135 Axle Pivot Pin / Crank Pully & Loader Pump

Put rear axle seals and brake shoes on and now I have this tractor to a point where I can use it and see what it does.

The next thing I will be doing though is getting the loader on it. I think the bushing is missing for the front axle pivot pin. Take a look at the first picture below. The pin is pointed upwards. If I put the jack under the bumper on front it will straighten the pin up. Can I straighten the pin up and put a new bushing on or do I really need to pull the front axle and put a new pin in as well?

Along the same lines, I'm not sure my crank pulley will work for the loader pump. The second picture is my pulley which does not have mounting holes for the shaft adapter, which is the third picture. The left side of picture attaches to pump and right side to pulley. Do I need to get a pulley with mounting holes or is there a way to get this pump shaft rigged up? In the picture the shaft is cut because the guy that took the loader off his tractor could not get it to break loose.

You need the front pulley part number 734628M1 which is the 3 bolt pulley. Since your tractor has the swept back front axle the pivot pin shouldn't move in the front support, does your tractor have a bolt in the front support pin that should keep it from rotating. The center of the front axle should have a bushing in it, and that should be the only place where it is loose on the pin.

Ok on the pulley. I have attached 3 pictures below of the pivot pin. It looks like there could have been a bolt for the lower hole but if there was it has snapped off. It almost seems like the front axle leans slightly and that's why the pin doesn't appear to sit straight. When I put pressure on the front bumper with the jack it takes the lean out. I'm pretty sure there is no bushing there.

If this ends up being a mess to fix, I assume that using a diverter valve under the seat is an option too, I just won't have the flow rate like I would with the front mounted pump. Correct?

I have repaired the axle pivot holes in the front supports of tractors so they can be fixed, or you can just get a new replacement for $300 - $400. It also could be just a worn out pin, you won't know until it's out. Running a loader off a diverter valve it will be painfully slow at 4 gpm. Your average industrial loader/backhoe has around a 20 gpm pump, but something around 12 - 14 gpm would be fine.

I've rebuilt several of those front axle /in setups (35's, and I think the 135's are the same) over the years.

A couple had the bushings completely worn through and the pin had chewed into the front axle. These had had loaders fitted.

I built up the damaged hole with braze and ground it roughly to fit the bushing, using my die grinder. A coarse rat tail file would also work. No need to be precise - the bushings are quite substantial.

Then I drilled and tapped the top center of the axle for a 1/4 x 28 right angle grease fitting. Right angle so it clears the rad fan shroud.

Then I put TWO bushings in - front and rear, thinking that would serve better than one, and regular greasing should prolong the life still further.

New pins were installed, and the retainer bolt repaired where needed.

Now, as I think back from my 78 year old vantage point, I wonder if all that was really necessary. After all, the originals had lasted 35 - 40 years, and my reworking could be expected to last even longer.

80 to 100 year old 35's ? ? ?

Well, just maybe.. They're coming up to 60 starting next year!

ok. Here's my plan. Some of this work is beyond my capabilities and tool availability. I am fitting a loader to this tractor so I want to do this properly.

First question........Should I support the front end with wood blocks under the oil pan or the clutch access plate? I've read it can be done at both spots.

Does the following plan sound reasonable? After the shop does their work is it a good idea to just have them assemble the support, bushings, center axle and pin? Then I don't have to mess with it trying to get everything pressed into position. There is a shop local to me that is run by Amish. They can do anything and they are very reasonable priced.

If I can't get the pin out. Pull the whole setup (support, pin, center axle) and take to shop. Have them disassemble and repair as needed (or replace with new if anything too far gone). Have them remove the pin retainer bolt that appears to have been snapped off. There is about a 1/4 inch nub protruding. Have them assemble everything back to whole (support, bushings, center axle, pin) with new pin, two bushings and anything else that requires replacing.

If I can get the pin out, I will still take all parts to them separated and have them repair and reassemble and provide back to me in whole.

I support it from both, the clutch access plate, and the oil pan (can never be too careful). As long as the shop can do the repairs properly have them do it.

I am to the point where I have the axle extensions unbolted. Axle is pivoting but pin is tight in axle. I am going to drop the whole setup of support, pin and axle. Do I need to do anything with radiator or front grill and bonnet? It looks like radiator sits on this support.

