Installing stand pipe

73MF165

New User
My 165 was not lifting my finish mower. Long story short, my pump was trashed. It had a cracked piston and some of the rings were broke. I installed a new pump and tried to install a new stand pipe but could not get the spiral backing rings to go in their holes without catching. Wondering if there is a trick to it or some kind of ring compressor to use. I looked through my service manual and could not find anything on the issue. I ended up putting the old one back in. I still can not lift my mower so I still have a leak somewhere. I did not take the cylinder apart, I thought for sure the pump being tore up would have been all that was wrong.
 
The white backing rings will stay in place ONLY if the O ring goes in as it should. I use STP or motor honey on the O rings so they are really slick, they will go into the pump and top cap bores much easier then.
 
Should have put a new seal in the lift cylinder when you had the lift over off. I always replace the seals in the lift cylinder whenever the lift cover has to come off.
 
(quoted from post at 07:31:09 04/08/16) The white backing rings will stay in place ONLY if the O ring goes in as it should. I use STP or motor honey on the O rings so they are really slick, they will go into the pump and top cap bores much easier then.

I used Trans Gel, used for building automatic transmissions, no go. I am going to do some troubleshooting tomorrow. I notice today that my response lever does not seem to be doing anything.

Do you put the pipe in the pump, before you put the cover back on? Or do you put the cover on then stick the pipe down through the cover?
 
The backing rings are part number 195874M1
The o-rings are part number 195561M1. 3/8" inside diameter x 1/16" thick (1/2" outside diameter).

I put the stand pipe into the pump first, then put the top cover on. If you have the draft control speed side cover off (on the right hand side) its even easier to make sure you get the stand pipe into the pump.
 

Also, make sure the 'fingers' that operate the rollers on the control valves in the bottom RHS of the trans housing are the correct side of the rollers - from memory, the rollers need to be in front (tractor front) of the fingers. I seem to recall I used some string to pull the two rollers forward while the top cover was lowered into position - it made it a lot easier :)

If they are the wrong side, moving the levers on the quadrant won't do anything useful.

Once you have that sorted, checking for any leaks will be easier :)
 

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