MF 135 - Flushed fuel. Now can't get started.

nrowles

Member
I completely emptied the fuel tank/lines, changed filters, etc. I have fuel all the way to the injectors. If I crack the lines at the injectors it is spitting fuel out all 3. I can't get it to fire though. Do I need to crack some lines somewhere else, like the nut on top of each injector (come to think of it though I did crack the line at the end of the leak off pipe and it had fuel)? Can you flood a diesel like this? Could there still be too much air in the lines even though I have fuel to injectors? Should I crack the injectors and keep turning over for a while to try and bleed the rest of the air out if there is any?

Any tips would be appreciated.
 
Do you have good AIR-FREE fuel flow at the lower pump bleed screw? if there's ANY air there it will never bleed out. Leave the injector top cap nuts alone, that's what holds the opening pressure setting. If NAPA-WIX fuel filters are used MAKE SURE the filter top outer groove does NOT have an O ring in it, that's the filter fuel inlet groove. I've lost count how many service calls I've made to correct that mistake. If it's a six speed tractor have someone pull you, using sixth gear to help bleed it out faster. If it's the MP trans it can't be pull started..
 
(quoted from post at 18:02:43 07/13/16) Do you have good AIR-FREE fuel flow at the lower pump bleed screw? if there's ANY air there it will never bleed out. Leave the injector top cap nuts alone, that's what holds the opening pressure setting. If NAPA-WIX fuel filters are used MAKE SURE the filter top outer groove does NOT have an O ring in it, that's the filter fuel inlet groove. I've lost count how many service calls I've made to correct that mistake. If it's a six speed tractor have someone pull you, using sixth gear to help bleed it out faster. If it's the MP trans it can't be pull started..

I'm not sure how air free the fuel is at lower pump screw. I will crack that one as well as the pump upper and secondary filter per the service guide. Crank it a little more and see if any air is coming out. That sound right?

Ok will not touch injector cap screws.

It is a Purolator filter. I did not use the o rings but I did use the gaskets on top and bottom of each filter.

I have terrible breaks at the moment so I'm a bit hesitant on pulling the tractor with a vehicle. But if I do what lines or screws should I loosen to bleed lines?

If I try cranking some more I assume I should just go by the service manual and open the secondary filter top screw and both pump screws until no air?
 

To correct my statement I did remove and replace an o ring on each fuel filter that if I remember correctly was on the center "post" of the filter mount housing.
 
Start at the tank, follow the fuel path. Bleed the first filter until there's no air at the screw. If the filter is AFTER the supply pump the hand lever will need to be used. Now go to the second filter and do the same, then the injection pump LOWER screw. Don't worry about the top one as it can be bled after running. Last with each line nut 1/2 turn loose at the injectors crank the engine, thirty seconds at a time to bleed the lines of any trapped air. One more note, if the hand pump does not work turn the engine about one turn with the starter so the cam lobe moves away from the internal lever. If you still have trouble call if you like, five seven four eight nine three 4172, be glad to help..
 
If you have a good solid flow of fuel coming from the vents on the pump and very positive 'spits' coming from the
injector unions when loosened there is not a lot more that you can do. Quite often a tractor will require a tow to
start it the first time after the fuel system has been interrupted. Do NOT use a chain, only a rope or strap. This of
course requires assistance and another suitable vehicle. It will only be necessary to do this once.
Let us know how you get on.

DavidP, South Wales
 

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