MF 230 Gas clutch/pto

Curt Cooke · Jun 13, 2016

The knocking in the clutch housing has become intolerable. The knocking goes away when the PTO clutch is disengaged. This small noise which has become a loud noise is present PTO engaged or not. I think you all were good enough to counsel me on this before but I need a refresher.

DavidP, South Wales · Jun 13, 2016

Hi Curt,
The first thing to do would be to remove the plate under the clutch housing and using a flashlight have a look inside for anything visible wrong. It would be very unusual for anything in the clutch to cause a bad knocking sound. A failed release bearing or broken linkage would cause a much lighter noise. Two things that can't be ruled out are a loose flywheel or even a broken crank-shaft. Don't run it any more until you find out what it is.
If you can't see anything with the clutch insert a screwdriver or small prybar and try and rock the flywheel.
Let us know what you find.
DavidP, South Wales

Curt Cooke · Jun 13, 2016

Will do David. Thing is that noise has been closer to a rattle for some time. I found that if I engaged the ground speed PTO the rattle went away - for a while- then returned with a vengeance.

Dieseltech · Jun 13, 2016

I had a 165 awhile back that had a knock just like you describe, would stop when the two stage clutch pedal was completely down. It had teeth off the PTO driven gear, and one tooth off the hollow PTO input drive shaft. Owner claimed it started the noise after a sudden PTO shock load while mowing.

samn40 · Jun 13, 2016

Are you sure the noise is not from the hydraulic pump? broken dowels would give a knocking sound, and engaging ground drive just could have let it sit for a bit...but disengaging the PTO clutch ould stop the drive to the pump yhus stopping the noise.....Sam

Curt Cooke · Jun 14, 2016

Sam, I think you're on to it. Last night I started the tractor just to drive it on a trailer and take it home. I noticed the engine laboring just a bit and watched the hitch rise. When the hitched reached the top, the knocking began. It appears that I may have inexplicably moved the position control lever to the full time pump position. Can't imagine how I would have done that but the evidence is that I did.

What is involved in correcting or replacing broken dowels? I know better than to torture the pump and other components by allowing the pump to be constantly engaged but it doesn't seem that the amount of knocking is acceptable under any conditions.

Thanks for the help,
CC

Curt Cooke · Jun 14, 2016

David, at this point, I'm going to blame myself and the hydraulic pump. Keep you posted.
CC

DavidP, South Wales · Jun 14, 2016

Ok. Check if there is any possibility of the noise coming from further back. It's possible that one or both pump dowels my be broken. These are the oval plates with two nuts on the outdide of the centre casing. If you investigate here you will need to drain the oil to the level of the bottom bolt on the rh side cover and remove it. Check the pump for rotation on its shaft.Should be free but not turn at all.
DavidP.

MF 230 Gas clutch/pto

Curt Cooke

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DavidP, South Wales

Well-known Member

Curt Cooke

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Dieseltech

Well-known Member

samn40

Well-known Member

Curt Cooke

Member

Curt Cooke

Member

DavidP, South Wales

Well-known Member

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