MF50 PTO chatter

kaymcc

New User
First, thanks to everyone for help with the 3pth pivot bolt replacement. All went well. This is an old problem that I should have investigated when the oil was drained but needed the tractor for a bit. The tractor has a two stage clutch. When I engage the PTO with an implement attached (snowblower, brush hog or tiller) the PTO chatters for a second or two and then smooths out. Another thing I noticed is that when I raise the 3PTH with a heavy load (bucket with gravel), I hear a knocking sound. Do I have a bad bearing in the PTO drive chain? Is the clutch going bad? Is the hydraulic pump weak? Are the two symptoms related? I know the clutch is weak. It tends to grind when I put it in gear to drive. It doesn't grind when I put the hi-neutral-lo selector in neutral first. I have some trouble engaging the PTO selector lever. I don't have the know-how to swap out a clutch. Is there something I can check before I float it to the shop or look for a local roving mechanic?
 
There is plate on the bottom of the bell housing held on with 4 bolts that allows access to the clutch. There are 3 bolts that adjust the pto clutch, since you are experiencing clutch chatter it may not adjust out. The chattering is a slipping clutch disk so usually chatter is a worn out, and or glazed pto clutch plate. On a two stage clutch the first stage works the transmission, the second stage is a separate clutch that runs the pto, and the hydraulic pump. So the first stage of the clutch can work fine since its a separate clutch, but the second stage which is a second clutch contained in the pressure plate could be worn out.
 
Hi, there may also be debris stuck
to the plate which does not allow a
smooth take-up. The knocking that
you mention is something of an MR
phenomenon. There may be wear
between the pump dowels and front
pump plate. It does not necessarily
require immediate action. The
dowels retain the pump on the
driveshaft. It would be advisable
to remove both dowels separately to
ensure that neither are broken.
These are the oval plates on either
side of the centre casing. Remove
only one at a time to aid refitting
. If any problems are encountered
the RH side cover can be removed to
assists refitting. It is a good
idea to check the front plate of
the pump where the dowels engage
for any damage. DavidP, South Wales
 
I assume there's going to be oil behind that bottom inspection plate if it's a wet clutch? And if I don't find debris, how do I adjust the clutch plate if it's not worn out? Do I need feeler gauges etc.? And lastly, if it is worn out, will I be causing more damage if I continue to use it as is? I'll worry about the knocking at a later time.
 
You can continue to run it, chances are some damage has already been done. To adjust it there is 3 bolts on the side of the clutch, the clearance between the top of those 3 bolts to stop should be around .080"-.090". Some people will set that clearance on a new clutch to .060"-.070" for initial clutch wear while it sets in.
 

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