135 tractor split and clutch replacement project

JeffScott

Member
Hey guys, I got my 135 split today and the clutch removed. In addition I removed the rope gasket holders. The tractor has had PTO clutch problems, mainly grinding and very noisy with the clutch depressed all the way. It also spit out about 6 ounces of oil after I shut it down after brush hogging a few weeks back. The oil came out of the bell housing weep hole.

Here are some pictures and a video of the split itself. Does anything stand out with the rope seals and how they look? I've never done this before, so I'm looking for anything out of the ordinary.

Thanks!

Jeff

Video on Youtube:










Click below for the Youtube Video of the Split

https://youtu.be/7Eqid2whh7s
 
I've seen worse looking seals, but I would change it out anyways.

On the clutch the three pins (indicated by the red arrows) shouldn't be out like that, you can eve see that one is crooked. The grinding noise is from the release arms hitting the rivets on the clutch disk (see orange arrow) notice the shiny marks on the rivets.
[/img]http://i64.tinypic.com/2d0fghe.jpg
16" hole, and put a cotter pin in the hole like the one in the back of the bellhousing. If the rear main seal decides to leak at a later date the oil from the engine will come out there. Makes it easier to tell if either the rear main, or transmission seal that is leaking.
 
Hi Jeff,
First of all PLEASE PLEASE ensure that the tractor and gearbox are safely supported and wedges are placed under
the axle to prevent the engine turning sideways. Ideally the engine should be wheeled away from the gearbox not
the other way.
There does not appear to be anything wrong with the rear crank seal. There is negligible protrusion of the seal
ends from the housings but as long as they are flush or above that should be OK. If you are going to replace the
seal I would strongly recommend that you fit a genuine MF/Perkins seal. More expensive but totally different
material to the cheaper ones.

It is not beyond possibility that your leak is coming from the rear joint section on the sump (oil pan). There is
no way to tell other than to replace one and find that you still have a leak.

Nice clean tractor from what we can see.

DavidP, South Wales
 
Hi, agreed on the clutch lever pivot pins and damage to the rivet heads but they all look too even to be all loose.
The crook pin hole at the top looks to be blocked with something. Can't see the others.

DavidP
 
I, and everyone else I know have always rolled the rear of the tractor away so you don't have to worry about the front wheels wanting to turn while you split it (especially on a tractor like the 135 where the front wheels can turn independently of each other). Having something else besides jacks supporting the two halves would be good also.
 


Thanks for the feedback guys. I've added addional support to both ends. I do have the axle wedged, I don't think it shows in the pics.

If I replace the oil sump gasket, I'll have to drop the axle I'm guessing. I have a shop crane (2 ton) that I can use to help with that. If I do that, I'm thinking oil pump changeout too. My consistent 60 psi crankcase pressure can't be normal can it?

The rope seal looked ok to me too, do I leave it or change it?

I will have more questions for you folks, just haven't thought of them yet.
 
Yip, wear on all the clutch fingers and joining links will allow enough play to cause the rivets on the plate to be worn like that.....cheapest way (Longterm)is to replace the clutch unit. I would replace that seal and use plenty of sealer on the joint
between the two halves when replacing...also remember to soak the new rope seals in clean engine oil overnight and put plenty of grease on the shaft before fitting the seal housings......also tighten the two long bolts before fully tightening the 6 short
bolts.............Sam
 
If the oil pan gasket has a real small leak, its not that big a deal, you may just need to check the tightness of the bolts holding the pan. The rear seal main is up to you (if it were me I'd change it while it's out). With the clutch a clutch kit is the way to go, it comes with the bearings, and line up tool for the splines for the clutch disks. While you have it apart look at the input shafts on the transmission. There is two seals there where they could leak, and possibly get oil on your clutch.
 
One thing I will mention is that the leak I experienced came out of the weep hole very fast. It wasn't subtle or slow, it was if it was being forced out.

I'll take a picture of the inside of the bell housing and post it tonight and y'all can look it over for me if you wouldn't mind.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Does the tractor have the multi-power transmission? There would be a lever on the dash with a high, and low range. Can you put up a picture of the inside of the bellhousing?
 
(quoted from post at 06:31:53 07/05/16) Does the tractor have the multi-power transmission? There would be a lever on the dash with a high, and low range. Can you put up a picture of the inside of the bellhousing?

No Multi-Power, just a 6-speed. Here's the photo's of the bellhousing. I haven't cleaned up in there yet.

How's it look?





 
Looks like you got some engine oil in the bellhousing. I would suggest to drill a hole about 3/16" dia, and put a cotter pin in it where the red dot is in the picture. I seen one where they drilled a hole in the bottom plate that you can remove to adjust the clutch to keep oil from pooling on the top of that plate.
3zdz7.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 20:07:14 07/05/16) I would also highly recommend replacing the rear main seal.

