Hey guys have quick question. I am replacing the rear seals and bearings on my old 135. Tried getting the hub off the axle and it wont budge so have to take it to a shop that can press it off. Got the shrink collar off easy enough but the bearing just wont move. Question is this.. Since i can't see the bare axle is there a shoulder or something that the new bearing is pressed against? If not how do you know how far to press the new bearing onto the shaft?
- Thread starter rockepg
- Start date
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
The bearing is pressed until it stops, then the new collar must be expanded with heat to get it to go tight against the bearing. Did both sides of my TO-35 last summer, NOT a fun job..
Unless the bearing is knackered you do not need to take it off a 135 to repair the seals...the oil seal is inside the axle tube...simply lever it out and fit a new seal...removing some shims will reset the preload on the bearings....pack the bearing with
grease before refitting.........Sam
grease before refitting.........Sam
True, however.. Reason i am doing the whole thing is the seals are so far gone that on a slight angle the oil just runs out the axle. Outer seal is all cracked up and the grease in the bearing was gone. Bearing is "crunchy" when you spin the wheel. Hydraulic oil has a bit of a milky color to it and i think water was sneaking in through the seals.
DavidP, South Wales
Well-known Member
Hi, the bearings can be extremely tight and will require a press with suitable tooling to hold the hub while the
shaft is pressed out. Depending on how energetic you are it is sometimes possible to bang the inner end of the
shaft down squarely onto an anvil or something very heavy and the bearing and hub will come off slowly. It takes a
lot of physical effort to do this but it can work.
Replacing the outer seal is straightforward. You will need a suitable piece of tube to fit over the axle to knock
the bearing back into place against its shoulder. Make sure that you can heat the collar well enough to
approaching a purplish/cherry red colour but NOT red. You will only have one chance to fit it. If you get it wrong
you will probably have to cut the new collar off and start again. Make sure you have everything to hand before
starting.
As Sam has said the bearings should be packed with grease. The correct end float on the axles is very important
and should be set at 002-004". Too much clearance and you will hear the shafts banging against eachother and the
bearings will only be making partial contact in their rings. No endfloat will place too-much pre-load on the
bearings. To adjust this place supports under the tractor so that one side is slightly higher than the other.
Working on the high side replace the shims as removed and tighten at least 3 hub bolts/nuts each side. The lower
side will cause that shaft to remain in place and allow you to check the end float more easily. Remove shim/s
until there is no tightness and you can just pull the shaft towards you that 2 to 4 thou. That is a minimal amount
of movement if you do not have a DTI. You will just about be able to hear the movement. Once you think that you
are correct tighten all the bolts and check the end float again. This will probably take several attempts to get
it correct so be patient and take your time.
Let us know how you get on.
DavidP, South Wales
shaft is pressed out. Depending on how energetic you are it is sometimes possible to bang the inner end of the
shaft down squarely onto an anvil or something very heavy and the bearing and hub will come off slowly. It takes a
lot of physical effort to do this but it can work.
Replacing the outer seal is straightforward. You will need a suitable piece of tube to fit over the axle to knock
the bearing back into place against its shoulder. Make sure that you can heat the collar well enough to
approaching a purplish/cherry red colour but NOT red. You will only have one chance to fit it. If you get it wrong
you will probably have to cut the new collar off and start again. Make sure you have everything to hand before
starting.
As Sam has said the bearings should be packed with grease. The correct end float on the axles is very important
and should be set at 002-004". Too much clearance and you will hear the shafts banging against eachother and the
bearings will only be making partial contact in their rings. No endfloat will place too-much pre-load on the
bearings. To adjust this place supports under the tractor so that one side is slightly higher than the other.
Working on the high side replace the shims as removed and tighten at least 3 hub bolts/nuts each side. The lower
side will cause that shaft to remain in place and allow you to check the end float more easily. Remove shim/s
until there is no tightness and you can just pull the shaft towards you that 2 to 4 thou. That is a minimal amount
of movement if you do not have a DTI. You will just about be able to hear the movement. Once you think that you
are correct tighten all the bolts and check the end float again. This will probably take several attempts to get
it correct so be patient and take your time.
Let us know how you get on.
DavidP, South Wales
Yup i have read other posts on how to do this for sure. It was just the bearing shoulder question i had that has been answered, thanks. Heading to town shortly to have them swapped. I did try the banging trick and all i did was break the rock i was using as anvil. Tried concrete block, the solid kind, and it just broke in half too. Bearing did not budge. Took it to a buddies place that had a small press and it would not generate enough pressure to pop the bearing so time to take it to a shop with a big press. I used to turn a wrench for a living when i was young so i still have my dial indicator that i used for rebuilding differentials. Doesn't the manual say .002-.008 for run out?
DavidP, South Wales
Well-known Member
Hi, it is essential that the hub is held squarely and rigidly on the bed of the press. The press pressure must be
applied to the inner end of the axle shaft. Any 'small' press is unlikely to have the capacity to accommodate the
length of the axle shaft let alone seperate the two. My press was a 50 ton that I made and it always took 20 tons
plus to start the bearing moving. Having the hub resting on blocks is not good enough. A plate should be drilled to
fit over the studs or temporarily replace them with bolts with the ends of the plate resting securely on the bed
blocks.
DavidP
applied to the inner end of the axle shaft. Any 'small' press is unlikely to have the capacity to accommodate the
length of the axle shaft let alone seperate the two. My press was a 50 ton that I made and it always took 20 tons
plus to start the bearing moving. Having the hub resting on blocks is not good enough. A plate should be drilled to
fit over the studs or temporarily replace them with bolts with the ends of the plate resting securely on the bed
blocks.
DavidP
So got the axle back and am working on setting the run out. With the factory shims there is no movement at all. Slowly backed off the 3 nuts until i got very slight movement. probably in the .002-.008 range but can't measure it since the brake backing plate now wobbles. Is it normal to have to add shims? I mean like a lot! There is probably .100 worth of air gap now between the axle housing and the backing plate.
ptfarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- San Antonio, Tx
I've haven't had one needed that much shims.
Ok so this is strange... Got the first side back together and took apart the other side. Before i pulled the axle out i wanted to check the run out and see how much that side had. To my surprise the axle on that side was very loose. Easily the amount of shims i added to the first side and then some. Does it matter that i am doing this on a slight angle? Wouldn't think so with the bearings captured out at the hub. Any idea why this is so out of wack like this?
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