look closely, nothing out of ordinary. When I spray some WD 40 in the top hole, mist comes form every one of the main bearings. Should there be resistance when blowing into the top hole?

Really discouraged now, row crops need cutivating desperately, oh , why did I not do this in the winter!
thanks to everyone who helps, george
 
Sound like you got the wrong crank, and rod bearings (it happens to the best of us). You can measure the main, and rod journals with dial calipers. The standard main journal diameter is close to 2.7490". The standard rod journal diameter is close to 2.2490".
 
There was one comment above, I have confirmed all measurements and also plastiguaged, all are perfect, did not check the back main because of the seal, but the other three were right on the tight side of the tollerances.

I pulled the pan, third time today, replaced the oil pump with another new one, no difference all three times.

Main question and my only hint of a problem is the fact, when I blow into the top of the oil filtre ports, it sounds like I am just blowing freely into the area below the pistons. There is no visible problems, when I spray wd 40, mist comes out of all the main bearings.

Please help, desperate, thanks george
 
Make sure the oil pump pickup isn't restricted, how about the line going from the oil pump to the block are seals good?.
Are the 2 metal lines outside of the block by the starter clear (not restricted).
What oil filter are you using? The old canister type, or the spin-on? If it is the canister style are all the internal seals, and springs in it (are they in the proper positions)? For the canister style there is 3 different filter housings,
What is the engine serial number (engine serial number will be like 1842318, it will be either above that number, or below it).
 

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