Any seals or items need to be replaced in the front of the trans?

I'm planning on the rear seal and the oil pan gasket. While I've got the bottom off, I'm thinking oil pump to see if that fixes the continuously high pressure it has. And of course a new Clutch kit and clutch disks.

How does this sound as a plan of action?
 
My 135 has 60 psi of oil pressure, the shop manual shows 30 to 60 psi at regular operating speeds to be acceptable. It shouldn't go above 65 psi on the oil pressure, if it doesn't go above 60 I wouldn't worry about the oil pump.
 
There is 2 seals on the input shafts, but they are not easy to change like the rear main seal. If you have a manual it should show what it takes to change the transmission seals.
 

It's never gone above 60 so I won't worry about the pump. It runs like a top, starts right up after sitting for well over a month. I can't complain about that.

I'll check out my service manual for the transmission seals and see what it takes to change them out. I've got to order parts this week if I hope to get it back together the weekend after next. I've got 3/4 mile of barbed wire fence I need to get to putting up, so the tractor needs to be operational again soon.

Thanks for the advice!

Jeff
 
My brothers 150 with the ad3.152 (every 3.152 diesel I've heard of) will start right up after sitting a couple of weeks when gets below 32 degree's in the winter.
 
Guys,

What kind or brand of sealant do I need to put in the holder groove before I stick the rear main rope seal in? I don't know if it needs to be RTV or similar?

Thanks,
Jeff
 
No sealer in the holder groove for the rope seal. Once you get the rope seals into the grooves, and cut put a film of graphite grease on the rope seal where it runs on the crankshaft.
 
(quoted from post at 17:06:24 07/09/16) No sealer in the holder groove for the rope seal. Once you get the rope seals into the grooves, and cut put a film of graphite grease on the rope seal where it runs on the crankshaft.

Makes sense PT. I think I read somewhere that a sealant was used to hold the rope seal in the groove. I'm guessing friction holds it in and the graphite lubes it until it gets broken in.
 
On another issue, I just bought what was advertised as a service manual for the AD3.152 motor. When I received it, it was just a 228 page book of many different Perkins motors and specs for each. I was wanting something that would detail the repair or overhaul of the AD3.152. So I'm out 50 bucks and don't have what I need yet.

Does anyone know where I can get a repair and service manual for this Perkins motor like I've described above?

Thanks in advance.

Jeff
 
(quoted from post at 07:40:51 07/10/16) Order the 135 shop manual from AGCO, has very detailed information on the 3.152, and other systems on the tractor. http://www.agcopubs.com/

Will do thanks.

I'm looking at the transmission seals now in the bell housing. They don't look too difficult to change and they do look like they are weeping a little hydraulic fluid, not bad at all, but it's one of those "you might as well do it too" moments.

How much fluid do you think I'll have to drain off to get down below that bottom plate cover? I plan to reuse the oil as it's brand new almost.
 
Another observation and question...

I'm thinking more and more now that my leak is from the pan gasket rather than the rear main rope seal. It leaked just after driving it up a steep incline onto my trailer. That would have made the oil in the pan cover the rear cork pan gasket and if it was shrunk, would have let the oil out of the pan.

The more I read about others' troubles with the pan gasket, the more it makes sense.

Have you guys ever used Permatex "The right stuff" gasket maker? I did on the left hydraulic inspection cover of the tractor and was very impressed with its sealing capabilities. I'm wondering if it would be a better gasket than buying a new cork gasket set?

Jeff
 

I see. When I get my replacement gaskets I'll look them over and decide, but I think I'm going to use the Permatex Right Stuff in lieu of the cork front and back pieces. It's truly awesome gasket maker and works fast.

Time to pull the front axle and radiator. This project keeps on getting deeper.
 
Update: I got the front end off of the tractor and now have the motor all by itself. I then dropped the sump and had a look at everything. I found no traces of metal in the pan. It's pretty darn clean in there. So far so good. Here's some pictures of the inside of the pan and the bottom of the motor. Everything to me looks good.



You can tell here that the front cork gasket has been seeping oil, which I knew, but wasn't serious enough to tear down to replace. Of course now that it has a gusher of a leak on the rear, it's time to address it.







Here's the oil pump relief valve. Not sure, but it looks like it's wide open. I have 60 psi of oil pressure no matter the engine speed, so I'm not sure if this valve is causing issues, as I've read of that possibility before. Doesn't appear to be any gunk in it. Any tests I can do while I've got the sump off?



I plan on cleaning up the pan and installing the new gaskets this weekend and then the rear seal. After all that, the new clutch and finally the front transmission seals.

I'll post some pictures as I get along with all this. If you have any comments on this, please chime in.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
This weekend my son and I replaced the sump gaskets and bedded them in Permatex for a little extra security. We then proceeded to install the flywheel (God those things are heavy!) and finally the new clutch kit we bought from YT.