You have to remove the hood/grill, and the radiator before removing the front support.

Sorry for the rambling. Confusion has set in again. I guess we all have to learn somewhere. I am trying to determine the exact parts I need to get from the front mounted hydraulic pump to the crank pulley, preferable without machining anything.

What are the adapter plate bushings part # 1400022M91 ? Are these just replacement pieces for the adapter plate or do they go in line somewhere?

Parts in picture in original post came with loader which was taken off a MF35. What is the far right piece in the last picture in the original post? I can't even find this part available in a 3 bolt pattern.

In my mind, I simply need to attach the drive shaft to the pump shaft on the one end, drive shaft to adapter plate on other end, and adapter plate to pulley. How do these other parts mentioned above come into play?

Also, the original setup with the loader, the pump shaft and the drive shaft each had a flanged end that bolted together. I am not seeing this as an option on the parts available for the MF135. I see a shaft with a coupler end and the other end is threaded. How are you supposed to get this shaft in if each end has to be couplered or threaded into something? Remove the pump, get drive shaft bolted to pulley, and then set the pump back on putting shaft in coupler? The flanged end on each shaft made this connection point much easier.

You have to look in the mounted loader section in the AGCO parts book to find the drive assembly, but I got it here for you.

PT - thank you for being so helpful and patient with me. This is starting to get expensive for these small parts and I can't even find that drive shaft online as being available anywhere. My budget has pretty well diminished because I was made aware of an unrelated $6,000 bill yesterday that I am going to be getting.

I think I am going to have the shaft welded that is in the picture in the original post. Pull my pulley and have it tapped for 4 bolts since a 3 bolt pulley is not available for my MF135. Will this work?

(quoted from post at 11:43:32 07/29/16) Pull my pulley and have it tapped for 4 bolts since a [b:83be21a14b]3 bolt [/b:83be21a14b]pulley is not available for my MF135.

Click to expand...

Edit: Should have said 4 bolt pulley not available for MF135.

You can re-drill the 3 bolt pulley to a 4 bolt, the 3, and 4 bolt should share the same bolt circle. One bolt hole on the 4 bolt coupler should line up to one bolt hole on the 3 bolt pulley, center the 4 bolt adaptor, and drill, and tap the other 3 holes. The 3 bolt adapters are easier to find, and are cheaper than the 4 bolt adaptor. The 4 bolt pulley, and 4 bolt adaptor are for earlier model 4 cylinder gas tractors. You can't drill a pulley that never had any holes as they are made different.

As far as helping out, it gives me something to do when I'm bored.

I am getting ready to pull the front axle support and crank pulley. Before I went on vacation I put a wrench to all front support bolts and they all cracked loose. I also sprayed the pivot pin with penetrating oil every day for a few days and it is now loose in the axle and support.

My question is if there are any tips on crank pulley removal??? My manual doesn't explain how to do this. Do I simply put the wrench to it? In gear or out? Lefty loosey? Can I use 3 jaw puller or should I find a pulley puller to rent? Etc.

No trick to it, I use a impact, and a socket to remove the center bolt (lefty loose). A socket/breaker bar with the tractor in gear with brakes locked will work. Then you need a puller, the more jaws the puller has the better to spread the load out on the pulley, or put a bearing puller plate behind it. It's a cast pulley so it can break, buy since you won't be reusing it, it may not matter if it gets damaged (unless you want to sell the old pulley).

Crank pulley slid off with very minimal effort. Almost fell on my behind when I jerked on it with my hands.

Below are a couple pictures of the pin and support (the support hole picture is sideways, groove you see is the top). Even after everything is apart, the pin is very tight fitting to the axle bushing and loose to the support holes. The rear of the pin is wore pretty bad and the rear hole of the support is wore pretty bad as well. You can see this from the shiny part of the pin and there is a very obvious groove in the rear support hole.

Even after everything has been pulled apart, should the pin be very tight fitting to the axle bushing?

Should the pin be loose in the axle supports? The front support hole does not appear to have any wear but still has a lot of "play' with the pin.

What do I do about the rear support hole being so worn? I don't want to pay the $400 these front supports cost. maybe the machine shop can "true up" the hole.

A machine shop should be able to fix it, I fixed a few over the years. Here is one I bored back round then made a new bushing.