so I have a 3 cyl perkins gas and I'm replacing the rear main seal. but here's my issue. I bought a rear main seal from yesterdays tractors, I pull the old rear main seal out and soak the new pieces. in my factory service manual it specifically says DO NOT TRIM THE SEAL. but I start pressing the new rear main into the housing and it hangs way out from the end. so I check the new seal against the old seal and the new seal is 1/4" longer than the old seal. I called yesterdays tech line and they have no idea what to tell me. so they told me to ask you guys. please help I have a tractor blocking the only open bay in the shop and the company that sold me the parts (that I waited a week and a half for) has no clue if it's supposed to be trimmed or if they sent me the wrong seal all together. they swear this seal is supposed to be a direct replacement but it's obviously not. and yes I have the seal bottomed out in the seal housing.
- Thread starter 370
- Start date
Don't trim it.....put in the long bolts first and do not tighten completely, but get the six short bolts started, not forgetting to fit the gasket and some sealer on the mating faces of the two halves of the seal housings......Now tighten the long bolts and
finally the short bolts....Forgot to say to ensure you have plenty of grease around the shaft first as most of these rope seals burn up in the first few minutes if not well lubricated....Thats how I do it and I have never had any bother, nor have I ever trimmed
a rope seal, and yes they do protrude, but tightening onto the shaft really beds in the seal and gets rid of the excess.........Sam
finally the short bolts....Forgot to say to ensure you have plenty of grease around the shaft first as most of these rope seals burn up in the first few minutes if not well lubricated....Thats how I do it and I have never had any bother, nor have I ever trimmed
a rope seal, and yes they do protrude, but tightening onto the shaft really beds in the seal and gets rid of the excess.........Sam
sam I measured this seal compared to the old seal there is a 3/8" difference on each half .. I do not see where an extra 3/4" of seal is going to go. at this point the halves would be 3/8" apart on each side before I start to tighten the long pinch bolts. the massey manual says no more than .020 protruding.
If you got the soft rope seal it will spread out to help seal between the two halves....if you got the harder type seal it should be to the book specs...I have used both and can't see if one lasts any better than the other, but I have never trimmed them as
my book says not to!.....If this engine is still attached to the front axle and you have it well blocked up at the back, then you should be able to start it before joining the tractor to check for leaks...At least if it leaks you have only the flywheel to
unbolt!.........Sam
my book says not to!.....If this engine is still attached to the front axle and you have it well blocked up at the back, then you should be able to start it before joining the tractor to check for leaks...At least if it leaks you have only the flywheel to
unbolt!.........Sam
nope the engine is not connected to the front axle still everything is separated. I'm not sure what I'm more mad about.. the fact that I specifically ordered 2 of these rear mains for just such and issue and they only sent me one and it took me calling them to ask why before they ever noticed even though she clearly saw as soon as she opened up my order that they only sent one.. or that when I called their "technical assistance department" they didn't offer to pull a new seal and measure it or anything all I got was "the manager says he doesn't know he says go on the forum someone there might know"
Ok so I called yesterday's tractor again and talked with CJ in customer service. He actually spent the time to figure out the problem. I have him all the measurements and he called me back about 40 minutes later with an answer. It turns out my red main seal was mismarked and the proper length is 4 7/8" just likeni thought it should be. He is overnighting a new rear main to me from the supplier. He cslled and tslked to the supplier directly and got me an answer to my problem. CJ is a great parts person. Being that I spent a year or 2 behind a GM parts counter i'm aware of what a quality parts person does in the event of an issue. Just wanted to let you know the issue is resolved.
ptfarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- San Antonio, Tx
Good you got it sorted out, good parts people are getting hard to find.
ptfarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- San Antonio, Tx
You can look up MF parts here (if you live in North America). http://agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/Default.aspx?
DavidP, South Wales
Well-known Member
Hi Sam,
I have used non-genuine rope seals in the past and have not had any problems. However a couple of years ago I fitted one to a 135 and after about 5 hours of driving a sawbench it started to leak. A genuine Perkins seal was obtained and the two compared. The non-genuine seal is made of a harder material than the Perkins one. You can feel a bit of give in the Perkins if you squeeze it between your fingers but nothing in the non-genuine. I will only use Perkins now. I have never had to trim a seal. I have always centred the seal in the housing and tapped it in using a hammer shaft and worked outwards from the centre. There should be approximately 1/8" protrusion. This should compress when the long bolts are nipped up equally.
Regards
DavidP
I have used non-genuine rope seals in the past and have not had any problems. However a couple of years ago I fitted one to a 135 and after about 5 hours of driving a sawbench it started to leak. A genuine Perkins seal was obtained and the two compared. The non-genuine seal is made of a harder material than the Perkins one. You can feel a bit of give in the Perkins if you squeeze it between your fingers but nothing in the non-genuine. I will only use Perkins now. I have never had to trim a seal. I have always centred the seal in the housing and tapped it in using a hammer shaft and worked outwards from the centre. There should be approximately 1/8" protrusion. This should compress when the long bolts are nipped up equally.
Regards
DavidP
Do you have an updated part # for that rear main seal David? Because the Perkins dealer in felt with yesterday sold me thier last rear main seal. I wanted 2 just in case but when they did a nationwide search there are no more. So he called Perkins UK and they said there hasn't been any in England for a VERY long time. I believe he number is 36883109. It's an asbestos rope seal. I did see another part #. 36883119 looks like the same thing but I couldn't be sure.
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