I need to get a set of feeler gauges in order to adjust the clutch fingers. I've read that they need .080 clearance. Still waiting on transmission gaskets to hit the door and I will get those fixed and we should have a leak free tractor.

I hope to rejoin the halves next weekend and finally be done with this project.

Here's some pictures of the new clutch.




 

Looking good PT! Glad to hear the clutch kit works great. I'm hoping by next weekend, I'll be driving mine again.
 
Ok guys, I'm a little bit stuck for a moment.

I'm trying to replace the front transmission seals in the bell housing. I've got the input shaft housing bolts out, but I can't pull the housing out more than about 3/4" inch. Shouldn't the housing slide off the input shaft? I know it's got a rubber seal inside, I bought one just in case I need to replace it. I'm trying to get that housing off so I can replace the gasket that is underneath the footprint of the housing.

I don't want to pull so hard as to cause the shaft to come out also, just trying to put a gasket and seal in.

Here are some pictures to detail what I'm trying to do.

As far as I've gotten so far...



As far as the housing will come off shown here...



The gasket/seal I bought to replace...
 
(quoted from post at 18:02:48 07/20/16) Ok guys, I'm a little bit stuck for a moment.

I'm trying to replace the front transmission seals in the bell housing. I've got the input shaft housing bolts out, but I can't pull the housing out more than about 3/4" inch. Shouldn't the housing slide off the input shaft? I know it's got a rubber seal inside, I bought one just in case I need to replace it. I'm trying to get that housing off so I can replace the gasket that is underneath the footprint of the housing.

I don't want to pull so hard as to cause the shaft to come out also, just trying to put a gasket and seal in.

Here are some pictures to detail what I'm trying to do.

As far as I've gotten so far...



As far as the housing will come off shown here...




If I remember correctly when I did mine, I had to pull the scover off and drop a gear down behind that wall so the assembly you are trying to remove slides out. I'll see if I can find some pictures for you.
 
Not sure but I think I broke something. In the picture below, my service manual says to pull the circlips off the PTO shaft housing and to insert two bolts in the housing and progressively tighten them down to pull the housing. I did this and after a few turns...POP. Something in the PTO shaft housing or behind it popped. It still doesn't want to come out and I'm hesitant to wrench on it any more.

The main shaft housing comes out a little more now than it did before, but it's still engaged in there somewhere.

Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong?

Jeff
 
Well I manned up and wrenched some more on the pto bearing housing and got it off. It pops and creaks the whole time doing the extraction. Not to worry, that's normal I take it. :D
 
(quoted from post at 07:43:05 07/23/16) Well I manned up and wrenched some more on the pto bearing housing and got it off. It pops and creaks the whole time doing the extraction. Not to worry, that's normal I take it. :D

Release the bearings while you have it all apart, I did on mine...pressed them out and new back in....whole job was not as bad as I thought. May also want to look at the clutch shaft bushings and brake shaft bushings...mine were fairly worn, since you are in that general area already.
 
(quoted from post at 07:43:05 07/23/16) Well I manned up and wrenched some more on the pto bearing housing and got it off. It pops and creaks the whole time doing the extraction. Not to worry, that's normal I take it. :D



They will do that, they are made to fit a little tight. I will go back together the same way, just go slow, and move the bolts evenly as you can. If they fit loose the shaft would spin inside the bearing race instead of the bearing spinning like it's supposed to.
 

I got the PTO bearing back on and sealed up the cover and this morning noticed a very small leak coming from under the cover. I have to take it back apart anyway, as I forgot to put the snap ring back on the PTO shaft and that's fairly important :D

This transmission hates me.
 
(quoted from post at 06:35:47 07/25/16)
I got the PTO bearing back on and sealed up the cover and this morning noticed a very small leak coming from under the cover. I have to take it back apart anyway, as I forgot to put the snap ring back on the PTO shaft and that's fairly important :D

This transmission hates me.


There is other things on a tractor that will hate you at times. On my 2135 industrial the Z134 engine despises me despite all the nice things I did to it.
 
(quoted from post at 08:34:55 07/25/16)
(quoted from post at 06:35:47 07/25/16)
I got the PTO bearing back on and sealed up the cover and this morning noticed a very small leak coming from under the cover. I have to take it back apart anyway, as I forgot to put the snap ring back on the PTO shaft and that's fairly important :D

This transmission hates me.


There is other things on a tractor that will hate you at times. On my 2135 industrial the Z134 engine despises me despite all the nice things I did to it.

I Know, right? All that nice paint, new gauges, sheet metal and fluids. and this is what I get??? Geeesh.
 
