rattle in 240, stops when clutch pushed in

495man · Jul 8, 2016

What am I in for?

Loud rattle when engine running, stopped or moving. Does it when clutch fully engaged, when first stage pushed in, and stops when second stage (all the way to floor) is pushed in. Both sticks in "N" too.

Doesn't seem to affect operation, drives normal and PTO shifts in and out fine.

marloweg · Jul 8, 2016

trought out bearing

marloweg · Jul 8, 2016

throw out bearing

DavidP, South Wales · Jul 9, 2016

Hello,
Have a look for broken hydraulic pump dowel/s or a loose PTO flywheel plate in the clutch unit. Both will cause a
big rattle noise.

DavidP, South Wales

495man · Jul 9, 2016

Pulled the inspection plate off this morning, nothing obviously loose inside there, throw out bearing spins fine and no loose bolts on clutch assembly.

Sounds like it has to be split?

For the dowel pins, can those be inspected via the plates on the side of the trans housing (two bolts) or will undoing those cause the pump to fall...

DavidP, South Wales · Jul 9, 2016

Hi, a bit of a quick answer this morning. Disregard part of the last message. It is actually the Main pressure
plate being loose in the PTO flywheel plate. There are three lugs on the main pressure plate which locate in three
forks on the PTO flywheel plate making one a neat fit inside the other. If major wear occurs the faces on both
will wear and the fit will become loose. It is this looseness which causes the rattling when the pedal is fully
pressed. Have an assistant press the pedal and see if you can move the plate which is attached to the link on the
end of the three release fingers. If there is wear here you should be able to produce a similar rattle using a
screwdriver or similar.

The easiest way to check the pump dowels is to remove the right hand round side cover. You will then be able to
feel if there is any turning movement in the pump body. The pump will not drop if you remove the dowel on the side
of the casing but it is likely to require a small turn to realign the holes for the dowel which can only be done
from above or from the side.

DavidP

495man · Jul 9, 2016

(quoted from post at 09:36:46 07/09/16) It is this looseness which causes the rattling when the pedal is fully
pressed.

DavidP

Thanks David, to clarify the rattle stops when pedal is fully depressed, (both stages) but rattles when first stage depressed (traction stopped) and also when both stages are engaged (foot off pedal and moving)

ptfarmer · Jul 9, 2016

I would check the pump dowels as DavidP suggested since it quits rattling with the clutch fully depressed. The hydraulic pump runs off the second stage of the clutch, along with the pto.

Curt Cooke · Jul 11, 2016

Don't overlook the simple. Make sure your position control lever is not in the "constant pump" part of the quadrant. (Not that I've ever done that, LOL)
Curt

495man · Jul 12, 2016

Little update, tractor has been parked since we are in middle of haying, I pulled it out of the shed today, moved the 3 pt up and down and now it doesn't rattle? 3pt wasn't in constant pumping all the way, but sort of "half" in it if that makes sense.

I guess if that rattle comes back I'll go from there.

495man · Jul 13, 2016

I think it's solved. Local mechanic stopped in to take a look. Recommended adjusting the stop on the lift quadrant so the position control lever isn't so close to constant pumping. He was able to replicate the sound and confirmed the dowel pin theory, said pump was rocking on them, so some wear but leave it alone for now.

rattle in 240, stops when clutch pushed in

495man

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marloweg

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marloweg

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DavidP, South Wales

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495man

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DavidP, South Wales

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