Advice on purchasing 1968 MF 135 tractor

pwyld

Member
I'm looking at possibly purchasing a MF 135 tractor that is for sale. I looked it over yesterday and had some concerns. Obviously I don't expect an old tractor to be perfect, but I like to know what I'm getting into before I make an offer. So here's my list of questions for those out there that have a MF 135:

1. Does the tractor have downward pressure capability? The guy who showed me the tractor didn't know, plus he wasn't able to keep the rear lift raised when the tractor was shut off. Sounds to me a possible hydraulics leak.

2. How difficult is it to work on the brakes and any seals that keep oil out of it? The left rear brake won't hold. I'm told there's oil on the drum. All I have to do is sandpaper off the oil on the drum...yes...you heard right...sandpaper off the oil. Sounds to me that it might be a bearing seal that is bad. How complicated is it to change that?

3. I took two plugs out and looked at them. They were fouled black, wet and oily. I was told just need to run it and it will burn off. Not really sure if its an over rich mixture problem or leaking oil through the piston rings or both. The tractor did start up relatively quick. No smoke came out the tail pipe, but we didn't run it for very long (~5 minutes). So how difficult is it to re-due the rings and valves? I won't go as far as re-boring the engine, since that would be a major undertaking for me.

I tried to look for a free manual on-line to help me understand some of the questions I have above and to check out the rest of the equipment and features. However, couldn't find any free copy, just those who want to sell me something. There was always someone willing to sell me a manual...lol.

Any help or comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
did you write down the serial # with this number you can determine the year model, just to be sure its a 1968
probably need to know that if you are going to make an offer.

if out plowing or bush hogging I would think the plugs should be a lite brown, not black as that is an indication the fuel mixture is rich or using oil,

you need to hook it to some type implement and run it long enough to get it up to proper operating temperature. if they will not let you do that, then do not walk away, run away,

my friends MF135 motor got hot and it started smoking like an old freight train, plugs were black as coal,

these are good tractors, but like all tractors they need proper care and routine maintenance.
was there a load on the lift when it when down so fast after the motor was turned off?

my old worn out Fergie, if you turn off the motor with the plow or disk on the lift system in the raised position, it will slowly go down in a 10-15 minutes, but the old tractor is a 1957, however the lift system works fine.

all Fergusons will let the implement go down after a while, that is to protect the lift system, I always let the load down when I store the tractor, never just let it go down on its own, why put the strain on the tractor, also when you start it up, the motor also has to start pumping oil to raise it back up, again more strain on the tractor,

good advice, look at, at least 3 tractors before you make a offer or lay any money down on the table,

you will be surprised in the difference in tractors, how they were cared for, and price,
rear tires on a tractor is a major cost as is hydraulic system repair,

you can thank me for this advice later!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
(quoted from post at 08:30:42 06/03/16) I'm looking at possibly purchasing a MF 135 tractor that is for sale. I looked it over yesterday and had some concerns. Obviously I don't expect an old tractor to be perfect, but I like to know what I'm getting into before I make an offer. So here's my list of questions for those out there that have a MF 135:

1. Does the tractor have downward pressure capability? The guy who showed me the tractor didn't know, plus he wasn't able to keep the rear lift raised when the tractor was shut off. Sounds to me a possible hydraulics leak.
(No on the downward pressure)

2. How difficult is it to work on the brakes and any seals that keep oil out of it? The left rear brake won't hold. I'm told there's oil on the drum. All I have to do is sandpaper off the oil on the drum...yes...you heard right...sandpaper off the oil. Sounds to me that it might be a bearing seal that is bad. How complicated is it to change that?
(The brakes are easy to work on. You can sand the drum to deglaze it after you clean the drum with brake clean, Pulling the axle, and changing the seal is not too hard).

3. I took two plugs out and looked at them. They were fouled black, wet and oily. I was told just need to run it and it will burn off. Not really sure if its an over rich mixture problem or leaking oil through the piston rings or both. The tractor did start up relatively quick. No smoke came out the tail pipe, but we didn't run it for very long (~5 minutes). So how difficult is it to re-due the rings and valves? I won't go as far as re-boring the engine, since that would be a major undertaking for me.
(What engine does it have, 3 cylinder, or 4 cylinder? The engines these tractor use have replaceable sleeves so you don't re-bore them. If the cylinder walls are in good shape you can replace the rings. A engine machine shop that works on industrial engines would better to use for any head/valve work)

I tried to look for a free manual on-line to help me understand some of the questions I have above and to check out the rest of the equipment and features. However, couldn't find any free copy, just those who want to sell me something. There was always someone willing to sell me a manual...lol.

Any help or comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
(How much are they asking for the tractor?)
 
Hello, I have just picked myself up off the floor after reading the 'sandpaper advice'!!!!!!
The tractor does not have any capability to exert downward pressure on the 3-point linkage. As has been said, all
MF tractors, 35/65/135 etc will leak oil over time and allow the 3-pt to drop. The question is how long does it
take? If it falls within 20 seconds of switching the engine off there is a problem but if it takes anything over
10 minutes that would be about normal. With no load it could take hours to fall. It is always safer to lower the
linkage if you have an implement attached then no-one or anything can become caught under it.
As to the brakes; there is an inner oil seal in the outer end of the axle housing. This can allow oil to pass from
the centre housing through the bearing and through the outer seal. To access the outer seal you will need to
remove a shrunk-on collar, pull the hub off and replace the seal. Normally replacing the inner seal is sufficient
to cure the leak. You will of course require new brake shoes....either brand new or re-lined. Everything will have
to be cleaned and then the brake system should be checked for wear on the brake-shaft cam. You can find my posts
on here about how to rectify a worn cam and adjust the system correctly.
If the plugs are fouled there is certainly something wrong either in the carb or the adjustment.
Overall advice? Leave it there!!!! For someone who can suggest sandpapering the drums he might be hiding something
else about it as well. Don't rush into buying anything. Have a look at a few then decide.
DavidP, South Wales UK.
 
good advice already below. From the sound of it I would look around for another 135, or better yet a 150 or 165, that are apparently better maintained. A 165 is a little bigger but much more useful and versatile for using on farm work and heavy mowing than a 135. I've had a 135 for many years and now have a 165 and 265. Diesel is the way to go IMHO. I would also look for a non Multipower tranny with just a simple H and L shifter. The MP can be expensive to repair and dangerous when not working. Plenty of archives to review here on tractor purchase advice, Multipower, etc. Good luck and hope you find a nice MF.
 
I'd keep looking, if you can find one with the Perkins AD3.152 diesel you will be a lot better off. I have a 4 cylinder gasser, and it does ok, but the diesel is so much better (plus the Perkins AD3.152 diesel is so much more fuel efficient than a gasser).
 
As others have said, walk on and look for a 3 pot diesel. A diesel 135 in good condition is an outstanding little tractor. Here in The UK restored examples make outstanding money too, they are such popular and well liked tractors.
 
Thanks for to everyone for all the advice.

I rechecked the S/N (641003701), which I think makes it a 1965 and not a 1968 model.

It's a four cylinder engine, but I didn't catch which type of engine it was. It had a set of 3pt hitch harrows on the back when it was demonstrated to me. It dropped the harrows in <30 sec when the engine was shut off.

Asking price was $3500 USD.

I've decided to take the advice of the forum and keep looking. Thanks for all the advice!

:D
 
That was the Continental 4 cylinder gas engine (sound like it need a rebuild by the fouled plugs. The lift cylinder for the 3 point needs new seals. Sounds more like a $1000 - 1500 tractor.
 

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