(quoted from post at 04:51:53 07/28/16)
(quoted from post at 08:34:55 07/25/16)
(quoted from post at 06:35:47 07/25/16)
I got the PTO bearing back on and sealed up the cover and this morning noticed a very small leak coming from under the cover. I have to take it back apart anyway, as I forgot to put the snap ring back on the PTO shaft and that's fairly important :D

This transmission hates me.


There is other things on a tractor that will hate you at times. On my 2135 industrial the Z134 engine despises me despite all the nice things I did to it.

I Know, right? All that nice paint, new gauges, sheet metal and fluids. and this is what I get??? Geeesh.



But once it's right, it will do some work.
 
(quoted from post at 05:57:45 07/28/16)
(quoted from post at 04:51:53 07/28/16)
(quoted from post at 08:34:55 07/25/16)
(quoted from post at 06:35:47 07/25/16)
I got the PTO bearing back on and sealed up the cover and this morning noticed a very small leak coming from under the cover. I have to take it back apart anyway, as I forgot to put the snap ring back on the PTO shaft and that's fairly important :D

This transmission hates me.


There is other things on a tractor that will hate you at times. On my 2135 industrial the Z134 engine despises me despite all the nice things I did to it.

I Know, right? All that nice paint, new gauges, sheet metal and fluids. and this is what I get??? Geeesh.



But once it's right, it will do some work.



It may never be right. I've got the PTO bearing housing back on and the bearing in the housing. I can't get the PTO shaft to come through the bearing enough to get the thrust washer and clip back on the shaft. I used the oven to heat the pieces up and that really helped with getting them back in, but what do I need to use to get the shaft to move out a bit more?



 
If the bearing needs to be pressed on more you could put a socket that will fit over the shaft then use the bolt in the center to push the bearing on more, just be careful, and lubricate the threads with grease.
 
(quoted from post at 20:42:13 07/29/16) If the bearing needs to be pressed on more you could put a socket that will fit over the shaft then use the bolt in the center to push the bearing on more, just be careful, and lubricate the threads with grease.


I think the bearing is on as far as it will go. When you turn the main shaft with the pto bearing initially seated, it turns the pto shaft easily. The more you try to press the bearing on with a bolt and a socket, the harder it gets until you can't turn the main shaft any more by hand. I'm wondering if something isn't seated right with the main shaft housing, so I'm going to take it all apart again.

Thanks PT

Jeff
 
(quoted from post at 07:41:28 08/01/16) I think it will be good to go.

Yep, the seepage stopped and the gaskets held. Today my son and I tried to rejoin halves but ran into a little bit of a snag. We can get it within an inch or so of joining the two halves together, but that's as far as it will go. We've been pushing, rocking, wiggling both halves but it won't go all the way home. We put some longer bolts in to act as guides and everything is lined up except for maybe the splines on the shaft. We've been moving the flywheel a little at a time and wiggling. Here's some pictures to show how far we've got. I'm pretty sure we've got the PTO splines lined up now, maybe the smaller transmission splines aren't yet? How do you get them to move?

Help is appreciated from all who have been there before! :)

Left side of tractor



Right side of tractor


Inside of tractor. Splines were off in this picture a little and not engaged yet but does everything else look ok in there?
 
Everything looks ok, sometimes they can be just stubborn when going back together. The main thing is don't force it together, it should slip right together with. I've had some go together really easy, and some that took some time with some few choice words.
 
(quoted from post at 16:50:41 08/05/16) Everything looks ok, sometimes they can be just stubborn when going back together. The main thing is don't force it together, it should slip right together with. I've had some go together really easy, and some that took some time with some few choice words.

Stubborn it was. We gave it another shot Sunday morning and after 15 minutes of tinkering with it, it slid together! I got it re-assembled into running condition and took it for a spin. No leaks and the clutch works awesome. No grinding and it's tight. Even popped a wheelie in 3rd low unintentionally. :D

We're going to put it through a couple more test runs and then put the sheet metal back on it.

Thanks for all the help PT!

 
I will say that before splitting the Massey, I was somewhat intimidated by the thought of doing all that work. But now that I've done it, it's no big deal. Yes it's a lot of work, but I've found the tractor pretty easy to work on.

It's all a learning experience.
 
(quoted from post at 05:05:55 08/10/16) I will say that before splitting the Massey, I was somewhat intimidated by the thought of doing all that work. But now that I've done it, it's no big deal. Yes it's a lot of work, but I've found the tractor pretty easy to work on.

It's all a learning experience.



I would rather work on tractor than any car, or truck, putting a new clutch in a car while having to lay on you back is no fun. It's even less fun when the transmission doesn't want to line up when you are laying on your back.
 
I agree with you. Tractor work can be fun, not so much with cars for me at least.

Here's a pic from last night after we buttoned it all up. Looking forward to putting it back to work now.

 

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